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Electric vehicles are not tax free at the moment. We need to apply for VED every year or complete a Sorn. Currently the price is set at £0 but if you bought an EV expecting that to always be the case then you're a fool.

For regs he can only have a 100mm gap so for a 200mm rise he needs a 100mm tread. Making a box is possibly easier than solid.

Why venner ? My open stairs have a 3 1/2 " thick tread made of 22mm oak made into a box with a locked mitre joint . These are fitted over short battens screwed to the strings making a very simple construction. With floating you'd need to find a way to close one end of the tread that looks good.

White oak isn't very durable, uk or European oak would be better choices.

My electra beckum badged one could rebate though I never did.

There's a double pulley on the motor shaft driving two short v belts onto the spindle shaft. There's no way of adjusting the speed it's effectively a direct drive. I knew some spindles tilted ( this doesn't ) but wasn't aware variable speed was an option on any of them. It has a soft start so...

I've got a Robland T30 exactly as in the brochure photo . It's on a 16amp plug which is just a fused spur off the 32a ring, possibly not the best setup but it works fine. I've found it to be a good little machine. Mine came from a college that was upgrading to braked machines about 15 years...

Yes

Engineering bricks have better strength and can be used where they will permanently wet. If neither of those apply then normal bricks should be ok.

Motar is mainly used to keep the bricks apart not glue them together. A NHL 3.5 mix will be a direct replacement for a cement mix and is specified quite often nowadays for face work . You can get it in builders merchants easily or get bagged premix online. It's best to mix dry then add water to...

If you want it to look like lime why not just use lime ? An NHL 3.5 lime mixed 1:2.5 with soft sand should do, it will take a few days to set rather than one day for cement but not a problem if you're not rushed.

Span on double header sounds ok. The number of studs seems excessive by a factor of two. I presume the window doesn't go to the floor so you have bracing to prevent racking.

As above, when the power is switched off on a section of high voltage line the section can act as a capacitor and hold a lethal charge. This must be earthed before anyone works near or on the line.

I've just had a look at the angle bracket website, from the look of them and the number of nail holes I doubt they will meet regs for building, you should check with whoever is doing your building regs drawings or the inspector.

You don't want the board making a step in your ceiling so go small, as it will be fixed every 600-900mm it doesn't need to be deep and c16 would be ok. Use standard hangers and notch the rafters to suit ,angled hangers are not readily available.

Concrete is not as simple as it seems and a quick online read probably isn't that helpful. I'd get back to the supplier (who probably does know what they're talking about) and ask them why they specced gen 3 and what your concerns are.

As users know it's essential let the cutter stop rotating before lifting the router or you can nick the jig. It's possible that someone has used another jig to open out your jig to remove nicks before selling it. It has a very square edged opening.

It may be best to not have a frame. Put 5mm security glazing tape on the rafters and lay the glass on that add greenhouse style glass clips to secure the bottom edge then use mastic or mastic tape to fix the bitumen tiles directly to the glass. Alternatively use a rubber seal and glazing bar of...

If you use acoustic hangers you can use less timber such as 3x2 and save headroom,if it's really tight use metal acoustic bars which are only 40mm deep. There's plenty of proven off the shelf solutions for sound reduction and they will all work better than making something up yourself. Using the...

And people will go on holiday where?