Search results

Thanks. Pretty amazing book case, but also the suggestion makes me think. The suggestion appeals to me because that way I could of course allow the rough sawn timber to acclimatise for as long as I wanted, months possibly, before doing this machining/planing/jointering or whatever it's called...

Thanks, that stuff looks very attractive. I mean, nicer than ply in particular. I'm obviously free to Google this question, and will, but what's the difference between high-quality ply (e.g. birch) and engineered wood of this kind?

Thanks... an earlier post in fact suggested B&Q oak boards... but in fact the site says this about all these boards: "Treatment is required to prevent warping and bowing, if left untreated timber will silver with age and move to create a different character". What's your experience been with...

1/3 ... or even 1/2. Wow. So if I understand you correctly, you're saying that even when buying planed (e.g. PAR) wood... and even when you've personally selected it from the woodyard, you would expect to have to plane it (manually or by machine) before actually using it for your project? I.e...

Thanks. In one of my previous posts in this thread I was asking about whether sealing the wood with some product was part of the answer to the puzzle. Top-end doors look so perfect these days perhaps the tendency is just to forget about all this care and concern and "wood knowledge" behind the...

Can I just clarify what you're saying here? You got your timbers delivered... and then did you acclimatise them in your home for a few days/weeks? I mean, before you assembled things, cutting your housing joints? You kept it "in stick" when not working on it: you mean you put weights on the...

Indeed! And thanks for all these recommendations for how to proceed.

Just did some searching on Cedar and it seems as a "close grained" wood it has a good rep for not warping too much. And to my surprise it is very cheap (e.g. at timbersource.co.uk)... though for some reason they don't appear to do rectangular PAR cuts there. But online searching says it is said...

These are all great insights and suggestions: thanks very much. Incidentally on the B&Q site (diy.com) it says this about their solid oak boards: "Treatment will be required to prevent warping and bowing. Untreated timber will silver with age and move to create a different character with each...

Well, yes. I can't quite understand the logic of these places (such as timbersource.co.uk mentioned in my original post) which sell both "unplaned" and "planed" timber on a retail basis... if the planed timber is going to be subject to warping as it dries in situ, ... and then require further...

Thanks. "before machining"... seems both you and recipio are suggesting that even basic use of solid woods is going to require investing in some machine to plane/mill/machine before use. Yes, sturdy would be the thing, so I'll look into that panel and frame idea. Obviously I'm not a...

NB I am in the UK. The situation could be significantly different in other countries. I currently want to build some simple bookcases. I loathe MDF and want to make these from solid wood. Many years ago I tried to do that: I bought some Parana Pine. This appears to have been about the worst...

Thanks for these suggestions. In fact when I talk about cutting a groove for the weatherstrip I'm talking about cutting it in the *outer* frame of a very simple casement frame, with no complicated rabbets as you get on so many proprietary window systems, so there won't be any inner corners...

@Fitzroy ... did quite a bit of research into this and the best brand appears to be LandVac. www.landvac.net. I found somewhere some analysis which suggested that 8.3 mm LandVac vacuum glazing is equivalent to TRIPLE glazing in terms of heat (and noise?) insulation. I eventually found the UK...

I live in a 1930s house in the UK with all the original windows (single glazed). All the windows are wooden casements (although a few are "faux casements": they look like the real opening casements next to them, but in fact don't open). I'm planning to replace all panes with vacuum-glazing (a...

Thanks. Plan to make a router table and have this model router. Why they wouldn't actually give the specs of these little screws in the little manual that comes with it I do not know.