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Hi, I've got an old Stanley #5 (one without the screw at the back of the frog to move it) that I tried to tune-up. So I started with the frog, as the blade had a tendency to chatter (even on fir...). So here I go with my coarse DMT for the top of the frog, and flat it becomes. Then I took a...

Hi, After testing a Japanese Dozuki (https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... hp?t=13675), I think this kind of straigth handle is not for me. So I'd like to test a more traditional Western saw. I'm ready to go for new (*), but would like first to see if someone here would be ready to...

Hi, Here's a followup. Seems the set was indeed uneven. After trying all kind of grips and stances on a number of (pallet) boards, I finally took my blue DMT and made one single pass on the left of the saw. Think it cured most of the problem, as can be seen in the picture below (the two...

Well, I've yet to discover difficulties that go with hardwood... Still playing with fir and pine for the moment, but that's good enough to keep me busy for a while, I guess ;-) I've tried a two hand grip on that long handle, and results are marginally better. But still I'm deviating to the left...

Hi all, Thanks for your answers. I do put my index finger on top of the handle, but I must confess I'm not really satisfied with my grip : does not seem natural at all. This saw has a very long handle, and I don't really know where to put my hand so I'm comfortable with it... Anyway, thanks...

is it me ;-) ? First of all, Happy New Year to all of you. Next, as the subject states, I'm getting a hard time to saw straigth with the only saw I have so far : the Japanese-like (but Corean) Dozuki from LV. Seems the deeper I saw, the more to the left I deviate. And I'm incredibly good at...

Thanks for your answers. I guess I overlooked the fact that waterstones can cut flesh too ;-) and actually I did sharpened a bit of one of my fingers on the edge of my 1000 stone. Guess I'll chamfer it then... (the other stones too, BTW, but it's just maintenance of the chamber, not creation of...

Hi, I've finally bought Norton waterstones to replace my narrow King combo stones (which I found a bit inconvenient). Now, following David Charlesworth DVDs' advice, I was prepared to chamfer the edges of the stones, but it seems that the 1000 grit do not have one by default (while the 4000 and...

Well, just as a follow-up... I gave freehand sharpening a try. Not so bad I would say, even if keeping an angle (I'm not saying keeping the angle ;-) ) is a bit of a challenge for me. Even more when moving to the finishing stone and trying to increase the angle a tiny bit... But overall not...

Thanks David. Now I get it. It's related to the surface to be polished then : the bigger the more important intermediate grits are. I'll buy that argument. While I'm at it, another small question : would an extra-coarse DMT suitable to flatten waterstones ? Is it flat enough and does it stay...

Hi, This might be well known, but I discovered today that my old Stanley #8's blade is tapered in length... Only slightly (something like 6.5 cm at the tip of the blade and 6.4 cm somewhere around the middle) but it makes me wonder what exactly "square blade" means in that case. It cannot be...

Hi Philly, This I do understand, but why then should this medium step be skipped for plane blades ?

Hi, Forgive me for what maybe a stupid question, but in either DC's or Cosman's DVDs, when it comes to sharpening chisels (as opposed to plane blades), a third waterstone (a medium one, complementing the coarse and super-fine used for plane blades) appears. What is the rationale behind this ...

Dear all, Thanks for your great inputs. I guess I'll order a LN replacement blade with my next LN command (which will probably be the first non-DVD one ;-) something like a block plane maybe 8) ), and see how this goes. Should keep me busy for a while. Regards,

Hi Phil, Well, thanks for your input. I did not realized that LN chip-breakers could fit in old Stanleys. No problem at all ? Just plug and play ? Thanks,

Hum, Tony, Alf, I'm confused by your answers. Might just be my poor english... but reading you, I do not understand you're agreeing ;-) I thought Alf was saying that (blade+cap iron) enhance the performance of the plane (which I'm after), while (blade only) enhance the lifetime of the edge...

Dear all, I'm considering upgrading my old Stanley(s) with new blades. Should I go for the full replacement (chipbreaker+blade, Hock) or is the blade (LN) enough ? Thanks,

Dear Alf, Yes, I only get the straight roller for the moment (the cambered one is on its way, as I ordered it to be able to manage with my scrub blade...). Meanwhile I guess I'll give freehand sharpening a try. Regards,

Hi, Well, ok, freehand sharpening seems to be the solution. That was the kind of answer I was afraid of ;-) But looks like I'll have to try it anyway... (or to buy bigger stones, which I'm not really willing either :-( ) Regards,

Dear all, I'm getting a hard time sharpening my old Stanley N° 8 blade. I do have a Veritas MkII honing guide and Ice bear's waterstones (from APTC). Problem is the blade is wider than the stone... The net result I get so far (just trying to establish a primary "grind" bevel on my 220) is that...