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Of course I raised the bevel angle quite intentionally, as the wood has some grain reversals that tend to give tear out with a 45 degree cutting angle. So I don't want to go to a more acute bevel angle. I'd rather not deal with adding a back bevel to increase the clearance angle if it can be...

So you mean without any downward pressure (except the weight of the plane)? A high angle bevel up would get dull faster?

It's been a while since I gave up on this method of working holding...but I think I had blocks about a foot long and 2 inches wide. I secured a block with two holdfasts through 3/4" holes in my bench. Bench top is two layers of 3/4 inch plywood. They were secure at first, but eventually the...

Since I honed the two blades using exactly the same method, my honing regime (or lack thereof) cannot explain the difference between the blades. One blade cuts for 15 minutes and then stops completely while still sharp enough that the edge is smooth and it bites into my fingernail. The other...

Canary whitewood sounds like something else. The canary wood I'm talking about is an exotic from Central and South America in the genus Centrolobium. http://curiouswoods.com/wood--Canary-Wood--CW. It's clearly a lot heavier than the cherry, and I doubt I could dent it easily by fingernail...

Well, I'd like to think that the blades are sharp right after I sharpen them, in which case I have a period of time where I feel a reall sharp blade. If they aren't sharp at that point...then sharpening more often isn't going to help a lot. The only thing I can offer as evidence of sharpness...

Canary wood is harder than American cherry. The latter is fairly soft, as hard woods go. Janka hardness for canarywood is 2200. For the cherry is 950.

At risk of duplicating the question in another recent thread, I ask the question. How sharp does an edge need to be and how can you tell when it's not sharp enough? And do different woods behave differently in terms of how sharp the edge needs to be? I surfaced about 40 square feet of...

I tried to use the gramercy holdfasts to secure blocks of wood to hold a workpiece for planing across the grain, but they always slip after a few minutes. How do people use their holdfasts?

Well, I'm not desperate enough at this point to break out the mdf. Before I learned the Charlesworth method for jointing I struggled to make boards straight. I couldn't do it. Finally I gave up and used a router, a straight bit with a bearing, and the edge of a plywood sheet. I tried MDF...

Table and chairs look nice. I think you posted a picture of the table in the thread I started 18 months ago where I was planing a single edge at a time. Basically here is the inspiration for trying to do two boards at a time lifted from the old discussion: My boards are longer, so based on...

I agree, planing them individually is certainly possible. I'm attempting this approach because it sounded like an interesting and potentially time saving method. As I noted earlier, I spent the vast majority of the time tweaking the edge to try to get it square enough when I plane boards...

Well, I applied a 25 degree back bevel to my Clifton blade as suggested in Charlesworth's DVD. After doing so the plane makes the "whistling" noise he talks about, and seemed to take a reasonable shaving. But when I tried to plane my pair of edges I had trouble. The plane has produced a kind...

I did, actually, but I'll say it again: canarywood. It is generally well behaved, but one of the boards has some tiny knots with swirling grain in the vicinity. I have read that alternating the direction of growth rings is a pointless thing to do. The top is held flat to the apron so you...

Board width is about 20 cm, and it's a moderately heavy wood, similar to oak in density, I believe. I'm not sure what you mean by "holding them steady each time". I positioned them in the vise at the left side and got them reasonably well aligned. Then I tightened it a bit and went over to...

The stock in question is about 20 mm thick, not particularly thin. The length is 1.7 m. My longest plane is a #7. When I did my last project I did a bunch of 1.2 m long pieces and getting the edge square took about 90% of the time. It would seem reasonably close but then when I put the...

The tear out crosses the show edge of the board, so it will appear as a globs of glue in the glue line. If I run my finger down the show edge it feels rough rather than smooth. I expect that the resulting glue line would have a rough appearance rather than disappearing into invisibility. I...

A while back I asked for advice on edge jointing of boards. Some people alleged that I was closed minded because I refused to attempt the method of clamping two boards together and planing them simultaneously. At the time, it didn't make seem reasonable to do that because I didn't know the...

In my case, I would say that lack of time and lack of skill are the main reasons for not making my own tools. (And they're related.) I like to feel like I'm making progress on the project at hand. I'm optimistic that I'll be able to finish the table I'm working on now (started a couple weeks...

Two questions: 1. What is the black material you used for the running surface? 2. Why the large gap between the platform where the workpiece rests and the edge that supports the plane? I don't believe I've ever seen a shooting board with a gap like that.