Scheppach HS105

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Having just tried the Titan tablesaw from screwfix (£99.99) and returning 2 because the pressed steel tops just are not flat in the slightest, and in general is a pretty awful saw, I'm looking for something else. I came across the Scheppach HS105 on display in my local tool store, and for £240, looks to be pretty decent. The table seemed flat (cast Aluminum), the fence seemed rigid, and the sliding extension seemed sturdy. There was a little slop with the miter gauge which I think could be easily corrected. It also has a 'dial in' angle adjuster, which most of the saws don't have, so I was pleased about that.

Apparently (from reviews) it's very loud :( the Titan was much quieter than my other saws, so I'm hoping this might be the same.

Anyone have one? what are your thoughts on it?

I cam across this thread which was useful review-of-the-scheppach-hs105-table-saw-t98262.html
 
Hi TA, regarding noise, i live in a groundfloor flat and my current workshop is the spare room, straight across the hall from the lounge, with both doors closed the tv can still be heard on our normal setting, a slight increase of the volume and the saw can't be heard, and that's with the extraction on too, hth,

btw toolstop have it for 219 with free delivery,
http://www.toolstop.co.uk/scheppach-hs1 ... 40v-p72415
 
Thanks dynax!

I saw that form toolstop, but thought about getting this deal http://www.dm-tools.co.uk/product.php?s ... AIxfslV2Uk ... although there is no power take off on the extractor so may think about that a bit more.

Few questions :

1) If it turns out that the miter slots are not parallel to the blade, is there adjustments that can be made to correct it?
2) If it turns out that the fence is not parallel to the blade, is there adjustments that can be made to correct it?
3) What didn't you like about the angle adjuster? having tested it in store, I thought it worked really well, allowed quite fine control.
4) Was your table flat? (did you test it with a straight edge)
5) Whats it like for adding a DIY zero clearance throat plate?
 
1. the top can be adjusted but the screws are really awkward to get to, it is doable though,
2. the fence is easily adjusted,
3. it was that the handle had to be pushed in the engage the adjustment feature,only a personal niggle,
4. table was flat, but the pull out extension had to adjusted, yes i used a spirit level,
5. don't know i haven't bothered fitting/making one, i'm using a 40t freud blade and the results are fine for my needs at the moment, if i move onto finer cutting i would probably fit one,

i saw that deal too, but i already had an extraction unit from my other ts, good deal though,
 
dynax":3o77sdvl said:
1. the top can be adjusted but the screws are really awkward to get to, it is doable though,
2. the fence is easily adjusted,
3. it was that the handle had to be pushed in the engage the adjustment feature,only a personal niggle,
4. table was flat, but the pull out extension had to adjusted, yes i used a spirit level,
5. don't know i haven't bothered fitting/making one, i'm using a 40t freud blade and the results are fine for my needs at the moment, if i move onto finer cutting i would probably fit one,

i saw that deal too, but i already had an extraction unit from my other ts, good deal though,

Thanks!

I hope to pick one of these up in the next few weeks :)
 
don't forget to get some new blades, the stock one is a 60t, mine never saw a single piece of timber swapped it out straight away for a 250mm 40t, i wasn't too bothered at losing the 5mm difference,
 
Does it have a soft start? The leaflet next to the saw in the store I visited said it did, but I cant see anything online for it.

You also said it has a brake? but this video seems to suggest otherwise?

https://youtu.be/tvIKrl7Qwhg?t=213

Perhaps there are different batches.
 
Hi guys,

I've got an used hs105, and I found the fence not parallel with the blade. How do you suggest to correct the position of the fence?
Sorry for the noob question, but I'm just starting playing with the table saw.

Regards

nb
 
transatlantic":3gw64z8g said:
Does it have a soft start? The leaflet next to the saw in the store I visited said it did, but I cant see anything online for it.

You also said it has a brake? but this video seems to suggest otherwise?

https://youtu.be/tvIKrl7Qwhg?t=213

Perhaps there are different batches.


no soft start, the motor is a braked brush motor, so the blade stops in seconds when turned off,
 
nbwood":ivyzvfgx said:
Hi guys,

I've got an used hs105, and I found the fence not parallel with the blade. How do you suggest to correct the position of the fence?
Sorry for the noob question, but I'm just starting playing with the table saw.

Regards

nb


the fence should be parallel with the mitre slots, and the table adjusted to the blade, there is some adjustment in the fence but that mainly relates to the locking lever at the front which can be altered by a thumbscrew at the rear end,
 
I have a couple of Scheppach saws and am very happy with them. I bought them through D&M Tools, and I can tell you with all honesty, their service is second to none. If your saw is out of square in any of the ways you have described and can't be easily rectified (by yourself) or is a fault, then they'll replace it in a heart beat.

I speak from experience, as my bandsaw casing came with blistering under the paintwork caused by oxidisation. It didn't bother me when I first put the thing together as I thought it was a built up of paint, until the rust started blistering through the paint.

Replaced no problems at all.

The slop in the mitre gauge is easily fixed using a centre punch to create a couple of small dents either end of the bar. Tried and tested method of taking slop out of gauges apparently.

Jonny
 
Hi,


I just took a look the fence is not aligned with the mitre slot. nearly the end of the slot the fence move of around mm 1.5. How would you try to re-align it?
If needed I can post some photos.
Another thing that I noticed is that the riving knife lock is not working well and tend to unlock with the vibration of the saw.


Apart from this I think it's a nice saw.


nb
 
Could someone please upload some pictures about this saw? I am thinking to buy one too, but I can't find too much info at the internet about this. It would be nice if you could take some pictures of the upside down of the table saw, to show us how it is inside too.

As I was searching about this, I saw that Bosch PTS10 has a big drop at price now, as I can find it at 275 euros plus 20 euros shipping from Germany at some of these stores.
http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/Off ... bosch.html

My question is, has someone any experience of both Scheppach HS 105 and Bosch pts10, to tell us which one is better?
At the last years, bosch seems to has drop the quality alot at green series tools.
I have the suspicion that this Bosch is not better than this Scheppach model, because there are a lot of negative comments around the internet for the bosch, but there are also some really good ones, so this has confused me more.

The extended right side of the table at hs105 seems more practical than the one at Bosch, but the sliding table of Bosch seems also a nice addition. There are a lot of differences between these two models, but the real concern is, which one is the most accurate at all?

Does it worth finally to spend a little more for the Bosch, or should I choose the hs105?

Ps: Dear transatlantic, did you receive yours? Are you satisfied?
 
Arvacon":3toqz7bx said:
Could someone please upload some pictures about this saw? I am thinking to buy one too, but I can't find too much info at the internet about this. It would be nice if you could take some pictures of the upside down of the table saw, to show us how it is inside too.

As I was searching about this, I saw that Bosch PTS10 has a big drop at price now, as I can find it at 275 euros plus 20 euros shipping from Germany at some of these stores.
http://www.idealo.de/preisvergleich/Off ... bosch.html

My question is, has someone any experience of both Scheppach HS 105 and Bosch pts10, to tell us which one is better?
At the last years, bosch seems to has drop the quality alot at green series tools.
I have the suspicion that this Bosch is not better than this Scheppach model, because there are a lot of negative comments around the internet for the bosch, but there are also some really good ones, so this has confused me more.

The extended right side of the table at hs105 seems more practical than the one at Bosch, but the sliding table of Bosch seems also a nice addition. There are a lot of differences between these two models, but the real concern is, which one is the most accurate at all?

Does it worth finally to spend a little more for the Bosch, or should I choose the hs105?

Ps: Dear transatlantic, did you receive yours? Are you satisfied?

Yep, received mine, very happy with it. SOOOOOOO much better the screwfix Titan which I returned.

I've only done very basic accuracy tests so far, but it seems very good.

Good points :

- Table is very flat. (Did have to slightly adjust the front rail though as it was a little proud. Very easy to do though)
- Table is Aluminum cast, not pressed steel like others.
- Extension table is very useful! ... didn't think I'd need it, but have used it lots.
- Mitre tracks are robust and accurate (they've actually stuck in 19mm t-tracks which is great for 3rd party attachments)
- Mitre gauge is robust and has minor play (which I plan on correcting with the punch method)
- Dial in angle adjustment is useful. A little figity, but much better than having to push the mechanism by hand like other models
- Not as loud as I was expecting (possibly a little quieter than my circular saw)
- Riving knife can be lowered

Not so good points :

- There is a little play in the last ~5% of the height adjustment mechanism. Which seems to skew any angle you have set. Easy enough though, just stop at around 95% height, or set the angle after.
- Parallel fence gets stuck when sliding sometimes. You have to find the sweet spot. Perhaps it needs a little lubricant?
- Plastic base is a little weak/bendy, but I don't think it'll be a problem if you're like me and will always have it fixed to a surface.
- Manual isn't great. No mention of how to correct things (like the 90 degree setting). So you have to figure it out yourself
- Power button is a little flaky. Takes a few attempts sometimes

Untested :

- Safety Guard
- Dust collection
- Stand

Tips :

- Semi engage the angle clamp while dialing in, it's easier
- Don't use the last ~5% of the height adjustment
- Slide the parallel fence a few inches from the clamp

Overall though, would order again if I need to. Very pleased
 
nbwood":13zgm7vh said:
Hi,


I just took a look the fence is not aligned with the mitre slot. nearly the end of the slot the fence move of around mm 1.5. How would you try to re-align it?
If needed I can post some photos.
Another thing that I noticed is that the riving knife lock is not working well and tend to unlock with the vibration of the saw.


Apart from this I think it's a nice saw.


nb

In regard to the riving knife, did you make sure the knife and base have the little dimples aligned?
 
Hi transatlantic, thank you very much for these info!
I have a few more questions for you. :)

1. How about the rip fence, can you set and go with closed eyes and trust that it will be parallel with the blade all the time, or do you need to adjusting it by measuring both sides everytime, as at the most cheap saws?

2. Does the extension table feels solid? 3. Is it at the same level with the main table? If not, can you adjust this?

4. Do you feel any vibrations?
5. Does the blade run true?
6. Can it cut 90 and 45 degrees without the need of checking always if it is true?


Could you please upload a video or some photos of the inside/outside, to have a view about how it is made?
 
Hi guys n gals (if there are any here)
I'm new here, great forum btw.

I recently purchased the HS105 too, not used it much, but plan too.

I have cut some ply and found the amount of dust coming from under the saw to be a massive amount. What have people done to remedy this.
I am upping the extraction I have which may help a little but ultimately I was thinking of blocking the gaps (or removing the rubber feet and bolting it down) putting a hole in the base underneath the saw and adding extraction to that area.

Thanks
 
Arvacon":50yj56lv said:
Hi transatlantic, thank you very much for these info!
I have a few more questions for you. :)

1. How about the rip fence, can you set and go with closed eyes and trust that it will be parallel with the blade all the time, or do you need to adjusting it by measuring both sides everytime, as at the most cheap saws?

2. Does the extension table feels solid? 3. Is it at the same level with the main table? If not, can you adjust this?

4. Do you feel any vibrations?
5. Does the blade run true?
6. Can it cut 90 and 45 degrees without the need of checking always if it is true?


Could you please upload a video or some photos of the inside/outside, to have a view about how it is made?

1. Will measure when I get a chance, but it's most certainly parallel to the eye (looking down the fence at eye level), and the cuts come out parallel
2. It's solid enough I think. I can get it to move a bit with enough force. There is a cam clamp that looks like it can be adjusted though to fix that
3. Mine is slightly below the main table, I will look to see if it can be corrected.
4. Will check
5. Yep
6. There is a 90 lock, that is just a cam attached to a bolt. But I have set the cam to be at about 95 degrees, and I just align the blade manually each time with a square. It only takes 30 seconds and to do, and I would be more confident than relying on the cam which could come loose over time.

I'll try and get some photos for you :)
 
Nygie":1k8pw7z3 said:
Hi guys n gals (if there are any here)
I'm new here, great forum btw.

I recently purchased the HS105 too, not used it much, but plan too.

I have cut some ply and found the amount of dust coming from under the saw to be a massive amount. What have people done to remedy this.
I am upping the extraction I have which may help a little but ultimately I was thinking of blocking the gaps (or removing the rubber feet and bolting it down) putting a hole in the base underneath the saw and adding extraction to that area.

Thanks

As you said, people generally attach the base to a sealed box, with a hole in the top to allow the dust to fall through. This box is then sealed with some kind of draw to allow you to empty it. Lots of stuff online.

When cutting your ply, are you making sure that the blade is only just above the height of the wood? I've found that really helps contain a lot of the dust. Doesn't really help with other stuff, but good for sheets.
 
Thanks for your reply Transatlantic.
I have seen the box idea online, will give it a go. Just thought I'd check if there were any 105 specific ideas.
Yes to the blade height.
Thanks again.
 
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