Reccomend a rebater.

[Fat ferret]

Hello lads and lasses. Been making doors and windows lately and have been cutting all the rebates with my record 50 plough plane. I made it a 14" fence from a piece of door stop and it works surprisingly well for 3/4 x 1/2" rebates but it's a bit uncomfortable after a while.

I would get a dedicated rebater but not sure what to go for. My jack plane is a woody so I'm open to one of the wooden rebates but can't see how to use them as the ones I've seen don't have fences. How do they work?

Same goes for the expensive metal jobs, no fence to adjust the size of my rebate.

I only want to cut small rebates usually 3/4 x 1/2" so whats the best way, do you have to pin something to the work piece as a fence or what? I can manage with my record 50 but it doesn't seem quite the tool for the job. Lots more doors and windows to go.

 

[katellwood]

if you want a woody a moving fillister is what you want

 

[AndyT]

I agree with Katellwood. The old style wooden moving fillisters seem to be unfashionable so can be had quite cheaply. They have fences, thick skewed blades and are comfortable to use. This sort of thing

 

[Jacob]

Seems to be doubled up this thread so I thought I'd copy and paste this here as well

Wooden skew rebate planes are 2 a penny. Well say £3 or so.
What you do first is mark up with a gauge the length of the rebate, both lines - and also each end of the workpiece.
Then you start a rebate as best you can with you fingers as a fence, well within the lines.
Then you turn the plane on edge and work it back to a line
Then you turn it the other way and work it back to the other line.
Then you square it up with reference to the lines you put on the ends of the workpiece.
Sounds complicated but it's obvious once you get stuck in.

Better with a 78 (also cheap - unfashionable) as it has a fence and depth stop.

PS perhaps not "better" with a 78 but different. You can start it with the fence but it gets easier if you take the fence off once you have a started rebate edge to work to. It's the steel equivalent of the "fillister" referred to above. They have the advantage of fence and depth stop control, but at the expense of speed. The skew rebate can be worked much harder and was the standard "trade" plane, widely used - which is why there are so many still around

 

[Richard T]

Stanley did make a plane to rival a wooden moving fillister - the #289 (about half way down this page)

http://supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan14.htm#num289

It is very like the #78 but wider and skewed. I could have bought one at David Stanley earlier this year for £180 but I didn't.
Veritas have started making one that looks very, very good but has an even higher price tag.

http://veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=472

Probably best (and cheapest) to find a good moving fillister with all its bits intact.

 

[Jacob]

I think the "moving fillister" with variations, 78 etc. are good for small workshops, one offs, etc but the production workhorse was the plain unadorned skew rebate plane

 

[Cottonwood]

I love the little rebate planes, straight or skewed. Incredibly, a few days ago I managed to start a rebate putting the plane tilting on edge simply resting in the fine line made by the marking guage, 2 or 3 very careful gentle passes, then bring it up vertical to continue the process once there was a decent reference. Admittedly the brass sole of the plane was sharp and square which no doubt helped...

 

[woodbrains]

I love the little rebate planes, straight or skewed. Incredibly, a few days ago I managed to start a rebate putting the plane tilting on edge simply resting in the fine line made by the marking guage, 2 or 3 very careful gentle passes, then bring it up vertical to continue the process once there was a decent reference. Admittedly the brass sole of the plane was sharp and square which no doubt helped...

Hello.

And the snipe bill rebate plane was born!

Actually, the Veritas skewed rebate plane is bitchin if you want to spend on a premium one. The Hong Kong rebate plane at workshop heaven looks good too, for a dead simple wooden one. Don't forget, you can also tack a batten to the work to guide the plane, if there is no fence and planing to a gauge mark is not working for you.

Mike.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Just looked at WH website, the Mujingfang rebate plane has disappeared. :roll:

Mike.

 

[richarnold]

For small glazing rebates you can't go far wrong with a sash fillister. After all it's what they were designed for. What's more they are surprisingly cheap for such a sophisticated and well made plane.

 

[Cottonwood]

Thanks for the info Mike I had heard of snipe bill but never really paid any attention to it until now.. I saw a few pictures and so forth doing a quick google. Looks the biz not only to start grooves, but also cleaning up mouldings too? I have 2 moulding planes that work nicely, sash ovolo?? and edge bead, I am amazed at the crisp clean finish they produce compared to the mass produced stuff from Ridgeons or Jewsons. And they are so fast to use as well, no noise, no dust!
Just a thought, could you use a snipe bill plane to start a tennon shoulder?
cheers Jonathan

 

[AndyT]

But if you want to buy a snipe's bill plane, expect to pay a LOT more than you would for a rebate plane. Matt Bickford has done a lot to promote the use of hollows and rounds but by suggesting that the complete toolkit includes a pair of snipe's bills, he has helped the eBay price shoot up.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

I'd never thought of using a snipe bill for starting a tenon shoulder, but I don't see why it wouldn't. I just pare a little furrow with a chisel on the waste side of a knife line. I suppose a snipe bill will do the same.

I know used snipe bills are not the cheapest these days, but I can't imagine they would be hard to make. I think making would be the best solution, since the sole, or is it skate, needs to be nice and crisply sharp. An old battered one might not be so good without re modelling and that would take away some collector value. Not that I'm bothered about radical refurbs, I want my tools to work, but some like the old things as they are. I might have a go at making one when I get my shed up and running. Just another job on an ever increasing list!

Mike.

 

[Cottonwood]

Hello,I'd never thought of using a snipe bill for starting a tenon shoulder, but I don't see why it wouldn't. I just pare a little furrow with a chisel on the waste side of a knife line. I suppose a snipe bill will do the same.

Thinking about it , its probably not the best use of such a specialist tool....apparently the snipe's bill planes are more tetchy than most moulding planes as regards grain orientation, so you would definately need a pair.
If I want a clean shoulder I scribe it a few times with the sharp knife, then with the square held down firm in exactly the same place, run the sharp chisel (choked up grip) along using the square as a straight edge. As long as the knife cut was deep enough, the wood comes out in one long curl, with no splintering or breakout (the square prevets it) Only takes like 1 second to do, no chopping or using hands as a fence/guide.
LOL another strange thing, my marking guage has started acting like a plough plane. The pin is long and sharp, and trails back towards me at approx 45 degrees. I noticed that if I deepened the line, (I always start in "mid air" then gradually ease the gauge down) on the back stroke I could feel the wood cutting (not tearing) and tiny shavings sometimes came out....
cheers Jonathan

 

[bugbear]

For small glazing rebates you can't go far wrong with a sash fillister. After all it's what they were designed for. What's more they are surprisingly cheap for such a sophisticated and well made plane.

The distinction between a moving fillister and a sash rebate is purely in regard of which side the fence references.

With a moving filiister, you get a defined rebate size. With a sash fillister you get a defined body size.

The double rodded metal rebates can be used in both modes.

BugBear

 

[Andy RV]

You'll want a router for that, a big 1/2" one, preferably mounted in a table, don't forget the dust extraction as well, you'll need that, oh and some cutters! :lol: (hammer)

 

[AndyT]

There is of course no need for nasty dusty electric things here in the hand tool forum,

For anyone who's not already found it, could I recommend Richard Maguire's blog, especially here where he shows in a video that almost all the work of making a rebate can be done most quickly with a single chisel.

http://www.theenglishwoodworker.com/?p=1776

 

[custard]

Hello lads and lasses. Been making doors and windows lately and have been cutting all the rebates with my record 50 plough plane. I made it a 14" fence from a piece of door stop and it works surprisingly well for 3/4 x 1/2" rebates but it's a bit uncomfortable after a while.

I would get a dedicated rebater but not sure what to go for. My jack plane is a woody so I'm open to one of the wooden rebates but can't see how to use them as the ones I've seen don't have fences. How do they work?

Same goes for the expensive metal jobs, no fence to adjust the size of my rebate.

I only want to cut small rebates usually 3/4 x 1/2" so whats the best way, do you have to pin something to the work piece as a fence or what? I can manage with my record 50 but it doesn't seem quite the tool for the job. Lots more doors and windows to go.

Depends what you mean by "lots more doors and windows to go", but if "lots" really is "lots" then I'd be setting up a router table right about now!

 

[Fat ferret]

Well I've made them all now. With the record 50. Thanks for replies. Will see what turns up.

 

[Trafalgar]

Hello lads and lasses. Been making doors and windows lately and have been cutting all the rebates with my record 50 plough plane. I made it a 14" fence from a piece of door stop and it works surprisingly well for 3/4 x 1/2" rebates but it's a bit uncomfortable after a while.

I would get a dedicated rebater but not sure what to go for. My jack plane is a woody so I'm open to one of the wooden rebates but can't see how to use them as the ones I've seen don't have fences. How do they work?

Same goes for the expensive metal jobs, no fence to adjust the size of my rebate.

I only want to cut small rebates usually 3/4 x 1/2" so whats the best way, do you have to pin something to the work piece as a fence or what? I can manage with my record 50 but it doesn't seem quite the tool for the job. Lots more doors and windows to go.

I have the Record 778 and it's a masterful-rebater... :wink: