Mitres are harder than dovetails!

[PerranOak]

I've been making drawers with dovetails.

I tried to make a small (100mmx100mmx40mm and 10mm thick stock)drawer insert with mitred corners - wanting a quick result.

I cannot get it right!

I use a shooting board with a 45degree "block". However, the slightest tilt on the plane or movement in the block and wallop! Any error is multiplied 8 times (eight surfaces to be planed). I can't achive such accuracy consistently. Unless they're accurate, the gluing surfaces will not meet properly and the joint will be weak.

How does everyone else do it?

 

[Froggy]

Thank God it's not only me!!

I think practice is the answer.

 

[Benchwayze]

I make these inserts with a mitre-trimmer. (Depending on depth of the insert.) I test on scrap first to make sure the angle is right.

I lay the pieces down on a length of masking tape, with the mitred ends butting. Then I apply glue before folding the tape and the drawer insert into its finished state. The tape acts as a cramp.

Can you see that in your mind's eye?

If the stock is too deep for my trimmer, I use a mitre saw to cut them.

You could sandwich the parts between scrap, and cut the mitres on a band-saw, or even a good saw-bench. Again, use scrap to get it right first.

HTH

John

 

[wizer]

I've nearly nuked my workshop on many occasions over mitres. Absolute bane of my woodworking life.

 

[Chems]

Do you have a router table and a 45 degree bit, a bit one? The only good mitres I've ever done were done on a sled across the bit in this fashion. Came out good too.

 

[jack55]

When producing these draw fronts I found the key was to ensure the sides were identical so I taped the two opposites together and cut them on a mitre saw.

cutting them just a touch over (on the long side) of the line. then used the sanding disk and a 45 deg mitre guide to take them down to the line.

A lot easier than dovetails anyday

 

[PerranOak]

Benchwayze: I do use that masking tape technique and when I cut the mitres accurately (one-in-ten!) it works well. I don't have any machines accurate enough to do it.

Chems: I have but on the thin pieces I get a nasty tear-out.

jack55: it's really carcase mitres that give me jip but thanks for the tip when I do frame mitres.

Froggy: yes, it seems there are more of us than I thought!

wizer: even you! Never!!!

I wonder if there is a "fancy jig" to do it?

 

[woodbloke]

I've nearly nuked my workshop on many occasions over mitres. Absolute bane of my woodworking life.

That's why it's good to get someone else to do 'em :lol: - Rob

 

[wizer]

:sign3: :lol:

FWIW, I managed to shoot some mitres on my test box which where the nearest to perfect I've ever got. So I guess my answer should have been. Make ot get yourself a good shooting board. They're a life saver!

 

[PerranOak]

My shooting board is good for "square" but how to get AND hold consistently a piece at 45deg.?

 

[dickm]

Bob Wearing did an excellent design for a router-based "shooting board" in one of his books Made up carefully, it works like a dream and the original design will take up to 8" wide timber.

 

[wizer]

My shooting board is good for "square" but how to get AND hold consistently a piece at 45deg.?

Google 'Donkey's Ear'. I'll see if I can get a better shot....

 

[wizer]

Here you go. Read this

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/shoo ... 22536.html

 

[woodbloke]

My shooting board is good for "square" but how to get AND hold consistently a piece at 45deg.?

Google 'Donkey's Ear'. I'll see if I can get a better shot....

That looks familiar :wink: - Rob

 

[wizer]

Yes they are of Newt Design from The 'Bloke Workshops.

 

[woodbloke]

Yes they are of Newt Design from The 'Bloke Workshops.

'Blokeboards'...here's:

the latest one, almost finished the mitre attachments - Rob

 

[wizer]

swanky. I'm jealous!

 

[Doug B]

I wonder if there is a "fancy jig" to do it?

Yep, it`s called a Kapex. :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[wizer]

Another 'cheat's' method would be to use a very good quality chamfer bit in a router table. I've not tried it. bit it should work. But you then have to make sure both ends are exactly the same length. I might try this when I rebuild my RT.

 

[OPJ]

Another 'cheat's' method would be to use a very good quality chamfer bit in a router table.

...As Chems said on the first page! :roll: :wink:

I've got to say that my LS1013 mitre saw doesn't do a bad job, even though I'm still using the old knackered blade until my new one arrives.

You can see how these saws (even the Kapex...? :shock won't cut them spot-on every time. If they really had to be that perfect, you're probably better off cutting close to the line and trimming with a shooting board.