Well seing as i dropped myself in it i thought id better get on with it :lol:
The aim is to show how to build a window with very basic or cheap tools (the way i started making things as i built up my workshop and work load ) I will be using my bigger machinery to speed up my progress but i will try and show the tools that i used to use .
To start i measured my old window , i had to remove the arcitrave to get the outside measurements of the frame . My window is 540 mm wide X 1220 mm high and the cill over hangs on the outside by 70 mm each side , there is also a top opener and a bottom opener .
I'm going to make the new window to comply with the regs so it will be rebated to take a 4mm , 16mm gap , 4mm k glass double glazed unit .
First the frame ,
I took some old stock from my timber rack and cut two side rails at 1240mm , a top and mid rail at 560mm and the cill section at 680mm .
(please note the detailed drawing at the bottom of the picture)
I then marked out one side rail and one cross member and transferred the marks over to the other members .
For the side rail i allowed 10mm waste 45mm for the cill then up to mark out the mid rail 45mm and then up to the top rail at 1230mm (adding the 10mm waste allowed at the bottom) and then measure back 45mm for the top rail . The cross members where 10mm waste 45mm , 550mm and back 45mm .
The 45 mm is to allow for the joints . I hope that made sense :shock:
I then had to mark out the mortice and tenons , i hold the tape across the timber to read 120mm or what ever is easiest to divide into 3 . 120mm lets me mark off at 40mm , 80mm and i can set my mortice gauge to those points .
Time to start cutting , i mark an M for mortice and a t for tenon on all my parts as the bigger the window or windows the more parts you have and could chop off the wrong bit . The mortices on the top and cill can be ripped down with a saw as the will be an open ended mortice and tenon anyway .
The cross grain on the mortice holes can be drilled out with a 3d bit and cleaned up with a chisel . I still do this for my frames as it's quicker than setting up the mortice machine for one offs .
For the mid rail you will need to cut out on the back of the mortice for the wedges
Cut the cheeks off your tenons , you could set the depth stop on your chopsaw if you have one but again for one offs i just cut them by hand as it's quicker .
don't forget to keep your tenon cheeks as they are one third the size of your timber so ideal to make the wedges .
I find it a good idea to make sure my joints are a good fit as i cut them and number them if i'm doing a big window as by the end you could have loads of parts that look the same .
Thats it for this instalment . 1/2 the frame made but it was getting a bit late to be banging out the rest of the mortice holes .
The aim is to show how to build a window with very basic or cheap tools (the way i started making things as i built up my workshop and work load ) I will be using my bigger machinery to speed up my progress but i will try and show the tools that i used to use .
To start i measured my old window , i had to remove the arcitrave to get the outside measurements of the frame . My window is 540 mm wide X 1220 mm high and the cill over hangs on the outside by 70 mm each side , there is also a top opener and a bottom opener .
I'm going to make the new window to comply with the regs so it will be rebated to take a 4mm , 16mm gap , 4mm k glass double glazed unit .
First the frame ,
I took some old stock from my timber rack and cut two side rails at 1240mm , a top and mid rail at 560mm and the cill section at 680mm .
(please note the detailed drawing at the bottom of the picture)
I then marked out one side rail and one cross member and transferred the marks over to the other members .
For the side rail i allowed 10mm waste 45mm for the cill then up to mark out the mid rail 45mm and then up to the top rail at 1230mm (adding the 10mm waste allowed at the bottom) and then measure back 45mm for the top rail . The cross members where 10mm waste 45mm , 550mm and back 45mm .
The 45 mm is to allow for the joints . I hope that made sense :shock:
I then had to mark out the mortice and tenons , i hold the tape across the timber to read 120mm or what ever is easiest to divide into 3 . 120mm lets me mark off at 40mm , 80mm and i can set my mortice gauge to those points .
Time to start cutting , i mark an M for mortice and a t for tenon on all my parts as the bigger the window or windows the more parts you have and could chop off the wrong bit . The mortices on the top and cill can be ripped down with a saw as the will be an open ended mortice and tenon anyway .
The cross grain on the mortice holes can be drilled out with a 3d bit and cleaned up with a chisel . I still do this for my frames as it's quicker than setting up the mortice machine for one offs .
For the mid rail you will need to cut out on the back of the mortice for the wedges
Cut the cheeks off your tenons , you could set the depth stop on your chopsaw if you have one but again for one offs i just cut them by hand as it's quicker .
don't forget to keep your tenon cheeks as they are one third the size of your timber so ideal to make the wedges .
I find it a good idea to make sure my joints are a good fit as i cut them and number them if i'm doing a big window as by the end you could have loads of parts that look the same .
Thats it for this instalment . 1/2 the frame made but it was getting a bit late to be banging out the rest of the mortice holes .
