Zero clearance fence on a Kapex - does it affect the dust collection?

[Barry J]

To be clear, I have no intention of fitting a zero clearance fence just yet to my new KS60. However, I have seen many videos from those who have and just wondered if a zero clearance fence affects the excellent dust collection?

 

[Adam W.]

What's a zero clearance fence?

 

[Barry J]

What's a zero clearance fence?

Or similar

 

[Adam W.]

Why would you want one of those?

 

[Barry J]

Why would you want one of those?

To prevent or greatly reduce chip out.

 

[Doug71]

Why would you want one of those?

Some reasons are

It gives more support if you are cutting short pieces and stops small off cuts flying off behind the saw.

Can cut down on breakout but I never really find this a problem if you use a sharp blade.

Also gives you the exact point that the blade will cut so you can line your cut mark up with it.

 

[Adam W.]

Oh, are you getting breakout with that Kapex already?

 

[Jacob]

Handy if cutting very thin slices which otherwise can get pulled down a wider clearance slot

 

[MikeK]

To be clear, I have no intention of fitting a zero clearance fence just yet to my new KS60. However, I have seen many videos from those who have and just wondered if a zero clearance fence affects the excellent dust collection?

I distinguish between dust and chips. In my experience, through monitoring the dust in my shop while I work, the use of a zero clearance fence does not have an adverse effect on the dust collection. However, it does allow more chips to fall on the table. I couldn't care less about chips, because I can see them and they are not floating into my lungs.

I use a sacrificial backer board similar to the one in the photo you included because its fast, easy, and inexpensive. I usually have plenty of offcuts to use as needed.

Oh, are you getting breakout with that Kapex already?

I can't tell if you are serious with these questions, but have you ever seen any powered saw leave a perfectly smooth finish on the edge of the board (excluding MDF) with where the saw teeth exit?

 

[Adam W.]

What, am I not allowed to ask him about his new saw Mike?

 

[Barry J]

Oh, are you getting breakout with that Kapex already?

No LOL

 

[Adam W.]

I'm glad about that, it's a pricey saw. I was thinking about getting the battery version at some point.

 

[Barry J]

I distinguish between dust and chips. In my experience, through monitoring the dust in my shop while I work, the use of a zero clearance fence does not have an adverse effect on the dust collection. However, it does allow more chips to fall on the table. I couldn't care less about chips, because I can see them and they are not floating into my lungs.

I use a sacrificial backer board similar to the one in the photo you included because its fast, easy, and inexpensive. I usually have plenty of offcuts to use as needed.



I can't tell if you are serious with these questions, but have you ever seen any powered saw leave a perfectly smooth finish on the edge of the board (excluding MDF) with where the saw teeth exit?

Thanks Mike, that makes sense, I do like zero clearances but I wouldn’t want to do anything that affects the dust collection and from what you say it won’t. I’ll knock up a temporary fence and try it, thanks again

 

[recipio]

I think every miter saw should be fitted with a zero clearance fence. It makes it far safer when cutting small pieces and lining up the cut is surprisingly useful. You lose the capacity to cut miters on the bevel - unless you remove the fence - but how often do you do that ? ( a 12" saw will allow about 4" vertical miter cut - much easier ) I don't think it has any effect of the dust collection on my Milwaukee 12" saw.

 

[Barry J]

Think I’ll make something like this:

 

[johnnyb]

It does affect dust extraction. Its in the way of the rubber shield. Damhik.

 

[Barry J]

This one looks like a good option, low so shouldn’t affect the dust collection.

 

[Sideways]

Use a precise, steel, square and a knife to mark your cut on the top and back edge of the stock
Align the cut by pulling down the blade and placing the L or R tips of the teeth (ATB) into the top scribe
Cutting with a sharp blade, the knife wall on the back edge of your stock should stop what little tearout you would expect from a sharp blade.
Unless you are repeat cutting off a stop block you'll be marking a cut line anyway so doing 2 lines with a knife is very little extra effort.

And if you need a zero clearance fence for cutting small stuff, where are your fingers and how are you holding the stock ? Don't get complacent, think about knocking up a jig for small cuts.

 

[dgs2001]

I have a 3d printed zero clearance insert on my K60, I can honestly say the only noticeable difference for my use is prevention of the small trim pieces getting stuck under the base.

The Ks60 has an alignment line for the angle finder gizmo (brilliant for bay window skirting in victorian property's) on the base insert and it took me a while to get the 3d printed version to align properly. I will try and post up a photo tomorrow.

If you really think you need one drop me a message and I can print you one off for a small fee to cover the plastic and printing/postage.

 

[Barry J]

I have a 3d printed zero clearance insert on my K60, I can honestly say the only noticeable difference for my use is prevention of the small trim pieces getting stuck under the base.

The Ks60 has an alignment line for the angle finder gizmo (brilliant for bay window skirting in victorian property's) on the base insert and it took me a while to get the 3d printed version to align properly. I will try and post up a photo tomorrow.

If you really think you need one drop me a message and I can print you one off for a small fee to cover the plastic and printing/postage.

Would love to see a pic and if you could pm me the price I would be very interested, many thanks.