Your experience with either the Triton MOF001 or TRA001 router?

[Britman]

Seriously considering getting either the Triton MOF001 or TRA001. Main selling point is the router table lift system.
do you own and use either of these routers, if so are you happy with it, any issues I should be aware of?
I'm also looking at the Kreg PRS4043 insert rather than faffing about making one.

Cheers.
Mark.

 

[Rorton]

I’m a mof user and pleased with it. I guess it’s a bit fiddly switching on and off when under the table, as you have to switch off to raise the bit full height to swap bits.
my table is open at the front so I don’t really think about it, it if your boxing it it in may be worth thinking about.

 

[Spectric]

Hi

Have used the Triton TRA001 in a Kreg table for some years now and it has been ok, certainly been reliable and with plenty of power. BUT in std form you will be fumbling around under the table for the switch on the router which is automatically turned off when you fully raise the router to change the cutter. I have removed this interlock because I am sensible enough to turn the power off safely before changing router bits and to check it turns freely afterwards so no issues with safety, yes I know other routers don't have this feature but their locking mechanism is a manual button so they don't have any interlock. Now when raising the bit fully up use the knob on the router and also use it to rough set the height and then use the through handle adjuster for final fine adjustment.

I am now looking to obtain better and more repeatable height adjustment and because I already have the Triton I will be getting a Jessem pretige lifter, fitting a muscle chuck and fully removing the std collet locking mechanism. But if you don't have the router then look at the AUK routers and lift because when you weigh up the cost there is little in it. Woodworkers workshop has them on their site.

Also if you search on these forums this has been discussed several times before and you will find other info.

 

[Lonsdale73]

Another Mofo user here. I too went for it because of its above table adjustment but hardly ever use it. I like the fact it has to be switched off to change bits. Mines is fitted to a Kreg plate and it angles the router such that the switch seems ideally placed for my fingers to fall straight on it. I tend to crouch down to check the height of the cutter and find it as easy to use the micro-adjust on the (inverted) turret as use the above table winder.

 

[toysandboats]

I've had my TRA in a home made table for about 15 years. Plenty of power but as others have said, it is a fiddle to adjust the height upside down under the table.
Usual advice was to take the spring out which helps a bit but the lift mechanism still fills with dust and needs cleaning every few months - depending on your use.
I don't find it a problem with the on/off switch being out of sight, I just know where it is.
David

 

[Britman]

Thanks guys.
I am thinking of putting it on a separate switch, taken of the current table.
But now thinking that won't work because is the safety feature.

@Spectric I will check out the AUK kit

 

[mikej460]

I have a under-table TRA001 and I'm very pleased with it. I took the spring out but didn't do the mod to the power interlock as I can access the power switch easily. I also have it connected to a separate NVR switch which works very well. The built in, above table rise and fall is excellent and I will be buying a digital height gauge to ensure accurate positioning, at the mo I'm using an old Trend gauge which is a pain to read without reading glasses

 

[Sandyn]

I have the TRA001 permanently mounted in a table, Very pleased with the machine. I have no problems locating the on/off switch or with the raise lower mechanism, it works very well, but it's not calibrated and there is a bit of backlash so you will need to use a depth gauge for accurate setting. It is very noisy. Dust collection works very well. I have an old vacuum permanently connected to the dust port. Note, it's a left hand thread on the port. I had a knob fall off (router), so make sure everything is tightened before fitting to the table. I haven't had any problems with dust in the machine, but I maybe haven't used it enough.
I did briefly use the router out of the table, but it's a monster, too big for me to use comfortably. If you never plan to do that, it's no concern.

 

[M_Chavez]

I've been using MOF001 (Or similar - can't remember the model name but looks the same) for about 5 years and happy with it. I use a homemade router table and the top access to the router lift is handy, but not essential, as I can reach the bottom adjuster just fine. It's a nice-to-have rather than a game changer imho.
A separate switch is a good idea.

I've also had a knob fall off - I'd put low strength locktite everywhere where it won't interfere with the router's operation.

The router is noticeably louder than my Trend, but it's bigger and has more power, so not a fair comparison.

 

[Kinz]

My MOF is mounted using a Kreg plate & embedded in a Ron Paulk style bench, as this saves me the space of a dedicated router station, with the benefit of a large router table when needed. Access to controls is good & I use a remote NVR switch mounted on the bench side to operate safely. There is backlash in the lift mechanism but easily overcome by always clamping on a ‘lift” adjustment. I use an iGaging Snap Check digital guage to set bit height accurately.
Over time, price points & product features change the decision process, so good luck with your purchase!

 

[Argee]

These routers are built for inverted (table-mounted) use, with the ability to use hand-held. The plunge spring is designed to be removed for inverted use, hence the bayonet spring cap. Removing the spring is required for table-mounted operation (see manual) and the spring cap should be left off when a used to allow dust and debris to fall through. Removing safety interlocking is a foolish and dangerous practice and should not be done, especially given the potential for injury with routers. Mishaps occur due to ignorance, incompetence or tampering in my experience, so learn how to operate these machines correctly and safely. I am amazed that this forum allows the publication of posts which encourage such modifications and hope common sense will prevail.

 

[Spectric]

I am thinking of putting it on a separate switch, taken of the current table.
But now thinking that won't work because is the safety feature.

Thats how mine is wired, the router switch is left on and I have an easy access switch which is very handy. When you get to the end of say a closed mortice you can just stop and easily turn the router off and wait till it stops before moving the workpiece.

Triton do state that for table use to remove the spring. Longer term once my Triton is in a Jessem lifter with a muscle chuck and collet lock mechanism removed it will be just a router motor like the AUK and no longer a router. I will also move the speed controller into an enclosure to make that accessable without needing a mirror to see the number but with what I know now I would have just gone down the AUK route, only about £100 difference.

 

[scubadoo]

I have my TRA in a table. Build quality is a bit plasticky and I wouldn't have bought it for my main plunge router. Have Bosch and Festool for that. I only bought it as at the time it was the only option i could find that allowed height adjustment and bit change from above the table -and for that it works very well. Lots of power and has been reliable.
I lost a little spring and knob off it - spares are readily available though and cheap.

If i was buying now I might look at the Trend T11, i think that has above table adjustment.

 

[Spectric]

If i was buying now I might look at the Trend T11, i think that has above table adjustment.

Rather than change the router just change the lift, the solution is the Jessem prestige which will give you adjustment that is precise and repeatable that you will not find on a plunge router. JessEm Rout-R-Lift Prestige (Metric)

Its the way to go unless you want the AUK setup.

 

[scubadoo]

Rather than change the router just change the lift, the solution is the Jessem prestige which will give you adjustment that is precise and repeatable that you will not find on a plunge router. JessEm Rout-R-Lift Prestige (Metric)

Its the way to go unless you want the AUK setup.

That does look great (I have a Jessem table with the Incra inserts) but is expensive and the Triton above table adjustment is fine for my needs.

 

[Britman]

Much appreciated replies.
I do need to update the router and current one is about knackered and as an enthusiastic amateur the budget is limited so spending £350 on a lift and few more hundred on a router is out of the question.

 

[mikej460]

My MOF is mounted using a Kreg plate & embedded in a Ron Paulk style bench, as this saves me the space of a dedicated router station, with the benefit of a large router table when needed. Access to controls is good & I use a remote NVR switch mounted on the bench side to operate safely. There is backlash in the lift mechanism but easily overcome by always clamping on a ‘lift” adjustment. I use an iGaging Snap Check digital guage to set bit height accurately.
Over time, price points & product features change the decision process, so good luck with your purchase!

Are you happy with the height gauge?

 

[bp122]

I have a under-table TRA001 and I'm very pleased with it. I took the spring out but didn't do the mod to the power interlock as I can access the power switch easily. I also have it connected to a separate NVR switch which works very well. The built in, above table rise and fall is excellent and I will be buying a digital height gauge to ensure accurate positioning, at the mo I'm using an old Trend gauge which is a pain to read without reading glasses

+1 on the setup mentioned here.
Difference is mine is in akreg table with incra plate.

Switch didn't bother me. I accept it as part of the experience. I'm not a pro, so that figures.

You could buy a collet extension to change the router bit without having to switch it off or do the permanent mod.

Think of a suitable dust collection. Buy quality bits (I get from wealden)

NVR switch helps a lot.

 

[mikej460]

I forgot to add that I have this Incra insert INCRA - MagnaLOCK - Router Plates - 7518-T | Wood Workers Workshop as it has the hole for the Triton raise/lower winder, It is a bit expensive but top quality.

I also bought their tracks and mdf template which made cutting out the hole for the insert much easier and also a template cutter from Wealden which was excellent. I use the Triton to cut the insert out and I was very impressed with it. The feather boards are clearly from Rutlands as they are double ones that you can separate into singles, so more versatile. The router table is portable, attached to the end of my bench for this year but I will be building a new router base to move the router top onto.

Hope this helps

 

[Britman]

I am tempted by the iIncra but can not find stock.
So at present the Kreg plate is the only other, that I know of, that work with either the MOF001 or TRA001.