Yet more Router Table questions..

[justsomegeek]

Hi folks,

I'm suprised there isn't a sticky for router table questions, i imagine it the one piece of workshop kit that most people build, buy or ask about!

Anyway, i will be designing and making my own table (Kitchen worktop & ¾" MDF), and have a couple of questions:


Can anyone think of reasons not to make a longer table (bench) and integrate my drill press into it?

For the T-channels that i set into the surface, any arguments for/against aluminium, brass or steel. Something else?
A good place to get metal extrusions preferably online if cheaper?

Have i missed any good threads that discussed Table design that someone could point out?

Thanks!
Glenn

 

[goldeneyedmonkey]

I've used Aluminium T-Track from Rutlands on my router table. Free delivery @ the mo I think still.

Cheers _Dan.

 

[justsomegeek]

Thanks Dan. That seems to be a good shop for other stuff too. ¾" alu track it is.

RE the insert. I'm considering making it out of some sort of opaque or transparent material so i can mount a light underneath the work area as well as above. Does anybody have any opinions on this, such as which material to use, whether they have done/seen the same thing etc?

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[justsomegeek]

Ah, i wrote Drill Press. I meant to say i want to integrate the table saw.

I've seen a couple of tables with a saw, but it's always been mounted parallel to the router. As i would like to make long, mostly trimming cuts, or slice panels; would it not be better to mount the saw parallel to the long side of the table instead so that the workpiece can use the whole length of the table for support?

Any reason not to do it this way?

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi folks,

I will be designing and making my own table (Kitchen worktop & ¾" MDF), and have a couple of questions:


Can anyone think of reasons not to make a longer table (bench) and integrate my drill press into it?

Thanks!
Glenn

None at all Glenn. In fact if you make a bench on locking castors, you could incorporate drawers and/or cupboards beneath for router and bit storage; maybe even a cupboard for the drill-stand? Depends on your space I suppose.

Ahh. I didn't see the post about your saw!
Well still nothing against incorporating your saw. You can't use them both at the same time anyhow, so they should live alongside each other no problem!

regards
John

 

[justsomegeek]

Hi John,

I decided against incorporating the press into the table as i think the post will get in the way, especially when working panels.

But yes, the whole thing will be on some nice 5" industrial castors after dismantling an old project. I intend to make a rolling stand for the press in future, same height & finish as the router table so i can also use it for in/out-feed support etc.

Thanks for the input!

Glenn

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi Glenn,

You are welcome.

I was envisioning a drill-stand though. I don't have a Drill-press. Always managed to get along with the Bosch, in a Record stand. as for machines, I have to put them on castors, as it solves a lot of my space problems. That is, I move stuff out of the way when using the planer for instance! The only thing fixed is my workbench!
Best of luck anyhow!
regards
John

 

[justsomegeek]

Hi John,

I nearly bought a drill stand but, like most of my tools, the press was on sale. As with the table saw, i knew i always needed one when i saw it on offer, i just wasn't sure what for at the time.

Like you, i have restricted space in my narrow garage and i have to share it with a chest freezer, tumble drier and the wifes' lawnmower & garden tools as well as the kids toys. :-/

Love your sig btw! :-D

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[andersonec]

Glenn,

Check the Axminster track first (Order code: 951283) even with Rutlands free delivery this price cannot be beat.
With reference to your table insert, I think your main priority must be it's stability, the material must not be able to flex because your cuts will not be standard and will differ with the amount of pressure you apply to each cut, better it be made of 6mm (or more) aluminium.
I personally cannot see the use of a light underneath, this will put the top of your work in shadow and your reference marks will be difficult to read, it will also only get covered by the workpiece and all the shavings that it will produce, better a light above for when you are working down to tight tolerances.
Also remember that the combined weight of your router table and saw table will make that a bit of a beast to pull around.

Andy

 

[justsomegeek]

Hi Andy

I did a search on Rutlands for the code and axminster, but nada came up. I couldn't see it listed in the track section either. Am i barking up the wrong tree? I'm going to need a lot of track for this. I still need to find "U" channels for the sleds too.

So far, i'm set on an A4 sized piece of 12mm clear polycarbonate. Less than a tenner in p&p on Fleabay. So i'll get several for some other tools i want mounted.

The light is probably going to be most useful when setting up and cleaning. After that, i hope to be sitting comfortably feeding the beast and won't need to be close enough to scrutinise every piece at eye level. My garage is pretty dark even with overhead strips and a window. The added bonus would be the light passing through the insert to below which should make adjustments easier too.

The weight should be ok and make it nice and stable. It was a huge 2 person computer workstation in it's past life and was moved a lot for cleaning quite easily. And anyway, i have the wife for any hard work that needs doing

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[Benchwayze]

Hi John,

I nearly bought a drill stand but, like most of my tools, the press was on sale. As with the table saw, i knew i always needed one when i saw it on offer, i just wasn't sure what for at the time.

Like you, i have restricted space in my narrow garage and i have to share it with a chest freezer, tumble drier and the wifes' lawnmower & garden tools as well as the kids toys. :-/

Love your sig btw! :-D

Cheers,
Glenn

Glenn,

I don't stand for freezers-etc in my garage. :evil: Mind you it cost me money for a 'Utility Room', but at least there are two separate 'Kingdoms' the garage was never any use a a garage anyhow. Even a mini was to big to open the doors inside!
The signature is from bitter experience, but I change that now and then anyhow!

As for the t-track, is this what you are looking for?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ax ... for=951283

I bought mine from Rutlands when it was on offer. They repeat these '16 feet of track' offers if you are patient, and have the time to wait a bit. I had all my castors from them for instance.

regards
John

 

[justsomegeek]

Hi John,

Well the freezer is from years ago in our last place. It will be replaced with a smaller under-counter some day. Once i have somewhere to actually do some work, i'll build or buy a storage shed for the other stuff. The garage is useless for a car, driveway is almost vertical and you'd need to lop off your mirrors to get past the ingrowing gate pillars. It looks like the Addams family place from the road.

Yes, thats the stuff i want, thanks. There're a few places i keep checking, but no hurry. It'll be a few weeks before i get to the stage where i need to fit them. It's the "U" tracks that seem to be difficult now.

Cheers,
Glenn

 

[andersonec]

Glenn,
Don't know what the 'U' channels are for? you say sleds but if these are going to be sleds for carrying your work via the t-track across the cutters and the 'u' channel is for running in the t-track then you can make your own runners out of some hardwood, ash is good as its nicely straight grained and tough, using wood offcuts to make your sleds allows you to make new ones when you get a better idea. You can cut your runners for a perfect fit in your t-track, in my experience there is always some play (unless you go expensive) in metal to metal track.
Ref the insert, 12mm will be getting on the thick side for some of your cutters and it may not allow the full extension of some cutters, you may not be able to get enough of the shank in the collet to allow the cutter head to protrude over the insert, this is where you will have to spend on collet extensions (£25 upwards)
There is a very good forum (USA again) http://www.routerforums.com/ and as with most of these forums it's a mine of information.

Andy

 

[justsomegeek]

Hi Andy,

The saw is going to be at the end of the bench (at 90°) so the sled will have to travel across the saw and on, into the bench. As the bench is just laminated chipboard, i will need to rout channels along the length of the bench top and then line the channels with "U" profiled aluminium to match and extend the channels in the saw. There are currently ¾"x¼" alu "T" channels fitted in the "U" grooves of the saw, which are not much help. It probably sounds very confusing, hopefully i'll have a Sketch-Up done fairly soon now i know what it is i want to achieve.

The sled isn't generally intended for cross cuts, but to give me some support when handling long boards or panels. I want to try a couple of experiments with it too. Thanks for the tip to use ash. Would wax help as well?

Hmm. I never thought about cutter length, too busy focussed on all the "must have" features lol! I'll check how much i'll need with the cutters i have, thanks.

And cheers for the link, i'll have a browse there too!

Glenn

 

[andersonec]

Glenn,
Difficult to picture your setup but no doubt you have it all in hand, would definitely like to see the sketchup picture (something i have to get to grips with)

Ref the wax, I have applied wax before now but to be honest, the more you use the sled, the more it beds in and runs free, as long as there is no slop, the thing with using wood runners is that if any movement does occur (unlikely) then you can replace them. I know you say the sled isn't specifically for crosscuts but I have made one and it is a very very useful tool, there are loads of tips on the net but the best one I have found is at http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com click on 'project explorer' then click on 'super sled'. I use it all the time, with a stop you can do repeat cuts at exactly the same length, I also use it for mitres, cutting tennons, rebates, dadoes etc and even to shave off fractions to make a perfect fit, well worth making one and you will be surprised how much you use it. I have also made a small one with the blade kerf cut at 45 degrees for flat board mitre cuts and if you fit your fence at exactly 90 degrees to this kerf cut and your blade set at exactly 45 you can make perfect mitre cuts on flat boards every time, I also have two smaller ones for the bandsaw for more delicate stuff.

Andy