Workshop machinery setup help needed

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stephen01763

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Does anybody know any professional engineers or similar who can help me tune a bandsaw x 2 and help change blades on a record power 10 inch jointer? I suppose I need showing once and can then maintain myself.

The jointer has badly damaged blades of which I have a new set. Trouble is one of the machine screw head is ruined so I have bought a screw digger set to remove.

I cannot cut a straight line with the Metabo bandsaw, and I also have a big American bandsaw that is very old but I changed the tyres to bandsaw tyre warehouse ones.

Location Cambridge
 
Hi, im not a pro but i will say that i had some issues with my band saw when i first got it second hand. A Kity. I spent time on you tube where there are some excellent tutorials on setting up band saws. Like you i could not cut straight. But time spent setting up the guide wheels top and bottom along with the fence and now everything fine. Initially though, at first even after setting up everything i still was not cutting perfectly straight and was not sure why. But after speaking to Tuffsaws and purchasing some new blades all went great. One thing that doesnt come up in to many videos is the recommendation that you keep a blade for straight cutting only, and another for those curves. A blade used for curve cuts tends to "warp" and finds it harder to cut straight after a while. Now i swap out the blades depending on the cut i do. Although to be honest it is a chore and most of the time now i straight cut on my table saw and use band saw for curve cuts only now.
 
Hi Stephen, I live and work in Cambridge too- I don't know any local machine setter-ups. Ones I've used in the past have often not been worth the fees.
You're welcome to come for a chat if you like.
Pete
 
Hello Stephen
You want to know how to set up your machines.... Why not ask here
after all, is that not what the forums all about? :)

It might make sense to get the planer working first, so you have straight stock to do some testing with
Plenty of folks here to help.

Presuming you want to use the smaller bandsaw for curve cutting and the larger one for ripping or resawing
I'd start with the larger of the bandsaws
What saw have you got?
Some are intended to have flat tires, whilst other saws have crowned tires

Here's a video which is a start
His saw tires are crowned, so he recommends what suits the crowned wheels...
i.e the saw blade riding in the middle of the wheels
Do so with all guides backed way off, no chance of blade touching anything when setting the saw up.
[youtube]JowHmdihl-Q[/youtube]

Get some of Ian Johns Tuffsaws blades for yourself
and make sure that you don't pinch the tooth set on the blades between the guides as you will change the set resulting
in a duff blade, and don't cut round stock like a log without a suitable way of holding it securely or it will roll and wreck your blade also.

Good luck
Tom
 
Here are some books to help you. I have the second book and if you can't figure out how to tune and use your bandsaw from it then woodworking is not your thing. It's that good. The Lonnie Bird book is good too but I already had the other so never bought it. I think the last book has info on planers, jointers to us, but I can't find it in my "library" to confirm. If you search for jointer books you might find some you like. I'm sure there are comparable books published in the UK. The other thing to try is to look for the manuals for the machines you have. There might be something useful in them.

Pete

https://www.amazon.ca/Bandsaw-Book-Lonn ... dsaw+books

https://www.amazon.ca/Mastering-Your-Ba ... dsaw+books

https://www.amazon.ca/New-Complete-Guid ... dsaw+books

https://www.amazon.ca/Mastering-Woodwor ... nske+books
 
regarding the planer the securing nuts for the blade can be difficult to access other than at right angles to them. If one nut is rounded over and possibly not completely consider getting a bit of mild steel and forming a spanner to fit very closely. It has worked for me in the past when the nutb was not fully rounded.

Good luck.
 
Bionic Bulldog":1n9qn3xx said:
One thing that doesnt come up in to many videos is the recommendation that you keep a blade for straight cutting only, and another for those curves. A blade used for curve cuts tends to "warp" and finds it harder to cut straight after a while.

Oddly enough I had this last week. I couldn't cut in a straight line and set up the saw 3-4 times. Bought a new blade, set it up and it's all OK. Thought I'd damaged the machine to start with..
 
Wow thanks for all the replies!

I got the damaged machine screw out of the planer and got the damaged blades out. Trouble is my new blades are wrong. They are compatible blades but actually not. They are taller and don’t have the groove for adjustment screw.

I will take some photos of the kit over weekend and the models etc.

I am normally very practical and do everything myself (I’m a carpenter) but these machines have got me beat through inexperience. I will learn though
 
If your using the planer in a professional way (to earn money) then swap out the block for a Tersa block. Plane and simple (hoho). I used to pain for hours when setting new planer blades - literally hours. All those wasted cups of coffee drank in anger. The shame. I bit the bullet and went tersa and I’ll never ever look back.

Most machine shops will have engineers who can come out and set up for you. £30 - £40 an hour plus travel. Won’t take them long. I have all my machines re-aligned and reset every 4 years or so in one go. Your best bet though is YouTube videos, a bit of forum reading and loads of trial and error. I will always say that a good quality blade (and the correct blade!!!!) is key to any machine cutting well.
 
Sorry for the delay in replying, not been around for a few days.

That is very interesting ref the block. Yes it will be used to make money, albeit not full time as I am on site. Just for odd days here and there.

I am going to check it out now!
 
My machine is a Record Power RD26 (Rebadged Lurem RD26), I dont think that Tersa blocks are suitable. They look massive? For big joinery shop machines?
 
stephen01763":2fzdvp44 said:
My machine is a Record Power RD26 (Rebadged Lurem RD26), I dont think that Tersa blocks are suitable. They look massive? For big joinery shop machines?

I wouldn't even bother considering retrofitting a Tersa system on a top end planer, I most definitely wouldn't on one of those Record power jobbies as the block itself (If you could even get one the right size) would cost as much as the machine itself if not more!

There are many videos that go over planer setup and it's a very straightforward, simple job you can do yourself, it's definitely not a £50+ an hour specialist engineer job. Peter Parfait has a good video on the subject:
[youtube]1uXh1fx6JE0[/youtube]

As the others have said, get a new blade for your bandsaw as the one that's in it has probably seen a lot of use and needs replacing before the bandsaw will even begin working how it should.
 
I am going to toss all the used blades, and try the unused after watching youtube vids for the bandsaw. BTW does the guy who sells blades on here offer a blade measuring service (send him old blade and he can see right size (and obv toss old one)
 
stephen01763":pya40c7v said:
I am going to toss all the used blades, and try the unused after watching youtube vids for the bandsaw. BTW does the guy who sells blades on here offer a blade measuring service (send him old blade and he can see right size (and obv toss old one)

Don't throw away the used blades, more than likely they can be resharpened a few times before needing to be thrown out. Professional resharpening is a fraction the cost of buying a new set of blades every time.

Applyby woodturnings (They post here sometimes) sell the blades with the slots for your machine:https://www.applebywoodturnings.co.uk/planer-blades/lurem-rd26-263mm-resharpenable-hss-planer-blades-1pair.html
 
I meant the bandsaw blades! Ps the original planer blades have chunks out of them ie hit nails maybe. Not sure about sharpening
 
stephen01763":y1tod9me said:
I meant the bandsaw blades!

I suppose that was kind of obvious since you did mention "bandsaw" in your post, my mistake.

You could always cut one of your bandsaw blades and measure it yourself if you're going to throw them out anyway. In the past, if I've wanted to save a blade and I don't know what the length of blade I needed was I would wrap a string around the blade while it was in the machine and cut it so that both ends met when it was wrapped around the blade and measured the string while it was straight.
 
stephen01763":l25brc8a said:
Does anybody know any professional engineers or similar who can help me tune a bandsaw x 2 and help change blades on a record power 10 inch jointer? I suppose I need showing once and can then maintain myself.

The jointer has badly damaged blades of which I have a new set. Trouble is one of the machine screw head is ruined so I have bought a screw digger set to remove.

I cannot cut a straight line with the Metabo bandsaw, and I also have a big American bandsaw that is very old but I changed the tyres to bandsaw tyre warehouse ones.

Location Cambridge

Hello. Look at a u tube video by Alex snodgrass, I use this method all the time, never have any issues.

Regards
Ian
 

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