Workshop lighting

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My shed is 8 x 16 and I have 4 four foot florescent tubes. I often wish I had more. The only advice I could give you is put in as much as you can including natural light.

Bob
 
Thanks for your response Bob.

If I can't find out more about Low voltage lighting I will certainly put in loads of strip lighting.

Thanks again.
 
Low voltage is great for lighting objects or making a plain ceiling look good but as a general source of lighting it's not much good - too intense, too much heat. Ideally twin flourescent fitting in a workshop as this reduces the stroboscopic effect.
 
I use low voltage lighting above the lathe, three spotlights on a track. Works well because I need the intense light, which can be directed where needed. One lamp shines towards the bandsaw and helps there as well. I have single and a twin fluorescent light as well in my small workshop, both of which have electronic controls (no "plug in" starter sticking out from the side of the body). These start immediately and don't seem to flicker as much as the old units. Homebase do a single 5' tube for about £13.

Bob
 
The finishing process is greatly affected by the lighting at the time. During surface preparation and application of a finish, it is very helpful to have a low slanting light - not too bright- to check for imperfections that don't show up under more intense overhead light.

The colour of wood and finishes also appears to change in different lights. You can get lights that claim to be closer to daylight than others and these are worth using for finishing.

White walls and ceiling greatly assist lighting a place. I always regret not painting my workshop walls white before they became too cluttered to do so.
 
I would like to thank you all for your comments.

It looks like once I have figured out where my tools and machinery are going to go, I am going to have to spend some time on lighting positions.

Again, thank you all for your input.
 

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