Workshop floor

[Inspector]

Do you know of a site for the recycled tire mats you mention?

You will need to search for, stall mats, horse mats, cow mats, recycled tires and the like to see if they do the same in England. Maybe looking locally for agricultural feed suppliers in the rural areas might help locate some.

 

[jedmc571]

Hi Matty

I looked briefly at 2 products in Costco, I can't really remember the full details, but I know one is on a roll about 6 foot wide very strong rubber, and it's everything proof ( liquid anyway ) the other was similar, but in interlocking tile form, they're American products and designed specifically for garage floors, I might be in Costco tomorrow, so I'll get more details and price for you, but I think the roll was in the region of £160, not sure what the length was, I'll check.

Cheers

Jed

 

[Mattty]

Thanks again for the replies.

Matty,
I went for 2 part epoxy in grey on a fibre reinforced screed & have not regretted it. It`s been down 3 years with no problems.
I have a Wadkin surface planer which is on hard plastic casters, & even though it must weigh 3/4 of a ton, the casters have not marked the paint at all.

Thanks James. Did you need to seal the concrete first? And how many coats did it require?

 

[toysandboats]

Hi Matty,
I use these Anti-Fatigue mats from Axminster and find they work well.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axminster-Anti-Fatigue-Matting--Pack-of-4-363253.htm

They certainly do prevent fatigue setting in even when I've been on them all day.
Another advantage is that the matting is less harsh to dropped edge tools! I try not to make a habit of dropping my tools but it does happen every now and then.

David

 

[Shadowfax]

Dave, You might have misunderstood what I meant about expanded polystyrene. I dislike the stuff intensely because it is such a horrible substance if and when it is involved in fire.
I don't think it should be used as a building product, actually.
I have said this before but I suppose, at a push, if it must be used then please make sure it is covered and does not have any air gaps around it.
Under a floor is probably the only place I would give it house room.
Matty says he has got Kingspan insulation in the floor. Now that is proper insulation and something I would be much happier to use because it behaves differently in a fire situation.
Just my thoughts, anyway.

Cheers

SF

 

[Doug B]

Matty.
Can`t remember sealing it, just followed the instructions from the paint manufacturerer.
It did get 2 coats, the second coat one year after the first, but only because i was given enough to re-do it & because i wasn`t happy as the reinforcing fibres had lifted through the first coat of paint, & although only small they were very sharp.
I sanded these fibres off before re-painting.

 

[Dave S]

I'd never heard of doing it like that (or not taken notice of it). If I don't put the extraction in the floor, I may consider this.

It's certainly quick - I did our double garage myself in a weekend, and that include moving everything about. Paint takes a while to cure, though - as I recall it was two coats with 24 hrs to dry and then a further week for it to properly cure.

Dave

 

[Dave S]

Dave, You might have misunderstood what I meant about expanded polystyrene. I dislike the stuff intensely because it is such a horrible substance if and when it is involved in fire.
I don't think it should be used as a building product, actually.
I have said this before but I suppose, at a push, if it must be used then please make sure it is covered and does not have any air gaps around it.
Under a floor is probably the only place I would give it house room.
Matty says he has got Kingspan insulation in the floor. Now that is proper insulation and something I would be much happier to use because it behaves differently in a fire situation.
Just my thoughts, anyway.

Cheers

SF

Ah yes, I see what you mean. I wouldn't be rushing to use it elsewhere, either.

Dave

 

[Dave S]

I bookmarked this site some time ago. I've never used them, but they may be worth a look.

Dave

 

[OllyK]

Hi,

I have some floor mats from Maplins round my bench http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=217645 they are often reduced to £9.99 and some old carpet tiles the ones with bitumen in the middle every else, it works for me easy to clean and comfortable to stand on.

Pete

Even cheaper on eBay :thumb:

 

[ivan]

I go for 2 pack epoxy, pretty bomb proof stuff. I get mine (Johnstones) from their trade Decorator Centre - now called Leyland D. C. as Leyland bought out Johnstones a few years ago. They retained the Johnstones name for the top ranges. You don't need a trade acct.

A warm, pale grey is quite light reflecting. I also use the stuff on refurbished machines, machine bases etc. They do a fetching dark green. I have an extended drill press table in 2 layers of 18mm mdf finished with epoxy, about 7 years old, which I don't bother to remove for metalwork, still intact and looking good (apart from one accidental hole!).

Catalised leftovers will keep overnight in the freezer for second coat if 'er indoors will allow. Best sprayed for small jobs, but I generally thin to light paint consistency and use a roller (not foam, thinner dissolves it). You'll prbably loose some fibres, no problem on floor, but cut off easily with wet and dry on cosmetic jobs. Good for workshop cupboards etc too as almost scratch proof.

 

[MikeG.]

Matty,

as I said previously, the 2 part epoxy is the route I would certainly take. If I can ever clear my workshop out I will use the stuff on my floor.

I have a big rubber mat which I have at my bench. This is easier on your feet and back whilst standing all day, and easier on all the stuff you drop. My suggestion for a Rolls Royce workshop floor would be the floor paint with a big rubber mat.

Mike

 

[Mattty]

Thanks again for all the advise.

Epoxy paint ordered and hopefully i can get a coat down this weekend. I'll keep looking around at the mat option and try and get a heavy rubber one i think.

Hopefully i'll be able to get some photos up next week.

 

[wizer]

Bit late now, but the new edition of FWW has and article on Epoxy Workshop floors paint:

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ ... x?id=31725

 

[Wood Monkey]

I considered a painted floor, but they are very difficult to keep in good shape and it's still concrete at the end of the day. So I did a floating chipboard floor.

You can check it out at the end of my build post, below.

One year on and the floor is still the bit I'm most impressed with. Still looks great, makes the workshop warmer, more comfortable under foot, is very solid and doesn't eat your tools when you drop them. I wouldn't think twice next time.

Jon
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=21504&highlight=

 

[virtu]

I've got to my workshop rubber mat typically used in Gym floors. 1m wide roll material about 10mm thick.

Very comfortable to stand on and is very reasonably priced. Available at specialiced gym equipment retailers/installers, don't know the source in Uk but up here it's available at www.fysioline.fi