Workshop Electrics

[Dibs-h]

Chaps,

As my workshop build is progressing, my thoughts are turning to the electrics.

The plan is to surface mount all the cables (in trunking - metal or plastic) and receptacles (God that sounds so 'murican!)

Lights - I've got a load of 6' twin tube fittings (free) - what sort of tubes do folk recommend? Also how many are likely to be not overkill?

I was thinking that I should separate the 'shop into the 3 bays and be able to light a bay or combinations of them. Obviously this won't eliminate the need for light at the workbench\machine. Stick the battens under the tie beams or further up in the roof? If under the tie beams that's just over 8', so would be concerned with smacking them with something

In the above piccy you get an idea of the space, etc.

Cheers.

 

[MickCheese]

I would be a shame to fix them directly to the beams.

What about hanging them on chains a bit higher up so they are protected?

Looking really good I must say.

Mick

 

[TrimTheKing]

What about hanging them on chains a bit higher up so they are protected?

Or on pulleys with long cabling so you can raise/lower at will. That would be cool.

 

[flying haggis]

Chaps,

As my workshop build is progressing, my thoughts are turning to the electrics.

The plan is to surface mount all the cables (in trunking - metal or plastic) and receptacles (God that sounds so 'murican!)

Lights - I've got a load of 6' twin tube fittings (free) - what sort of tubes do folk recommend? Also how many are likely to be not overkill?

I was thinking that I should separate the 'shop into the 3 bays and be able to light a bay or combinations of them. Obviously this won't eliminate the need for light at the workbench\machine. Stick the battens under the tie beams or further up in the roof? If under the tie beams that's just over 8', so would be concerned with smacking them with something

In the above piccy you get an idea of the space, etc.

Cheers.

If it was me I would fix one of the bits of timber that you have stacked on the tie beams to the tie beams and then fix the lights to that. That way they are sort of protected by being above the lowest level of the tie beams. Hope that makes sense. Being able to switch bays is a good idea and not difficult to acheive. Others on this forum have suggested daylight tubes for the fittings.

 

[wobblycogs]

Your roof looks surprisingly like our loft which I have just fitted lights and power in. I attached single tube fittings horizonally as high up the king post at they would go e.g. the lights run rafter--king post--rafter. Alternativly I'd consider fitting them along the purlins.

I think there are a couple of benefits to this in your shop. The lights are high up and above anything you might store on the tie beam so are unlikely to get hit and if you are planning on having a light coloured ceiling this positioning should bounce the light around quite nicely and help eliminate or at least soften any shadows caused by the roof timbers.

I've used daylight tubes in our loft and I have to say they are fantastic. I actually like going up there to work on the loft insulation!

 

[sometimewoodworker]

Lights - I've got a load of 6' twin tube fittings (free) - what sort of tubes do folk recommend? Also how many are likely to be not overkill?


Cheers.

I don't think overkill is possible. My experience is to plan what you think will be enough and then double or triple that. Make sure that you can switch them in small groups, then you may have just enough light when you need it to be bright.
Also if a tube goes you don't need to replace it with any urgency. And you can use it to get your self a tan :roll: :lol: :shock:

 

[Deejay]

Hello Dibs

This thread might be useful ...

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... t=lighting

Cheers

Dave

 

[Dibs-h]

Chaps

Many thanks for the info\suggestions.

The requirement worked out to 22k lumens which works out to just over 4 x 6' tubes. As my fittings are doubles - 1 double fitting in each bay should be more than enough - i.e. 50% more. Or I may just go for all out and fit 2 in each bay - fixed long the purlins sounds a good idea. As long as each one is controllable seperately - it should be ok.

Mind you as stuff might be stored in the roof area - I wonder whether anything being stored might affect the light output - i.e. create shadows unnecessarily. I suppose one could still fit them on the slopey bits, just below the purlins as stuff can only be stored in the middle'ish bits of the trusses.

There again it's not like I'm short of wall space for storage. Mind you for a natural born hoader

 

[xy mosian]

Dibs-h, how about eaves level on the walls for the lights? That way they are in front of you at the bench etc., and you still have roof space for storage. A metal mesh affair would provide physical protection.

xy

 

[Mattty]

Chaps

Many thanks for the info\suggestions.

The requirement worked out to 22k lumens which works out to just over 4 x 6' tubes. As my fittings are doubles - 1 double fitting in each bay should be more than enough - i.e. 50% more. Or I may just go for all out and fit 2 in each bay - fixed long the purlins sounds a good idea. As long as each one is controllable seperately - it should be ok.

Mind you as stuff might be stored in the roof area - I wonder whether anything being stored might affect the light output - i.e. create shadows unnecessarily. I suppose one could still fit them on the slopey bits, just below the purlins as stuff can only be stored in the middle'ish bits of the trusses.

There again it's not like I'm short of wall space for storage. Mind you for a natural born hoader

I would go for serious overkill on the lights. I have 9 x 5ft doubles in my (slightly bigger) shop, and sometimes i still need better lighting. I have good eyesight to!

Likewise sockets. I put in around 18 doubles.. i need many more. I suspect running trunking is a good idea and will make it easier for you to change/adapt later.
It's looking very good mate, it really is remakable what you have achieved thus far by yourself.

 

[johnf]

Two doubles in each bay fixed on the purlins looks right to me you can't have to much light I would switch in pairs

 

[Dibs-h]

xy - I did think of putting them at eaves level - but then thought cupobards\sheves etc will no doubt get in the way.

Matty - your shop has 90 linear feet of tube. I have at least ( I think - will double check this evening) 6 double 6ft's - which gives around 72ft of tube - I'm hoping that is sufficient for background\main lighting.

As you pointed out with the surface mount trunking - I could easily extend it, if it turned out to be insufficient or my requiremnets changed.

I like the idea of 2 double battens in each bay - 1 on either side just below or on each purlin - gives it a nice bit of symmetry. Blimey sounds all L L-Bowen!

Sockets - yes haven't got round to them - but fancy running a ring at head height along the walls. Also fitting some of the "commando" style sockets.

1 thought I have had is that I remember yrs ago - at school - certain m\c's used to connected to a commando socket on the wall and that used to have a key operated (in some cases) fat red button, i.e. without the key , the m\c would not operate or in those cases where there was no key - if you pressed the button, it cut power to the m\c. I would like that on a few sockets\machines.

I suppose what might complicate matters is that there is a high likelihood of 3ph coming into the garage\workshops as the drive is getting pulled up after the build and re-done.

3 ph shouldn't complicate matters too much as that will just provide a handful of 3ph commando style sockets in a few places - whilst the 1ph rings and commando sockets would remain and I'd still want the red buttons, etc., as mentioned above.

Once the 'shop is built - I'll probably have to survive on a 13a extension from the house\existing garage bit that isn't being demolished whilst the new garage\basement is built.

 

[wobblycogs]

I've been contemplating the wiring of my workshop to be and one idea I had was to run two rings. Sockets would be installed in pairs of doubles (probably) with the left and right being on different rings. I was thinking this might come in useful when I want to plug in say a monster dust extractor and P/T. Probably over kill since a ring should be able to handle 7.2kW but worth bearing in mind (for example I could imagine having both the above and a 2kW electric heater on which would be more than 7.2kW).

The only problem with this is you would have to make it clear at the fuse box that one switch doesn't isolate all the sockets. I wonder if multiple switches can be linked somehow?

I've seriously contemplated getting a 100A lever switch for the workshop too. Gives a little piece of mind that when you leave for the night you can totally isolate the place. Also means that is something goes horribly wrong someone can cut the power even under load.

As for 3ph, I have it available but I wasn't planning on using it for now as I don't know if I will be staying. What I am going to do though is put the workshop on a different phase to the house so that the house doesn't suffer annoying voltage drops when the big motors get switched on. For some reason I can always see the voltage drop clearly in the site lamp but nothing else.

Hope my musings are of some help...

 

[Dibs-h]

Musing's - it's all good!

I'm probably going to have the 2 rings in the shop - at 2 different heights, it would make sense to have these on diff circuits\rings. Plus the same for the garage basement (metal 'shop) and the same again for the garage above it.

I definetely like the idea of being able to walk out and have effectively isolated the supply - just have to work out (in my head) how the specifics will work for for the 2 'shops (serviced by 1 door) and the garage above by it's own entrance\s.

Lord - the electrics for the 'shops\garage will make the house wiring a walk in the park!

 

[Oldman]

Dont forget you will still want power 24/7 for the alarm and security lighting.

 

[wobblycogs]

Personally, I'm quite looking forward to wiring the workshop since like you I'll be running all the cables in trunking which will make life so much easier.

I'm most of the way through wiring the house which, despite being 200 years old, had never been properly wired. It has required no end of chasing out solid brick and repairing %*$(!! masses old lime and hair plaster. The shop also contains the main incomer so the cable runs will be quite short and not require me to go under any floors - yippee.

Good luck with the build, I'd love to give something like that a go. Your shop is going to be nearly the size of our garden though I think .

 

[Dibs-h]

Dont forget you will still want power 24/7 for the alarm and security lighting.

Good point - although my intention would be to have all security lighting to run from the house and the house alarm to actually cover the garage\shops. But will defintely bear in mind such peripheral stuff! Thanks for the reminder!

 

[Tenko]

My sparky mate has just put 7 sockets and 2 strip lights in the garage. He's also putting in a new consumer unit in the house with a seperate feed for the garage.

2 of the benches built, pillar drill mounted, shuttering on the wall for the clamps next and then build the main workbench. Its getting there and I'm chuffed, the light at the end of the tunnel is getting brighter :lol:

 

[Dibs-h]

Counted the battens - there weren't as many as I thought, 4 double 6 ft's. Rang around for fittings - I'm being offered T8 doubles @ 6ft for around £22, or T5 singles @ 5Ft for £12.

Now the T5's are supposedly more energy efficient - but would need to fit 4 in each bay as opposed to 2 doubles. I suppose the 4 singles would illuminate the bay better - if evenly'ish spaced out as opposed to 2 doubles. Failing that I suppose I could put 2 battens side by side if it cane down to it.

Just thought of what the switch panel might look like with at least 12 battens - :shock:

I could use the 4 T8 doubles in the garage - which will be 4mx6m. The garage shouldn't require anywhere near as much lighting as the workshop - well I certainly don't expect to spending anywhere near as much time in that.