Workbench Top (2)

[phil p]

Hi,

Thanks for all the info lads regarding laminating the workbench top, I think I know the route I'm taking. I seriously thought of making a well, however decided to go for a flat top, and maybe drill some holes for dogs etc.

Could I move on and ask your opinions on whether to have an overhang on the top or make it flush with the bench frame?

Any advantages/disadvantages to either?

I was thinking flush at the moment as Ive looked at some of the Sjobergs (with envy) and liked the idea of some holes in the legs that could allow to clamp lenths, boards etc, against the side of the bench (I'm sure you guys will know what I mean)

Could I nick some of your ideas please?

Thanks
Phil

 

[baysider]

Personally, I'd keep the top slightly over at the front edge as and leg pegs can be made longer to support anything you may choose to clamp in the vice and support on them. I always wrap the pegs in old carpet to protect the edges of the workpiece. From a working point of view, overhangs are good from a clamping point of view.

That aside your choice to overhang or not to overhang will depend on the number and types of vices you're going to install i'd have thought. For example, If you're going to make and install an end vice then you'll need a larger overhang at one end.
Hope that helps a bit.

 

[G S Haydon]

Hello Philip

I'm used to a quick release vice on an overhanging bench top with the vice jaws projecting again. This was always fine for power tool work and a minimum of hand tool work. I then tried using a plough plane on some longer boards and it was a real pain. With only one clamping surface (the vice cheek) I found the wood too bendy and unstable. You can get over this but on my bench build, the apron will be totally flush with the vice cheek. This will hopefully offer better support although I'm yet to find out.

 

[marcros]

I would also go with flush to the front/ I find it useful to be able to clamp things to the front apron. The downside is not being able to clamp to the bench top, which an overlap would allow but this hasn't really caused me a problem yet.

 

[No skills]

Flush to the front. To a certain extent you can get back some of the lost top clamping with the use of traditional holdfasts. Or even add bigger holes in the top and slip f clamps in, I personally would get annoyed with the bigger holes, I drop enough stuff as it is.

 

[bugbear]

Hi,

Thanks for all the info lads regarding laminating the workbench top, I think I know the route I'm taking. I seriously thought of making a well, however decided to go for a flat top, and maybe drill some holes for dogs etc.

Could I move on and ask your opinions on whether to have an overhang on the top or make it flush with the bench frame?

Any advantages/disadvantages to either?

I was thinking flush at the moment as Ive looked at some of the Sjobergs (with envy) and liked the idea of some holes in the legs that could allow to clamp lenths, boards etc, against the side of the bench (I'm sure you guys will know what I mean)

Could I nick some of your ideas please?

Thanks
Phil

Pros and cons - pick to suit yourself. A flush front edge allows boards to be clamped for easy working of board edges.

However, something like a Jorgensen clamp can be used to easily fix the board edge-up on the bench top, whilst Wearing's little
bench slave can provide similar effects to a flush front.

(note vertical aligns with vice jaw)

in use:

(rear clamp is wrong way up - too much haste when setting up the photo shoot!)

A non-flush front's main advantage is that you can clamp stuff DOWN onto the bench, although holdfasts can do a similar thing on a flush front.

In short - lots of options, all with pros and cons. Choose according to your needs and predilections.

BugBear

 

[yetloh]

Phil,

I have an Emir bench with cupboard, drawers under, tail vice at one end a quick release Record at the other, It had an overhang of about 1.5" which I found very useful for clamping down. It also had a row of traditional square dog holes set at the back of the overhanging board which means the dogs don't foul the top drawer although they can stop you opening it, which is a minor disadvantage. The tool well was a big mistake - a haven for junk and shavings - so I have now filled it in. I have also added another 1.5" to the front with another row of dog holes which are a real boon , so I now have a 3" overhang and have found it to have no disadvantages. If I want to add a peg support board to the front which I have often thought about, I will simple screw a another piece of wood to a leg so as to throw it forward, but in reality I have found an open drawer serves the purpose pretty well 99% of the time. I know a lot of people are pretty sniffy about drawers and cupboards in benches, but I have found the storage and ready access to tools I use a lot outweighs what I thing are the largely theoretical disadvantages, provided you have a decent overhang. Another advantage is that all that stored stuff adds mass to the bench, not that the Emir is short of it to start with.

Jim

 

[custard]

If your bench is against or near a wall, so you can have shelves or a tool cupboard close at hand, then you don't really need a tool well.

But if your bench is in the centre of a room then no matter how fastidious you are you will accumulate some tools on your bench, and you will need a place to put them that doesn't interfere with your work. In this instance you'll either need a very large flat bench or a tool well.

 

[Racers]

Or a lower shelf! I had a tool well my main gripe was some stuff was wider than the top, legs falling in to the tool well etc, so I filled mine in and never looked back.

Pete

 

[custard]

legs falling in to the tool well etc

This is what happens when you dance on top of your bench

 

[rafezetter]

a couple of days late but I'm making a portable table saw/ workbench combo and having read this what I've decided to do is leave an overhang to allow top clamping, but in one of the runners I will also set T-nuts to allow a 2x4 to be bolted to it flush with the edge (sunk bolts heads etc) for vertical clamping if and when.