Workbench / Assembly Table (mostly power tool use, particularly Festool Domino use)

[Prizen]

Hi All

The old chestnut of workbench options again..

I have been through an MFT table which I didnt really get on with in terms of accuracy (off the track saw) and losing items through the holes.
The clamping options were great though.

Hand tool use is limited (I don't use planes very often, nor do I cut dovetails etc,) and now use my small table saw in place of the tracksaw.
I do however, have a Festool Domino (DF500) in my future.

I have a small working space and want to build an assembly table where I can work on some sanding tasks, use of the DF500 Domino, and other assembly related tasks. Due to the small space, I am looking to utilise the undertable area as storage (but not for systainers, just standard drawers).

The assembly table will also need to function as an outfeed surface for the t/s.

In summary, some features I am seeking:

• Some dog holes
• perhaps T-track built-in
• Flat assembly surface
• under table storage
• functions as outfeed for t/s
• use of Festool Domino and assembly tasks

Can anybody point me to some nice designs that fit some or all of the above criteria?

Cheers!

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Hi,
You sound like you are about to head in the same direction as me, so I'm watching with interest.
I'm currently re-organising, I should have enough room, but always seem to be moving stuff or falling over it.

Myriad of images, and YouTube videos to inspire.......maybe that's my problem, too many options.

 

[Prizen]

Thanks I should really revise my wish list to include height adjustability. I’m sold on the idea of the assembly table being used for other purposes but then again I would lose the under table storage!

 

[Ttrees]

Not many benches are height adjustable, beyond having hinges for skis like Cosman's bench for example.
Here's one way to do it though

As you can see its quite involved
Might be an idea just to have some timbers to stick on top of a fixed height bench.

 

[DBT85]

I'll be interested to hear how you struggled for accuracy on the mft. We're you not getting square cuts or we're things too long or something?

 

[custard]

The clearer you are about what you make and how you make it, then the more your workbench can be tailored to your specific needs. But if your work is more generalised then your workbench needs to be similarly generalised.

You've already said your woodwork will be based around power tools, so that immediately suggests that a taller workbench is appropriate.

I'd also make another suggestion, one that I find is critical in my own work and that I see repeatedly in professional workshops where power tools are regularly used at the bench, but something that rarely gets discussed. And that is the importance of a bench design that allows clamping from the back. Incidentally, this tends to rule out an English or Nicholson style bench.

Here's my bench,

The first thing I'd point out is the lamp, and how it can be secured in any of the dog holes. Illuminating your work is absolutely critical, doubly so if you do your finishing at the bench.

The next thing I'd say is that for my purposes it needs to be flat enough to serve as a reference surface.

I made my bench so the front section is 400mm wide, which means I could run it through my 410mm wide planer/thicknesser. It's actually never needed it, careful timber selection and the very occasional skim with a hand plane have proven sufficient.

The rear part of the bench is also absolutely flush with the front section for assembly. If you don't have a separate "flat top" assembly table then this becomes doubly critical.

But going back to the point about clamping from the rear. Let's start with clamping from the front. If you use power tools at the bench you may regularly find yourself copy routing curves at the bench, in which case clamping access to the front edge is essential,

But there plenty of times, like shooting or routing a long straight edge for example, small component veneering, or biscuiting, dowelling, or domino jointing long edges, when clamping from the rear is the most efficient option. Then you may want to consider lift out trays that give you clamping access,

You might still be able to use dog holes for this job, but my practical experience is that too many dog holes isn't a good thing and removable trays just gives you more practical options,

Finally, a couple of related thoughts. If space possibly allows it I'd recommend a second, small flat top bench close by for assembly or storing tools and components,

Also a dedicated sharpening station, or use this small bench for sharpening. Clearing space on your main bench for sharpening risks getting muck on your furniture and is disruptive, which makes it tempting to work with blunt tools,

Just my 2p's worth.

Good luck!

 

[custard]

I'll be interested to hear how you struggled for accuracy on the mft. We're you not getting square cuts or we're things too long or something?

I agree with that.

For all practical purposes the accuracy of my MFT set-up,

is every bit as accurate as my Felder table saw,

If you're not enjoying similar levels of precision then, before abandoning the MFT route, I'd recommend digging deeper and figuring out just where the problem is.

Good luck!

 

[marcros]

The clearer you are about what you make and how you make it, then the more your workbench can be tailored to your specific needs. But if your work is more generalised then your workbench needs to be similarly generalised.

You've already said your woodwork will be based around power tools, so that immediately suggests that a taller workbench is appropriate.

I'd also make another suggestion, one that I find is critical in my own work and that I see repeatedly in professional workshops where power tools are regularly used at the bench, but something that rarely gets discussed. And that is the importance of a bench design that allows clamping from the back. Incidentally, this tends to rule out an English or Nicholson style bench.

Here's my bench,

View attachment 95765

The first thing I'd point out is the lamp, and how it can be secured in any of the dog holes. Illuminating your work is absolutely critical, doubly so if you do your finishing at the bench.

The next thing I'd say is that for my purposes it needs to be flat enough to serve as a reference surface.

I made my bench so the front section is 400mm wide, which means I could run it through my 410mm wide planer/thicknesser. It's actually never needed it, careful timber selection and the very occasional skim with a hand plane have proven sufficient.

The rear part of the bench is also absolutely flush with the front section for assembly. If you don't have a separate "flat top" assembly table then this becomes doubly critical.



But going back to the point about clamping from the rear. Let's start with clamping from the front. If you use power tools at the bench you may regularly find yourself copy routing curves at the bench, in which case clamping access to the front edge is essential,



But there plenty of times, like shooting or routing a long straight edge for example, small component veneering, or biscuiting, dowelling, or domino jointing long edges, when clamping from the rear is the most efficient option. Then you may want to consider lift out trays that give you clamping access,



You might still be able to use dog holes for this job, but my practical experience is that too many dog holes isn't a good thing and removable trays just gives you more practical options,



Finally, a couple of related thoughts. If space possibly allows it I'd recommend a second, small flat top bench close by for assembly or storing tools and components,



Also a dedicated sharpening station, or use this small bench for sharpening. Clearing space on your main bench for sharpening risks getting muck on your furniture and is disruptive, which makes it tempting to work with blunt tools,

Just my 2p's worth.

Good luck!

Custard

Could you expand on your vice setup? I have seen various discussions about insetting the rear jaw so that it is flush with the front rail, or not doing so for ease of fitting. Yours is set well back which I am sure is not accidental, and I wondered what your reasoning was.

Thanks

 

[custard]

Hello macros,

It may just be an optical trick of the photograph, yes it's inset, but only enough so that the rear face of the vice is flush with the front edge of the bench.

I originally chose a pattern maker's style of vice because I make a lot of chairs and other curved or tapered items, and I thought the flexibility of a pattern maker's vice would best suit what I did,

Yes, it's a vice that's perfect for chairs or for, say, tapering legs. But I also do a lot of hand dovetailing, and what I hadn't anticipated is that a pattern maker's vice is a rubbish design for dovetailing! When you're doing the all important tails to pins transfer you have to bridge a massive gap between the jaws and the bench. Oh for a good old Record 52 1/2 at such moments!

It's a relevant point for this thread, lay out your working space for what you actually do and you'll be a happy and productive woodworker, lay it out according to an ill thought through whim like I did with a pattern maker's vice and you're doomed to live with clunky work arounds!

 

[Jester129]

Custard,

Sorry but I have to ask, what is that grey pipe 'thingy' next to your sharpening station? Apologies for being nosey.

J

 

[mindthatwhatouch]

Well that's me sorted, I now don't need to make a bench, I'm just going to move into Custard's Workshop!
Absolutely Brilliant.

 

[custard]

Custard,

Sorry but I have to ask, what is that grey pipe 'thingy' next to your sharpening station? Apologies for being nosey.

J

If it's the "pipe thingy" on the left it's a lamp on a flexible stalk, if it's the "pipe thingy" on the right it's a storage container for waste glass, the stalk on the top allows you to break the glass up into small pieces for efficient disposal. I used to do a lot of picture framing which is why I've got it. Nothing exciting I'm afraid!

 

[Cabinetman]

Just a thought, now that our illustrious Custard has treated us to a tour of his workshop (and bench of course) I think it’s about time we resurrected workshop tours. There is a topic, but it’s not been used for quite a while – I would find it fascinating and instructive as to how other people arrange things. – I’m going to start taking pictures tomorrow.
Ian

 

[Avery]

Hello macros,

It may just be an optical trick of the photograph, yes it's inset, but only enough so that the rear face of the vice is flush with the front edge of the bench.

I originally chose a pattern maker's style of vice because I make a lot of chairs and other curved or tapered items, and I thought the flexibility of a pattern maker's vice would best suit what I did,

View attachment 95777

View attachment 95778

Yes, it's a vice that's perfect for chairs or for, say, tapering legs. But I also do a lot of hand dovetailing, and what I hadn't anticipated is that a pattern maker's vice is a rubbish design for dovetailing! When you're doing the all important tails to pins transfer you have to bridge a massive gap between the jaws and the bench. Oh for a good old Record 52 1/2 at such moments!

It's a relevant point for this thread, lay out your working space for what you actually do and you'll be a happy and productive woodworker, lay it out according to an ill thought through whim like I did with a pattern maker's vice and you're doomed to live with clunky work arounds!

Can I get off topic as well?
I'm a cabinet maker looking to branch out. I've made a few chairs here and there for myself including reverse engineering a rocking chair and remaking all but the spindles.
After 20 years of cabinets I'd like to make something less mathematical, more handwork and with less client involvement. I'd like to make a few chairs. I remember a guy I shared a workshop made a few beautiful chairs but never sold any. Us cabinet makers, looked on, shrugged our shoulders and carried on making squares.
At the risk of sounding obnoxious how do you sell a chair? Don't give me your client list or anything I'm genuinely curios how that whole maker to buyer chain would work. Do you make one offs and go into galleries? Do you have a commission list? It's a hard question to answer I can see now... So are you rich and happy yet? I'm joking but I'm not. That's the holy grail isn't it. Satisfying work that pays well.

 

[baldkev]

Intetesting thread, and id just like to put my name forward to be the next custodian of custards bench

@Avery if you discover the secret, let me in on it!! Im hoping to start making and selling bits of artistic furniture and bits so i can be in my little workshop instead of on building sites, but I'll have to make a number of pieces, find customers and get advertising etc, to start to build up a name. I should think it'll take a while.... im actually starting to learn more about wood movement.... most of my work as a site chippy doesnt really encounter much of that, but since having the workshop, its suddenly become very important

 

[Avery]

Wood is a puppy. It doesn't want to be furniture. It wants to be a tree. 20 years in I'm none the wiser. It catches me out every day.
Having said that, the thing that I like is that each tree has a life span. It will die and need to come down. If it's special us furniture makers can give it a new lease on life and in can life on immortal in another form. I like that.

 

[Avery]

 

[Spectric]

Forget T track, not cheapest or most flexable option, I now use a solid workbench top (No holes to lose things) and have several tops that I can just put on the bench top with dog holes and dovetail slots for micro jig clamps and fittings. If a top gets butchered then no big deal as bench itself is ok.

Take a look at and plus and you get some great ideas.

I am looking at a new modular bench to make better use of floorspace and incorporate a router into it but plenty of ideas out there. I liked the idea of the dog holes and microjig slots on a front bench apron, now makes holding a corner square on a bench much easier.

 

[mikej460]

Another flexible option is a removeable Moxon Vice