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Amateur

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I picked up a sheet of 19mm oak veneered mdf for a fiver with no idea what to use it for.
I have always built with traditional methods, m&t raised panels dovetails etc.
Having read so many different views about pocket hole joinery and not wanting to waste this mdf I set about my first ever pocket hole desk for my nephews bedroom.
 

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Just a couple of photos. Phone playing up so problems posting.
Cracking on with a bookcase back to finish it off, so I'll post the finished thing when it's done and finish applied.
I can now comment on this type of joinery too.
My opinion it's no quicker than traditional construction. Although sheets give you a false impression it should cut construction time....but maybe in construction runs of cabinets and the right set up it probably would.
The big problem I found was the weight of the sheets. Lugging them round in a small shop, trying not to damage them and the cutting process.
Everything needs to be exactly square.
Again marking out pocket hole positions is important aesthetically...They never show this on ytube, but it's a time constraint.
I was initially worried that mdf would be a screwing together problem. It turned out that it proved a very sturdy construction indeed.
My conclusion is that I enjoyed trying something new to me.
It does have its place especially for kids bedroom furniture...but as a traditionalist, although it looks ok I would always have this niggling feeling it was MFI Ikea self build, and probably wouldn't have it in a study for instance.
Using extending drawer runners is another cost, but yet again they are made for a purpose and work well for the applicatiin.
My final comment is the actual weight. I'm pushing 70 and believe me it's heavy. I can't remember any chests of drawers I've made being this heavy, even with the drawers out.
Or maybe it's me just old and worn out?
 
Nice job - did you make an oak face frame there for the edging? And are your drawer fronts solid oak?

Looks sturdy - have you fixed the top to the base yet - it may be the photo, but it looks like the top hangs over more on one side?
 
Nice job - did you make an oak face frame there for the edging? And are your drawer fronts solid oak?

Looks sturdy - have you fixed the top to the base yet - it may be the photo, but it looks like the top hangs over more on one side?

Yes the edging is solid oak as are the drawer fronts.
I jumped out of bed to look for a measuring device when you asked about the top..LOL...
but it's on in The right place. It must just be the angle and my cheap phone.
 
Lovely work. Those drawer runners are certainly 'heavy duty'.

I've only ever used metal drawer runners once before on a tall set of drawers for a cd .cabinet.
At the time I got a lot of ribbing for not using traditional drawer making methods.
One thing with extending metal drawer runners, and for designing them into a project is the advantage to easily access the back of the drawer.
I find this difficult to accomplish with traditional drawers.
For things like kids bedroom furniture and As I said CD cabinets its a good choice and works well.
Thanks
 
Hi Amateur,
Some of the winners of the professional section of the annual Furniture & Cabinetmaking mag/Axminster show used drawer runners. They are a great solution allowing full access to the drawer. (y)
I've used them and a great fan
Fred
 
Couple of photos of bookcase part of desk in op.
No idea why two of the first picture posted?
 
Again marking out pocket hole positions is important aesthetically...They never show this on ytube, but it's a time constraint.
When I use pocket holes they are in places where they are never seen in normal use of the finished piece so while it may be aesthetically pleasing during construction it isn’t worth my spending time on. A consideration is that they should be clear of the domino mortises and not too close to the ends but that’s about it for me.
 

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