Wooden plane on a shooting board

[bobscarle]

I have just been squaring up some panels on a shooting board using my Record Number 5. Although it does a good job, I find it very uncomfortable to use as there does not seem to be any natural handholds.

My question is, would it be better to persevere with the number 5 or to use something different? I know WoodBloke (appologies if it was not you) has added a knob to one side of a number 5 but I am not sure this is the way I would want to go.

I would love to have a go at building a plane specifically for the shooting board. Obviously a wooden one. I have wanted to have a go at this for a long time. Maybe this is the excuse I need. I have read various articles and posts here so I feel happy that I have the basics of the woodwork sorted. My big problem is the metalwork. I know the best bet would be to make a thick blade, but would a new Stanley blade (I could get one from B & Q) perform? Or would it let the plane down?

Bob

 

[ByronBlack]

bob, the other and in my opinion the better option of sourcing a blade, is to buy an older junk woodie off ebay, they go for peanuts almost every day and the blades are the old thick decent ones. I have an old blade from an old broken woody set aside for my own project, and I've honed and sharpened it ready for work, the blade is quite a lot harder and heavier than my eqiuvalent record blade.

Otherwise, Philly's your man!

 

[bobscarle]

Byron

Thanks for that. I had not thought of buying a scrap woodie and just salvaging the blade. Good idea.

I have looked at Philys' planes. They are truly works of art. Maybe I will buy one, but I would still love to have a go myself.

Bob

 

[pam niedermayer]

My go to shooting plane right now is the HNT Gordon try plane. It works very well. Unfortunately for my wallet, I've been drooling over a Mosaku shooting plane for several years (http://web.archive.org/web/20040220...ools.com/tools/mosakuplanes/mosakuplanes3.php). I found one of these on ebay for relatively cheap, so I bought it and look forward to using it real soon now.

Pam

 

[Karl]

Hi Bob

I have one of Philly's Mitre Planes - it is excellent. Massive thick blade, good weight, and a nice feel in the hand.

I too found the grip uncomfortable using a metal plane.

I would recommend the Philly without hesitation - and I am comparing it to a Record 5 1/2, a Clifton 7 and a LN No 9, all of which I have used.

Hope that helps.

Cheers

Karl

 

[David C]

I would absolutely advise against a new Stanley blade.

Much too thin for best performance, plus they don't hold an edge for 5 minutes.

David

 

[Racers]

Hi,

I have had to resort to wearing a glove when doing lots of chamfers for the corners of small boxes on my donkey-ear shooting board. Must get round to making a miter plane., or geting a new glove


Pete

 

[woodbloke]

Bobscarle wrote:

My question is, would it be better to persevere with the number 5 or to use something different? I know WoodBloke (appologies if it was not you) has added a knob to one side of a number 5 but I am not sure this is the way I would want to go.

Bob - the plane that I recently refurbed was a Record T5 designed to be used on a shooting board and supplied by the manufacturer with a side handle tho' on mine I made my own as I didn't have a pattern to work to from an original. As David C has said, it's a good idea to stay clear of a new thin Stanley blade but an older one might be better in terms of edge holding. I think that for shooting work a low angle is preferred with a very thick blade, so I would go for a thick parallel iron from an old woodie and have a go at making a mitre plane...it's not too tricky :wink: - Rob

 

[bugbear]

Hi Bob

I have one of Philly's Mitre Planes - it is excellent. Massive thick blade, good weight, and a nice feel in the hand.

I too found the grip uncomfortable using a metal plane.

Is that the Mk I (large, skew blade) or Mk II (small, low angle blade) ?

BugBear (too lazy to search for the relevant threads)

addendum:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... p?p=132469
https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... p?p=202240

BugBear (now feeling less lazy, and more virtuous)

 

[bugbear]

bob, the other and in my opinion the better option of sourcing a blade, is to buy an older junk woodie off ebay, they go for peanuts almost every day and the blades are the old thick decent ones. I have an old blade from an old broken woody set aside for my own project, and I've honed and sharpened it ready for work, the blade is quite a lot harder and heavier than my eqiuvalent record blade.

Such donor planes are perhaps better found at car boot sales; the price is similar, but the postage is cheaper...

BugBear

 

[Karl]

BB - it is his "production" mitre - with a straight blade. About 10" in length (the plane, not the blade!). 38 degree bedding angle. Go to http://www.phillyplanes.co.uk and click on the "planes" page.


Cheers

Karl

 

[newt]

I would absolutely advise against a new Stanley blade.

Much too thin for best performance, plus they don't hold an edge for 5 minutes.

David

David your right, difficult to understand how such poor material can be marketed. Imagine the disappointment when say a young person uses one of these only to find that it needs to be sharpened so often, could be put off working wood for life. What I do find annoying, is that I can buy(not that expensive) tool steel which when hardened an tempered produces a satisfactory edge which lasts an acceptable time. Strange.

 

[woodbloke]

I would absolutely advise against a new Stanley blade.

Much too thin for best performance, plus they don't hold an edge for 5 minutes.

David

David your right, difficult to understand how such poor material can be marketed. Imagine the disappointment when say a young person uses one of these only to find that it needs to be sharpened so often, could be put off working wood for life. What I do find annoying, is that I can buy(not that expensive) tool steel which when hardened an tempered produces a satisfactory edge which lasts an acceptable time. Strange.

Pete - agreed. The two blanks of tool steel that you hardened and tempered for me in the summer are superb...easily as good as any commercial up-market offering - Rob

 

[bobscarle]

Thanks for all the replies. I am pleased to see that it is not just me that finds a metal plane uncomfortable on a shooting board.

It looks like buying a new Stanley blade would be a big mistake. So, I have just been out to the shed where I had some of my Father-in-Laws' tools. And, what do you know, there was an old wooden plane. I don't think it is serviceable as the body has a couple of large splits in it. But it does have a blade. A tapered blade, 4.6mm thick at the business end and stamped "James Howarth". Means nothing to me.

Interestingly, attached to the blade was a chipbreaker. I have not seen one on a woodie before.

So, it looks like I shall have a go at making a plane and use this blade, that is after I have cleaned it up and ground the nicks out of it. Thanks for all the advice it is much appreciated. I will of course post some pictures of the work when it begins.

Bob

 

[bugbear]

A tapered blade, 4.6mm thick at the business end and stamped "James Howarth". Means nothing to me.

A good maker. One of the many good makers.

I suspect that blade will serve you well. You going low angle, skew, both, or neither?

BugBear (looking forward to WIP pictures)

 

[Harbo]

I find using my metal planes (LV LA Jack & A1) very uncomfortable on my shooting board and took some skin off my fingers a few weeks back - now using a leather glove!

I keep thinking about a LN No. 9 but cannot quite convince myself that I really, really need it?? :? Also I have spent quite a lot of pennies on goodies this year and hoping to pick up something rather tasty soon in NYC?

Rod

 

[Digit]

Having made a wooden plane to use on a shooting board I find, as reported elsewhere, that they lack the weight to 'follow through'. I converted an old Record number 4 to take a handle at an angle for easy use.
All my metal planes have been converted to use irons from old wooden planes and the difference is amazing!
Old English chisels are also to be found, at car boots for example, that have a hard steel cutting edge welded to softer metal shafts.

 

[bugbear]

Having made a wooden plane to use on a shooting board I find, as reported elsewhere, that they lack the weight to 'follow through'.

Could you point me ta the "elsewhere".

BTW, adding weight to a wooden plane is normally quite easy. Drill or mortise a space, and use epoxy embedded lead shot

BugBear

 

[Digit]

It was page 2 of 'Smoothing Plane' BB.
Yes, you can add weight, but why bother if a heavier plane is to hand.
The are other problems as well. The vertical running edge of the board can wear quite rapidly, as can the mating face of the wooden plane.
I use a 'Donkey's Ear' board, a mitre board and a 90 degree board and all have a brass vertical running face and a plastic horizontal running face. With a metal plane I do not expect to have replace them in my lifetime!