Hi PossumPoint,
It can be difficult, but hopefully the following will help.
First, I would check to make sure that the sole is flat. Because you have a wood plane, this part is really quick. If these are new-to-you planes, you have to make sure that the plane has had an opportunity to acclimate in their new location. I usually wait a week or two. During that time you can make sure you've flattened the back of the blade and put a good edge on it.
Place some 100 or 120 grit sandpaper on a flat surface. A table saw or bandsaw table or jointer table work great.
With the blade retracted above the sole and the wedge really snug, rub the sole of the plane on the sandpaper several strokes fairly lightly and take a look. Are you getting even sanding scratches on the entire sole? If not, sand a little more until you are.
You really need to make sure that at least from the toe of the plane to the front of the mouth and a good portion at the heel are flat. A bit behind the mouth not being sanded is ok.
There is a trade off here. The more you take wood off the bottom, the more you will open the mouth. That is where the gap in front of the blade to the front edge of the mouth can/will get increasingly larger. That is not a good thing in a smoother.
Once you are satisfied the scratches are covering the important areas, switch to a piece of 220 grit and even out the scratches.
You can move to yet a higher grit if you want for a few strokes, but it isn't necessary.
You now need to oil the sole and or wax it well.
Hopefully, your blade is very sharp. If not, take the time now to give a good sharpening and or hone it.
Place the blade in and the wedge. I do not quite place the edge fully down to the sole. Experience will let you know how far, but I place it just shy of the sole.
Make sure the wedge is snug. But it doesn't have to be really tight. Again, this is something you will get a feel for. When I started using wood planes, I place a known flat piece of wood on the bench and very lightly taped the blade while slowly pulling the plane along with the other, with light pressure on the plane.
Make sure to lightly tap on the wedge after a tap or two to the wedge. If you set the iron too deeply, tap on the toe of the plane. This will drive the blade up without loosen the wedge--at least too loose. Reset the wedge with a light tap.
Stop taping once you feel the blade beginning to grab the wood. Check to see how the blade is coming in contact. Is it grabing one one side or the other? If so, tap the blade lightly to the opposite side and continue these two things until you have even contact across the blade edge. Take a swipe. Are you getting a nice shaving?
Keep at it until you are. Light taps--especially with that heavy of a hammer. Patience will win out. If you can, get a lighter hammer. Make a wood one or buy one. I have a couple I use. One is available from Lee Valley. It has a replaceable wood insert in one end. With moderate use on planes bodies the wood will last for eom time. Use the brass face for the blade itself. The other is an old steel hammer that on one end has a leather face. Basically it's the same as the LV one.
Once you are satisfied with the cut, hold the plane upside down and sight down the sole, holding the plane so your eye is just "skimming" down the length of the sole. Do this with light coming from over you shoulder from behind you. Can you see the very edge of the blade glinting?
Once you get use to seeing that projection, you can actually come very close to setting your blade by placing the blade in close to the sole and with the plane upside down (do remember to put the wedge in snug first <g>) and gently tap the blade into position visually. Usually it only takes a tap or two. Then set the wedge a little.
One of the most common problems I come across with people using a wood plane for the first time is setting the wedge in too tight. Then it takes hitting the blade harder than it should, which lessens the control one has.
Good luck. Practice practice...
