Wooden jointer plane

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

DennisCA

Established Member
Joined
26 Apr 2014
Messages
1,058
Reaction score
211
Location
Finland
Bought a wooden jointer plane for a few euros, arrived yesterday, seller claimed it was over 100 years old.

After an initial cleaning with tung oil and steel wool:
14262406848_f9e3d060c4_c.jpg


I have no idea what role this dowel and hole serve, lots of tiny holes too in the front, no idea why:
14262398990_5411427936_c.jpg


Iron, pretty rusty but I think it's fixable:
14449011715_de055b27a8_c.jpg


Here's a crack on the side where the iron and wedge goes in. I have been wondering how to fix it, I was considring getting some glue into the crack and clamp it shut, then drill a hole and ram a glue covered dowel into it for good measure. No idea if that's a viable solution or not.
14262411908_34be5c33de_c.jpg


There's an insert in the sole, it has nails sticking out. Looks like they first put it in with nails that they cut the heads of, then someone hammered more nails in afterward. The nails protrude so this is pretty useless as is. I am thinking I'll have to make a new insert, not sure whats the best way to attach it. Just gluing it in place, or using dowels again.

Perhaps screws that are deeply countersunk into the insert?
14447893314_70ee83568e_c.jpg
 
The 'dowel' is a striking button. You hit it when you want to raise the iron. It should be glued into the hole so its end is clear of the top surface.

Tiny holes look like old worm. Fill with wax or just ignore.

Yes, iron looks saveable. I'd scrape off loose rust then use citric acid.

The mouth patch should have just been glued. I suggest you remove all nails and the old patch then glue in a new one with wood slightly thicker than you need then plane down flush once the glue has set. Use hide glue so your repair is reversible.

As for the crack on the cheek, try it as it is before trying to fix it. The iron may well hold ok as it is.

A bit more work than some examples, but there should be a few more years of use in it!
 
I sure hope so, this is what I'll have to joint with for some time into the future. Also got a Stanley Bailey No.3 plane with a corrugated bottom, and I can feel/see the sole is warped, high spots on the front and back corners, hopefully I can get them down, need to buy sandpaper...

I was wondering how to plane this long plane, someone said to simply run it over a power jointer but I don't have one.
 
I have doubts whether this plane is salvageable. The mouth has already been repaired once (or more) and those look like nails not screws holding the Dutchman down. It needs to be removed and replaced as the mouth is enormous.

The main problem, however, is the broken cheek. These are notoriously difficult to repair. The crack there will allow the side to flex, and the wedge (and therefore the blade) will not be held firmly. Striking the wedge will further stress the cheek.

You can try and epoxy it together. See if this holds. It may only do so for a while.

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
I have doubts whether this plane is salvageable. The mouth has already been repaired once (or more) and those look like nails not screws holding the Dutchman down. It needs to be removed and replaced as the mouth is enormous.

The main problem, however, is the broken cheek. These are notoriously difficult to repair. The crack there will allow the side to flex, and the wedge (and therefore the blade) will not be held firmly. Striking the wedge will further stress the cheek.

You can try and epoxy it together. See if this holds. It may only do so for a while.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I think if worst comes to worst, a wooden screw could be made to hold the cheek in place + epoxy, think that will hold more solid than the wood ever did. I'm gonna make a new dutchman too, that doesn't look so bad to me honestly.
 
Back
Top