Woodcut Tru-Grind problem

[Lightweeder]

Because I'm a weak (old) female, with a touch of arthritis, I can't tighten the wheel on my Tru-Grind. I'm using a wrench, which is chewing the wheel up, so I'm not as quick to sharpen my tools as I might be. I've e-mailed Woodcut but they haven't responded. I'll buy a new system if necessary, but I wondered if anyone could suggest anything.

 

[Paul.J]

Have you contacted Phil Irons
Any chance of a piccy of the problem :?:

 

[CHJ]

Turn yourself a larger knob, possibly with finger groves in the periphery, in beech or similar to be a tight push fit on the existing knob.
Bond it on with epoxy.

Or possibly modify to use a Locking Handle something like this <<<link

 

[Lightweeder]

Chas - trouble is, it has to turn through its own housing.

Paul - you can see how worn the wheel's becoming.



I'm thinking of some sort of little tommy bar, if I can drill a hole in the wheel. I'll also try contacting Phil Irons. Thanks to both of you.

 

[Paul.J]

Here is the video clip of the Trugrind in use,and it looks to have a different wheel on to yours.Not that that's of any use to you,as it looks cased in.
It looks like you are putting a lot of pressure on when tightening,is that amount necessary :?:
Perhaps a rubber or leather packer in between might help grip a little better.
I think looking at your wheel that the tommy bar is a good solution but i would drill a series of holes marked out where you tighten the wheel the most on differing tools and see which holes line up with each particular tool.If you see what i mean :?
If the wheel is brass be careful as if the holes are too close it will break easily.
But Chas is the engineer and am sure he will have a better solution

 

[CHJ]

If it was on my workbench I would replace the studding with a bolt from the top (with appropriate knob or handle) and a fixed (square) threaded plate instead of the rotating nut.

 

[Lightweeder]

Paul - I know Duncan's Tru-Grind has a different wheel from mine. I'm guessing mine is the 'improved' version, as it's newer than his. I couldn't get any purchase on that one either though. I think I've got it tight, then it works loose when it meets the grinding wheel.

Chas - would the plate have to be threaded, or would it be OK if it just had a hole in it to keep the studding in place? Then I could use a butterfly nut.

 

[CHJ]

Have to be threaded, oversized Nut in effect. A wing nut on the existing thread would work in the opposite direction.

Can you remove the existing Thread and Nut Wheel from the housing? I presume there is some form of retention in the clamping plate.

We have postal delivery here.

 

[Lightweeder]

It comes to bits Chas. The studding looks as though it could be knocked out. As you say, however, the wing would have to have an opposite thread, and it would have to be very large, which would mean more work with the hacksaw. I don't think its worth it. It's such a mess now, maybe the tommy bar option would be the best.

 

[CHJ]

We are talking cross purposes LW, A 'standard' Bolt format fed from the top with a captive nut plate where your existing tumb nut is now.

The knob/lever on the bolt head could be any shape or size you can manage.

In effect making it work the same as this:
___

 

[duncanh]

I have 2 - one has the same knob as LW and one has the same as the video.
I think the one in the video is the old style and I much prefer it. The newer one is harder to tighten.
I'm off out to the shed now so I'll investigate replacing the new know.

 

[Lightweeder]

I have 2 - one has the same knob as LW and one has the same as the video.
I think the one in the video is the old style and I much prefer it. The newer one is harder to tighten.
I'm off out to the shed now so I'll investigate replacing the new know.

One of each :shock:

 

[Mulgabill]

Hi LW!
I have same problem with the two TrueGrind Jigs I have . I will watch this thread with interest.

 

[duncanh]

I have 2 - one has the same knob as LW and one has the same as the video.
I think the one in the video is the old style and I much prefer it. The newer one is harder to tighten.
I'm off out to the shed now so I'll investigate replacing the new know.

One of each :shock:

Someone was selling one at a decent price and I thought it would be useful to have 2 set up each with different angles.

I've had a look at the problem knob :shock: and for some reason they used a reverse thread so it's not just a question of replacing the knob with something better.
As far as I can tell the options are :-
1) cut the knob down a bit so it's not as wide and then embed it in a wooden/metal disc with a knurled edge like the original jig
2) completely replace the knob, threaded rod and plate with something else.

Option 1 is probably easier but I'm not sure I can be bothered.

May if we all contact Woodcut they'll realise that they have a design issue and do something about it. Alternatively we could sign up on their website and put in some reviews of the jig

I also have a issue with the base part - if you roll the tool holder to 90degrees then it's foot tends to come out of the socket. This didn't happen on the original design because the socket was angled.

 

[Lightweeder]

Chas - that's more or less what I need, and I suppose it could be done, if I could get some reverse threaded studding and saw off a couple of high lugs on the housing. I'm really not sure it's worth it.

Russell - I'm going to take Paul and Duncan's suggestion and email Phil Irons. Why don't you pick it up also.

Duncan - hope you're OK at the moment. I've also got the problem of the foot coming out of the socket.

I'm minded to get something else, though don't feel like spending Sorby money. Any suggestions anyone ?

 

[dannykaye]

if you can get it to me I should be able to modify it for you

 

[Deejay]

Mornin' LW

"it works loose when it meets the grinding wheel"

I've had the same problem with one particular gouge.

Drilling radial holes for a tommy bar sounds like a good idea, but a simpler solution is to tighten the nut.

I tighten it as much as I can by hand and then hold the edge of one of the 'fingers' against the edge of a block of wood and give the housing a tap with the side of my fist. Alternatively, you could whack the 'finger' with a wooden drift.

Worth a try?

Cheers

Dave

 

[Lightweeder]

if you can get it to me I should be able to modify it for you

Danny, that's really decent of you. I appreciate it. I'm in communication with Phil Irons (who hasn't entirely understood the problem) at the moment, so I'll wait to see if he can suggest anything.

Deejay - I'll give it a try, but there's not that much finger sticking out. Just been thinking. If I drill a hole in the side of my workbench and locate a 'finger' in it, I could then womp it with a wooden mallet.

 

[Mulgabill]

LW, I sent off an email to Woodcut and we will see if I get a reply?

 

[Lightweeder]

LW, I sent off an email to Woodcut and we will see if I get a reply?

Mulgabill - not sure how to post a link, but this www.philironswoodturning.co.uk is the address Paul gave us and he does respond. He's the sole UK dealer for Woodcut.