wood suitable for garden furniture

[LarryS.]

hi all,

planning to repair an existing garden bench (broken slats). My new planer / thicknesser and bandsaw turn up on monday so its an excuse just to use them.

Can you recommend which wood would be best to use and how (if at all) I should finish / treat it ?

In B&Q today I saw most of the furniture was made out of teak, so is this the best ? (I need to source it from yandles whatever it is)

 

[OPJ]

Hi Paul,

Don't think you're going to have much luck finding new Teak anywhere! Have you got any photo's of the existing furniture? Iroko is a popular choice for outdoor stuff. But the dust is something to watch out for... Then again, Teak would only go and destroy your new planer knives!

Yandles would probably be a good place to look, yes, but don't forget good old Interesting Timbers! :wink:

 

[LarryS.]

the existing furniture is a simple garden bench (cast iron ends i think) with some wooden slats across between them. If teak is impossible to find and iroko is leathal what could I get hold of that won't kill me !

 

[OPJ]

Sapele is the other one that spings to my mind; a dark red-brown in colour, used as a common substitute for mahogany. Not too expensive and fairly easy to work. The grain can wonder of a bit on some lengths.

Another one that's commonly used by joiners idigbo, which I think you would find at Oscar Windebanks' - commonly referred to ask "poor man's Teak" though. Never worked with or come in to contact with that myself.

I'm guessing oak is too light for what you want...

As for finishing, people commonly use linseed oil (boiled, not raw) or good old Teak Oil (no Paul, it's not a stain! ), which you can buy at B&Q or anywhere.

 

[Jake]

You do have to be sensitive to Iroko to have a problem with it - it's never bothered me in the slightest. It seems to be getting an exaggerated reputation around here of being a deadly poison to all and sundry.

 

[LarryS.]

thanks olly, i take it that oak wouldn't be strong enough ? (current slats are about 3/4 inch thick and 6 foot long, 2 1/2 inches wide)

sapele may be a winner, i've seen that in yandles and I also think I've seen the idigbo there too

failing all that I could try pine as a test run for the project and my p/t and bandsaw

 

[OPJ]

That's very true but I feel people should always be aware of the precautions. The fact is that you can use it once or twice, and you'll feel fine. But, some day, further down the line, that's when it will suddenly hit you! :?

As with circular saws, you can never be too careful with Iroko! :wink:

 

[LarryS.]

You do have to be sensitive to Iroko to have a problem with it - it's never bothered me in the slightest. It seems to be getting an exaggerated reputation around here of being a deadly poison to all and sundry.

then perhaps i should give it a go (at least for this project)

 

[PowerTool]

Idigbo is quite light,and a bit "wooly" - quite commonly used for window frames,but not sure it would be suitable for outdoor furniture.

I refurbed a couple of benches about two years ago for my ex-wifes pub - used reclaimed timber from silicon ore containers from Brazil (so it was probably some sort of Brazilian hardwood,and it was free ) and painted it with Ronseal woodstain,to match the rest of the beer garden furniture.

Before:-

After:-

Still look good,and get constant use - pity you don't live nearer,as I've got loads of timber left..

Andrew

 

[Jake]

It's no different from all sorts of (especially) tropical hardwoods. I have no reaction to iroko and have used it, over the years, many many times and still nothing.

I get a slight sniffle at whatever that rubbish is they make Brazilian WBP ply from. That's my worst ever allergenic experience.

 

[OPJ]

Another dark hardwood on the Yandles site is Padauk. It's quite reasonably priced although I don't know of its resistance properties against the elements.

I'm quite sure oak would be strong enough at those dimensions, but I thought you might have been after something darker, that's all?

It may even pay for you to clean up and take a damaged length down there with you, so you can get a good match for the grain as well.

 

[motownmartin]

You do have to be sensitive to Iroko to have a problem with it - it's never bothered me in the slightest. It seems to be getting an exaggerated reputation around here of being a deadly poison to all and sundry.

Maybe some may have exaggerated and it nhasn't affected me but it has affected a friend of mine, he is at the moment feeling quite sore and trying to grow some new skin :lol: seriously though as Jake says it doesn't affect everybody.

 

[LarryS.]

thats exactly the type of bench I have to refurb, wood looks great, i just need to find something similar that i can source locally. sounds like iroko is the winner so far. My choices are probably limited to what yandles can supply :

http://www.yandles.co.uk/planks.html

 

[LarryS.]

Another dark hardwood on the Yandles site is Padauk. It's quite reasonably priced although I don't know of its resistance properties against the elements.

I'm quite sure oak would be strong enough at those dimensions, but I thought you might have been after something darker, that's all?

It may even pay for you to clean up and take a damaged length down there with you, so you can get a good match for the grain as well.

looks like i need to find a book that describes what wood is suitable for what. yet another area of woodworking that is more complicated when I get into the detail

Oak may be ok but take your point on the colour, could be tempted to make new sides out of oak also (means I get to test the bandsaw) !

 

[TheTiddles]

The stuff in B&Q is very unlikely to be teak, there are a lot of woods that are dark, slightly oily and totally suitable for garden furniture, teak is just one of them, probably the nicest but it's extremely expensive. You can get it easily enough, try Bamptons in Southampton, they supply to yacht builders so it's stock for them. Very few makers are still using teak for garden furniture, you can normally tell from the cost of it, a chair should be setting you back about £400. I used to deliver the stuff and people would order a set of chairs and a table for £3000, nicer than injection-moulded PVC admittedly.

Iroko does not kill on contact, you may be allergic to it, and rosewood, furniture wax, adhesives, the plastic in your powertool grips, the list is long and tedious. Take precautions like you would with any dust, if you get a reaction, don't use it.

Matching one wood to another is never easy, even if it's the same type, some iroko is dark brown, almost black, very green, yellow etc... Are you sure decent quality pine wouldn't do?

Aidan

 

[Rich]

Norm uses cypress on occasions.

Rich.

 

[motownmartin]

Norm uses cypress on occasions.

Rich.

I think this is what park benches are made from, can't be sure though

 

[LarryS.]

The stuff in B&Q is very unlikely to be teak, there are a lot of woods that are dark, slightly oily and totally suitable for garden furniture, teak is just one of them, probably the nicest but it's extremely expensive. You can get it easily enough, try Bamptons in Southampton, they supply to yacht builders so it's stock for them. Very few makers are still using teak for garden furniture, you can normally tell from the cost of it, a chair should be setting you back about £400. I used to deliver the stuff and people would order a set of chairs and a table for £3000, nicer than injection-moulded PVC admittedly.

Iroko does not kill on contact, you may be allergic to it, and rosewood, furniture wax, adhesives, the plastic in your powertool grips, the list is long and tedious. Take precautions like you would with any dust, if you get a reaction, don't use it.

Matching one wood to another is never easy, even if it's the same type, some iroko is dark brown, almost black, very green, yellow etc... Are you sure decent quality pine wouldn't do?

Aidan

this will be my first outdoor furniture project so am happy to use anything that will look good plus ensure I get to use my PT and bandsaw ! (yes I am that shallow)
if pine is fine then happy to use that, just wanted to use a hardwood to get a bit of experience of working with it

 

[Benchwayze]

I have a bench almost identical to the one Power Tool showed.
It is planked with Iroko. Every year I sanded it down and coated with Cuprinol.

Until other pressing matters took my eye of the ball. Inside 18 months it had started to split and now all the stales need replacing. Wish I lived near Darlington then!

I have some Western Red Cedar that I will try. Might have to make the stales a little thicker, but it should do the job and it needs only linseed oil, now and again, if at all.

I could consider idigbo though, as I have been asked to make a table and benches for a friend's garden. Research needed then!

Regards
John

 

[wizer]

It seems it's that time of year. I have just been thinking about suitable outdoor woods. I'm making my Adirondack chairs out of left over Yellow Balau decking. I'm not sure how it works out it terms of cost as I bought it nearly 4yrs ago. It's tough on tools but generally looks very nice when machined.

Softwood shouldn't be totally discounted for outdoor use. I re-visited my old primary school today and there are some softwood planters that my Dad made for them over 18yrs ago. They are in fantastic condition, I was shocked they where still there. For your bench, you could use softwood. If you have to replace it in 8-10yrs, will you be bothered?