bjm
Naturally different
woodbloke":1jutlosg said:
You need to look at the entire anatomy of the wood, not just the end grain. Never trust an expert who relies solely on a hand lens.
Brian
Wood ID? Super Wood Dectives Only Need Apply!
- Thread starter Chems
- Start date
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You need to look at the entire anatomy of the wood, not just the end grain. Never trust an expert who relies solely on a hand lens.
Brian
joiner_sim
Established Member
Chems":mpaal80y said:
I don't want to die
I have recently started using dust masks alot more, as before I wasn't much until I read something on here and it scared the hell out of me.Thanks for the kind comment. My nan had the coffee table and has now applied beeswax onto it, giving it, its final finish. I am still quite proud of that project as it was my first proper attempt at furniture making in the enviroment of my own workshop. Only machine is a bandsaw.
I haven't updated my WIPs page, as my phone is broken which was my digital camera. Hopefully getting another phone soon.
OPJ
Established Member
I think you should get yourself a camera as well, Simon! :wink:
Chems, iroko is naturally 'oily' and should last for many years outdoors without the need for any kind of finish or protection. If you do intend to add a finish though, it helps to wipe the surface down with white spirit or similar (you may've seen Norm using acetone on teak before gluing two parts together).
As said already, do take ALL precautions when working with this stuff. If I was you, I wouldn't be looking to give it away for free but, instead, I'd find room to store it until you need it one day - as you suggested, yes, it would be ideal if you wanted to make a garden bench. :wink:
Chems, iroko is naturally 'oily' and should last for many years outdoors without the need for any kind of finish or protection. If you do intend to add a finish though, it helps to wipe the surface down with white spirit or similar (you may've seen Norm using acetone on teak before gluing two parts together).
As said already, do take ALL precautions when working with this stuff. If I was you, I wouldn't be looking to give it away for free but, instead, I'd find room to store it until you need it one day - as you suggested, yes, it would be ideal if you wanted to make a garden bench. :wink:
Nev Hallam
Established Member
I recently made a fire surround from iroko, I didn't know what wood it was, I was once told that this is the best way to identify a timer
Main key General Colour
Secondary Colour
Rings
pores
Grain on surface
Rays Narrow solid lines radiating out from the trees centre. (some woods these are hard to actually see)
Hardness
Weight
Smell
And anything pre milled maybe bark, leaf shape sap country of origin.
Iroko stinks toxic smell
very dense, infact so much so its one of the few woods that sinks in water
it will also blunt your plane blade pretty quickly!
Main key General Colour
Secondary Colour
Rings
pores
Grain on surface
Rays Narrow solid lines radiating out from the trees centre. (some woods these are hard to actually see)
Hardness
Weight
Smell
And anything pre milled maybe bark, leaf shape sap country of origin.
Iroko stinks toxic smell
very dense, infact so much so its one of the few woods that sinks in water
it will also blunt your plane blade pretty quickly!
