Wood for fitted bookshelves

[tommysis]

Hey everyone. I’m building some fitted bookshelves in a couple of weeks time. They’re going to be big: maybe 3m long and 2.5m tall. A bit will float above a radiator (so it goes wall to wall) and one end is going around a corner with an end section including a cubboard at the bottom. They’ll be painted white.

My question: what material to use? I’d been assuming 18mm ply, maybe BB/BB. However I’ve seen some shelves in the house that are 25mm - which seemed overkill to me. I’ve also seen some talk of using solid wood online, although most seem to use ply.

Any advice would be most welcome. Also does anyone know a supplier to sells primed ply to save on painting! Thanks.

 

[ian8555]

You will struggle with sheet length in standard ply sizes. Also you will get the ply leave witness lines on a painted edge , unless you lip it, then you can get witness lines on the face. Or you can paint it on tick, then no trouble. If it were me I would be looking at solid popular.

 

[tommysis]

You will struggle with sheet length in standard ply sizes. Also you will get the ply leave witness lines on a painted edge , unless you lip it, then you can get witness lines on the face. Or you can paint it on tick, then no trouble. If it were me I would be looking at solid popular.

Would you buy that as a sheet or planks? I am looking to make the shelves about 28cm deep I think, with the cupboard section around 35cm.

 

[ian8555]

Sorry meant to say paint it on thick. Pop comes in wide boards so the widths aren't a problem, lengths will be ok. Lathams can machine to size for you, but the delivery cost may be prohibitive.

 

[Wilson joinery]

If it were me I’d be using mr mdf (I’ve used medite and it’s really good). What sort of span are the shelves going to be? I’d have some sort of back panel screwed into the back of the shelves to avoid sagging, a rebate in the uprights for the shelves to sit in (screwed and glued as well) and a solid wood lipping applied to the front of each shelf.

Cheers
Pete

 

[tommysis]

Sorry meant to say paint it on thick. Pop comes in wide boards so the widths aren't a problem, lengths will be ok. Lathams can machine to size for you, but the delivery cost may be prohibitive

If it were me I’d be using mr mdf (I’ve used medite and it’s really good). What sort of span are the shelves going to be? I’d have some sort of back panel screwed into the back of the shelves to avoid sagging, a rebate in the uprights for the shelves to sit in (screwed and glued as well) and a solid wood lipping applied to the front of each shelf.

Cheers
Pete

I haven’t quite decided on span. Maybe about 500mm. Why MDF over ply? Does it not sag more?

 

[tommysis]

Sorry meant to say paint it on thick. Pop comes in wide boards so the widths aren't a problem, lengths will be ok. Lathams can machine to size for you, but the delivery cost may be prohibitive.

Poplar looks quite pricy…

 

[AJB Temple]

I have done exactly this across half the room width at both ends of a quite large room. 3m span between brick piers at each end. This holds about 400 mostly quite heavy cookery books and some sculpture and has cupboards below. All done from reclaimed 15mm oak (free - broken down from something else) primed and painted. I did not make the shelves adjustable as I needed strength, so the whole thing has a fixed back.

The other end encloses a radiator and is built entirely in 18mm MDF with hardwood fronts to make it look thicker and provide rigidity, with a full width back support too. I would not use ply on this as it is a costly waste. MDF paints well and is much cheaper. For a painted finish there is no point spending more. Use proper MDF primer & undercoat.

Plan your integrated lighting before you build so build in some power sources. Keep the spans sensible. Do you really want white - it marks very easily. Use a high quality finish coat paint that can be wiped and is scratch averse. I like Mylands as it is very robust and coats easily, but is not cheap.