Wood floors and draughts?

[eribaMotters]

Super, thanks for that. Is there a reason why this is better than other gap fillers? Better insulation?

Insulation would be no different, what I was trying to find was something clear as the gaps in a varnished floor would then not show up.

Colin

 

[Jacob]

.....Does anyone know of the gaps I mentioned would cause much heat loss in wooden floors? Has anyone had a similar problem and maybe some solutions? .......

Tiny gaps can be very draughty.
Good fitting T&G shouldn't be draughty but if it is there are only two solutions - either lay something over which is easy, or something under which is difficult. Something in the gaps is no good as there has to be room for movement.
We had plain butted boards in our chapel conversion but could line the upper floors from underneath with 2" Kingspan tight up against the boards.
If you can't get under maybe lift the whole thing, fit insulation flush with the joist levels, and relay the floor.

 

[joncooper27]

We have fitted Amtico LVT flooring Karndean is another make. Plywood is layed first 3 mm or 6mm then a thin latex screed. We used spray foam round the edges first. There are now no drafts and the floor is the same temperature as the room to walk on!

 

[MF1000]

I re-finished a pine floor and as I wasn't taking it up had to do the insulation from underneith. I couldn't get celotex through the access hole so used glassfibre. Just pushed it up between the beams and put strapping bands across (make sure you have a decent mask and coverall - or use the plastic alternative which isn't itchy). At some point I intend to use breathable membrane to create a complete cover on the underside. There is breathable multi-foil insulation now that is equivalent to almost 100mm of celotex. But for now it works.

As for air bricks, these will be visible from outside your house and will be below the damp proof course. It'll likely be an air brick on the outside course and a hole on the inner course. If your cavities aren't filled then the air will blow around this also and you may have air bricks higher up on the wall.

That’s assuming the house has a dpc ….it could be solid walls and the air abricks ventillate the void under the flooring

 

[Bingy man]

I did seal the edges of the floor around the skirting boards with draught excluder, and I can't feel any air coming through now but there are still the gaps on the actual floorboards, and when I put my hands over them I can feel very slight cold air coming through, so I'm wondering if filling the gaps, getting a big rug, and bigger radiator can take us to a high enough temperature so that we can avoid using the electric fan heater during cold spells

Yeah seal as many as you can as best as you can , big rug and a better/ larger radiator and see if it improves , if so you can always do a more permanent job in the summer . Try to reduce your thermostat temp to give you scope to turn it up if it suddenly get colder . I’m thinking other parts of your house must be red hot so thermostatic radiator valves could help . Your system could need balancing to push the heat downstairs where you need it the most . Have you considered/ tried getting a grant to improve the energy efficiency ( loft / cavity wall insulation ) you may be able to get help upgrading the boiler or radiators or both but this could be dependant on your moms personal circumstances .. good luck and keep us informed of your progress

 

[Georget79]

Yeah seal as many as you can as best as you can , big rug and a better/ larger radiator and see if it improves , if so you can always do a more permanent job in the summer . Try to reduce your thermostat temp to give you scope to turn it up if it suddenly get colder . I’m thinking other parts of your house must be red hot so thermostatic radiator valves could help . Your system could need balancing to push the heat downstairs where you need it the most . Have you considered/ tried getting a grant to improve the energy efficiency ( loft / cavity wall insulation ) you may be able to get help upgrading the boiler or radiators or both but this could be dependant on your moms personal circumstances .. good luck and keep us informed of your progress

Well we got the curtains, a new radiator 600x1400 instead of 60 x900. It's made a bit of a difference but not massively. It's freezing outside too and it's defintely not that bad in the living room, but still feel there could be improvement.

When the man fitted the radiator he took up a small section of the floorboard. I didn't realise it was such a big drop underneath. He went down to do some stuff. I could also feel a large amount of cold air coming up when the boards were off. When he put then back, the boards were a bit damaged and can really feel the cold air when put hand over it.

So I'm thinking to really solve this once and for all, and make it toasty warm and save heating in the long term, I need to address this. I think Vinyl would be easy, but may not cope too well with the carers hoist and other transfer equipment going over it.

I wonder if I can insulate it myself underneath, if I can get under as easy as the guy did. Or I'd need to lift all the floorboards up?

 

[Bingy man]

Well we got the curtains, a new radiator 600x1400 instead of 60 x900. It's made a bit of a difference but not massively. It's freezing outside too and it's defintely not that bad in the living room, but still feel there could be improvement.

When the man fitted the radiator he took up a small section of the floorboard. I didn't realise it was such a big drop underneath. He went down to do some stuff. I could also feel a large amount of cold air coming up when the boards were off. When he put then back, the boards were a bit damaged and can really feel the cold air when put hand over it.

So I'm thinking to really solve this once and for all, and make it toasty warm and save heating in the long term, I need to address this. I think Vinyl would be easy, but may not cope too well with the carers hoist and other transfer equipment going over it.

I wonder if I can insulate it myself underneath, if I can get under as easy as the guy did. Or I'd need to lift all the floorboards up?

I’m glad there has been an improvement but it will always be a compromise between sealing off all external vents and taking away the air circulation to the floorboards and joists and brickwork. Short of filling in the void under the floor ( and yes it can be 2 or 3 feet of cold , unheated space ) and installing under floor heating then I would repeat my previous advice of a good quality underlay with possibly a thermal barrier incorporated into it and a decent 10/12 mm laminate flooring.
It’s perfect for moving heavey beds etc and you can always add a few rugs . The house where I’ve been helping out my friend has had all the voids filled in ( approx 30 inches) 100mm of insulation and 75mm of screed enclosing the pipework for the u f h and it’s super warm- no additional rads . Extreme and expensive but it’s so different it’s like a different house . So think about the laminate ( my x has had the kitchen done with vinyl and it dents and marks easily..

 

[Jester129]

It may be worth investigation with the local council to see if grants are available to insulate between the floorboards with 100mm of (for example) celotex (sp) or similar insulation. My guess is that, with the circumstances of the household, you could hopefully get this done by professionals for free. You don't ask, you don't get.

 

[Georget79]

I’m glad there has been an improvement but it will always be a compromise between sealing off all external vents and taking away the air circulation to the floorboards and joists and brickwork. Short of filling in the void under the floor ( and yes it can be 2 or 3 feet of cold , unheated space ) and installing under floor heating then I would repeat my previous advice of a good quality underlay with possibly a thermal barrier incorporated into it and a decent 10/12 mm laminate flooring.
It’s perfect for moving heavey beds etc and you can always add a few rugs . The house where I’ve been helping out my friend has had all the voids filled in ( approx 30 inches) 100mm of insulation and 75mm of screed enclosing the pipework for the u f h and it’s super warm- no additional rads . Extreme and expensive but it’s so different it’s like a different house . So think about the laminate ( my x has had the kitchen done with vinyl and it dents and marks easily..

Thanks. I've not given laminate much thought but probably it could be the solution. I've got bad memories of sloppy, loose laminate from years ago and having a nightmare fitting it. But is as very young and could maybe just get someone in to do it. I can see there will be many benefits, and yes vinyl might not hold up well under all the machinery used by carers

 

[Georget79]

It may be worth investigation with the local council to see if grants are available to insulate between the floorboards with 100mm of (for example) celotex (sp) or similar insulation. My guess is that, with the circumstances of the household, you could hopefully get this done by professionals for free. You don't ask, you don't get.

Yeah ill need to look into that thanks for the reminder!

 

[Bingy man]

Thanks. I've not given laminate much thought but probably it could be the solution. I've got bad memories of sloppy, loose laminate from years ago and having a nightmare fitting it. But is as very young and could maybe just get someone in to do it. I can see there will be many benefits, and yes vinyl might not hold up well under all the machinery used by carers

The worst I’ve ever fitted on 2 separate jobs was from b n q -it was misshaped and getting it to lock in was a Nightmare. The better quality 10/12 mm is fine imo. Worth considering removing skirtings and lay laminate to wall keeping a 10 mm gap for expansion. Refit skirts for decent fit . Aside from any improvement grants you may be able to get the laminate route is probs the cheapest. If removing/ refitting the skirts is too much then just fit the trims to match ( scotia or quadrant etc ..