Wood filler to use on doors to be painted

[pebbles]

I've got these arched doors to make good, re-glaze and paint when I get back home. Have done a quick search here and it seems car filler can be used but is this honestly the best thing or is there anything better suited?

 

[Jacob]

Putty. A bit slow to dry but only a few days or so in this weather til you can paint over it. Best to fill after the first coat of oil based primer.

 

[AndyT]

I've just been repainting our bacl door and some windows and am very pleased with Polycell Woodflex filler. It's a one pot ready mixed water based product but really does keep some flexibility when dry, so doesn't fall out. You can either smooth it as it goes on with a wet finger or old credit card or sand it smooth when dry. (This was for ordinary little splits and holes; I can't see the state of your doors.)

 

[XT500fred]

If it's just for the re-glazing you're doing, then use putty. You'll know when it's ready to paint on because there'll be a skin on it, and can take a few days to a week or two, depending on how much linseed oil is in the putty, and how warm it is. The putty won't be hard so be careful when you're painting it, don't push to hard. Don't rush it, if you paint to early the paint will wrinkle as it and the putty inderneath dry out at different rates. And make sure the rebated wood is primed. Putty doesn't stick very well to bare wood.

And do as Jacob suggests, use an spirit based primer/undercoat. If you can't get hold of that, or don't want to use spirit based paints, Johnstones make a 2-pack water based epoxy primer that sticks to anything called "2 Pack Adhesion Promoting Primer" (http://www.johnstonestrade.com/Products ... rimer.aspx).

If it's just the wood that needs filling (holes/cracks/rough surface etc) use a 2 pack wood filler, the kind of stuff that is identical to car body filler. Don't use ordinary fillers like polyfiller, as it will fall out when the door is slammed shut!

 

[pebbles]

Thank you all for suggestions and I apologise for the state of the photo - is the best one I had here on my laptop That lightest bit in particular you can see (hopefully!) vertically down the middle below the bolt (being removed!) is split and missing - I guess where someone tried to force it in the past

Thanks Jacob and fred - I agree putty will certainly be the best for around the windows - but thank you for the tip about priming first - I didn't know that. For that main damaged bit further down and elsewhere, I was probably thinking along the lines of the wood filler type of thing that would be easy to sand smooth before priming... I want to get what I need here and take it home because it's really difficult (even after all these years there) to get exactly the right product sometimes.

The Polycell Woodflex sounds like it might be the thing - as long as it can do the repair along that edge - thanks Andy.

Slam doors?! Moi????? As if.... :lol:

 

[memzey]

In the past I've used the murex wood filler (interior and exterior grades) which you can get at toolstation. It sands really well, takes stain and can be varnished. I've never been disapointed by it and found it to be much better than the other brands that i have used.

 

[Bigdanny]

Hi,
Last year I renovated all my outside windows, 17 pieces in all. I have inside ones as well. I used the 2 component filler for car bumpers which is more flexible. Easy to sand, goes hard quick. If its a deep hole then you may have to sand back a bit a reapply the the next day as it may sink a bit. It seems to be better than other wood fillers I have used in the past and pretty cheap. As it will be painted it doesnt matter it is black in colour.
Hope this helps. So far its they have stood up to -20 and plus 35C with no ill effect.

Danny

 

[AndyT]

If you need to repair big chunks or along edges, I would saw/chisel out the broken wood back to a straight line, cut a wooden patch to suit, glue it in, then use filler if needed to make up any slight misalignment.

 

[Owl]

Hi Pebbles,
I was a professional painter & decorator (long retired) and I recommend using Isopon p38 as a filler, it's a polymer filler with a hardener, very easy to apply and sands very smooth..... should be available from Halfords or a car accessories shop.

Bare wood should always be painted with a primer coat before puttying as it provides a key and helps to prevent the linseed oil being sucked out of the putty.

 

[scrimper]

I do a lot of repairs to external woodwork, windows doors etc and find that the 2 part fillers are brilliant, the one I normally use is this one from Toolstation http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Paintin ... 169/p55454, the main advantage is that if you are doing a job and want to get on with it you can fill the hole/crack/whatever and it's ready to sand down and paint after about 20 mins.

What I normally do is fill any large voids with wood then use the filler to finish off, you have to work very quickly as it starts to go off after about 6 mins and is rock hard after 20 mins.

The filler is so hard when set it can be used on corners or anywhere without fear of it crumbling away, I have used it to repair bits of missing cornice and all sorts of things.

 

[Tom MasterCraftsman]

If money is no object the two part resin filler is good for sash and door repairs, very expensive and hard to sand but not just fills it adds strength.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Ordinary 2 part wood filler - Everbuild or something is fine. Only for the woodwork, mind, not anywhere near the glass. For minimal labour do the deep filling first then go over it afterwards for a near flat finish. If sanded while just hard it doesn't take to much sanding, if left for days it is harder than hell to sand by hand. It can be overpainted within minutes of application. For glazing, use putty. For wood filling use wood filler. The decorators I worked with stopped using putty as wood filler thirty years ago.

 

[pebbles]

Thank you to all for the useful information - I appreciate it. Lots to absorb and digest - will take me a while! The damaged edge isn't really deep - less than half a finger's worth at worst (tapered depth) but a good six inches long. Planning to be back there in September, so plenty of time to decide!

 

[johnny]

the best wood filla by far is the same resin filla used on car body repairs.

Architects specify it for English Heritage Conservation work on timber windows, doors, skirtings etc etc

It is impervious to everything sticks like you know what can be drilled, filed, sanded, painted and doesn't shrink or expand or rot ( you can use a putty for very fine scratches etc.)

It can give you several minutes before it drys and can be sanded and painted within hours.

 

[Normancb]

If you use the polyester type filler like P38, it goes through a stage when it's solid but still quite soft and rubbery. You get a window of a few minutes when you can carve it like soap with a sharp chisel or knife. I always fill proud, keep a bit back as a test piece, and when that is just right, cut away any surplus. Leaves a smooth surface and very little sanding. Once it's fully hardened, sanding is hard work. Also gets rid of the slightly sticky surface layer which clogs abrasive very quickly.