Wood filler. Hot cold, whatever works

[artie]

As well as prices going through the roof quality of wood appears to be heading south at a similar pace, I used to remove splits and knots and burn them in the stove, to recover some value.
But it's getting so bad I'm going to have to fill the imperfections or double my prices, which have already risen 50% this year.

I think the former the more prudent approach.

A well known auction site has these.

Wood Repair Kit Knot Crack Split Wood Filler Waterproof Fast Wood Cure Heat Gun | eBay

and screwfix has this.

Ronseal Multipurpose Wood Filler Natural 310ml | Wood Fillers | Screwfix.com

Ideally I would like it white or close to soft wood colour so I can then stain the entire thing and hopefully no one will notice.

Your thoughts and experiences welcome.

 

[jvc26]

I’ve used the Toupret repair with good success — it’s a pale wood colour when dried in its out of the box state.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Flexible formula resists shrinking and cracking ...

usually means it resists sanding as well.

What's wrong with two part wood filler?

 

[pe2dave]

If you don't mind the heart attack at the price.... Try this. Looks brilliant.

 

[thetyreman]

I got some tetrion woodfil yesterday which is a 2 part filler, did a test and it's good stuff, I got it for just under £10 from my local small hardware shop, cheaper than amazon.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I use Everbuild High Performance Wood Filler 500g Oak in various colours.

 

[GerryT]

I’d second the Toupret.
Easy to use/mix and very easy to sand even by hand.
I take no notice of the drying time on the box as it takes a little longer to dry than some.
One of the best I’ve used if you’re not in a hurry.

 

[TRITON]

If you don't mind the heart attack at the price.... Try this. Looks brilliant.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/1232093081...MIiazk5NuS8QIV-_3VCh0vKQztEAQYBiABEgJ89PD_BwE
Appears to be a 12mm stick, so got a glue gun that takes 12mm is a better saving. 8 or 9 sticks for £20

 

[Johnwa]

I like the look of the Toupret filler, but can anyone tell me how close to the actual wood finish it is after sanding and staining. I use Ronseall 2 part filler , but I find that it does leave a slightly smoother area than the surrounding wood and can be quite noticeable

 

[doctor Bob]

If you are doing it as paid work, the most expensive item in a workshop is labour, buy better wood.

 

[Superduner]

Coincidentally, I've just carried out an experiment using normal hot melt brown glue on some deep fissures on my terrace railing. I live in SW France, so the sun is pretty fierce and I could not find anything that would cope with the temperature difference between summer and winter as the fissures grew and shrank.
As expected, the glue ran into the fissures very well over the course of a sunny day, and actually more or less hardened overnight.

I then trimmed off the surplus early morning before the sun rose too far and was pretty pleased with the result (not to cabinet making standards, but it didn't have to be). The problem so far is that the glue softens slightly in the sun again, but that might change after a few days after the more volatile elements are given off. Having said that, I do need it to remain slightly flexible.

One downside is that normal glue sticks are not stain/paintable

I'll give it another few days, and have also contacted the Thermelt makers to see if their product is good in the sun.

 

[GerryT]

I like the look of the Toupret filler, but can anyone tell me how close to the actual wood finish it is after sanding and staining. I use Ronseall 2 part filler , but I find that it does leave a slightly smoother area than the surrounding wood and can be quite noticeable

John.
Depends on what timber your using, but I would say that it drys to a light Sandy colour.
Also depends on what finish your using .
Anything other than a paint finish and it’s going to show if the stain doesn’t match the timber or the colour of the filler.
Ive never used it other than on jobs that had to be painted.
I did use it once to cover plywood edges on wardrobes doors that were to be painted..came out excellent after sanding .

Someone said earlier about buying better timber and that’s a valid point, but again it depends on the extent of the timber to be filled and what you’re making and a combination of timber type and finish.

I’d be trying to avoid filler if at all possible .

 

[artie]

If you are doing it as paid work, the most expensive item in a workshop is labour, buy better wood.

I get your point.
I am doing it commercially.
Better wood is not an option, getting enough is getting tougher.
I won't be spending much tine sanding.
I'm hoping I can get something suitable in a tube that I can squeeze on quickly smooth with a scraper and stain when dry.
I aint making china cabinets.

 

[pe2dave]

A commercial woodworker, uses resin, shakes and knots as features? video

 

[mrpercysnodgrass]

This filler by Liberon might be the solution.
That said unless you put a finish on first so you can see the colour of the timber and then match the filler to it, I think you will always struggle to get near to the colour you want.
https://restexpress.co.uk/View/2063...9Ku1lczo5-SDNrVWFzLxVI2hB7SSNh7xoCiNcQAvD_BwE