Wood branding
- Thread starter Woodmonkey
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Glynne
Established Member
That looks good. I've tried a pyrograph for writing my name on the bas of turned pieces, but with a varying degree of success. Not too good for open grained woods.
I do have a stamp from Chalco and was thinking of an iron from them but from a very quick Google, Shapeways might be cheaper.
I do have a stamp from Chalco and was thinking of an iron from them but from a very quick Google, Shapeways might be cheaper.
Woodmonkey
Established Member
From memory I think it was around £40, so quite a lot less than other options I looked at.
gregmcateer
Established Member
looks a nicely made piece of kit.
I guess the temperature is a trial and error thing, (and different for different woods, too)
Thanks for sharing - on me bookmarks, for sure
I guess the temperature is a trial and error thing, (and different for different woods, too)
Thanks for sharing - on me bookmarks, for sure
Woodmonkey
Established Member
Here is the original link where i got the idea
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yo6hWKTo-g
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7yo6hWKTo-g
user 18352
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I just had one made up, the detail is amazing, cost £23, less than a week from conception to delivery, including 4 days shipping from Hong Kong, looked for it locally first but none came near price or quality wise.
I opted for no handle and made my own, you can specify the thread size on the back of the die, I went for 8mm.
I opted for no handle and made my own, you can specify the thread size on the back of the die, I went for 8mm.
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user 18352
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- Joined
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Sorry for the delay internets still pants up here..
The etsy shop is https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/SkyparkCollections
The one I got was 8mm tho they do thicker .. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/190845349/8mm-thick-custom-made-personalized?ref=shop_home_feat_1
The guy is really helpful, emails are quite quick coming back, and 4 day shipping hard to beat.
Hope this helps
The etsy shop is https://www.etsy.com/uk/shop/SkyparkCollections
The one I got was 8mm tho they do thicker .. https://www.etsy.com/uk/listing/190845349/8mm-thick-custom-made-personalized?ref=shop_home_feat_1
The guy is really helpful, emails are quite quick coming back, and 4 day shipping hard to beat.
Hope this helps
gregmcateer
Established Member
Branders all,
I forgot to ask before - what methods do you use to heat up the branding iron?
TIA
Greg
I forgot to ask before - what methods do you use to heat up the branding iron?
TIA
Greg
ericdockum
Established Member
I have just got into this, and today have a working system up and running using the brand manufacturer in etsy mentioned above.
However as a beginner maybe I didn't do enough research first, and should have focused more on the ancillaries rather than having the brand made up. I suspect others may have done the same.....
I approached this from the wrong end, I got excited and had the brand made first (very good, works fine on leather and wood, no probs there), Then made up a handle and rod to hold it, then decided for more repeatable temperature control I would prefer electric... wasted a bit of time and effort along the way.
After making a fine wood handle and played with gas heating, I bought a heavy duty 300w soldering iron, and made up a controller using a spare room light dimmer that I had kicking around. I noticed that on sites related to wood branding these were commonly mentioned. This rig works fine, I am a) always near power in the workshop, and b) not doing a mass production run, and c) only using a smallish brand on the bases of items.
The Iron I bought came with a large bent chisel type tip, the diameter of the tip where it goes into the iron is 14mm. A chunky piece of copper! I already had the brand, and had, without much thought, specified the thread in the back of the brand, as at that time I was only thinking of making a home made handle and the actual thread wasn't really critical.
Now I had the iron. I had to modify the bit and drill/tap a thread in it to take a stub thread to attach the brand. Took a while.
I then noticed you could buy a similar looking iron, similar power, (E*ay) with a load of screw in pyrography bits for the similar price as the Iron I was modifying. I should have bought one of those, measured the thread on the brands in the kit, and then specified the thread to the chap making my Brand. Curses!
So that is my learning :
I would go electric, with a high power iron and then use a controller especially if you have the spare components to make one cheap.
I would look at the pyrograpy kits which is essentially a big soldering iron with screw in brands with it.
Then I would order up the brand itself with a matching thread to the pyrography iron.
Have some scrap wood ready to practice on before doing the deed on a valuable piece. I have plenty of scrap bits of wood, seems to be my largest product actually.
This is probably all crashingly obvious to more experienced folk, but I just liked the idea of the brand and gave it a quick try without much reseach, perhaps this post will help others just giving it a go like me.
Good Luck,
However as a beginner maybe I didn't do enough research first, and should have focused more on the ancillaries rather than having the brand made up. I suspect others may have done the same.....
I approached this from the wrong end, I got excited and had the brand made first (very good, works fine on leather and wood, no probs there), Then made up a handle and rod to hold it, then decided for more repeatable temperature control I would prefer electric... wasted a bit of time and effort along the way.
After making a fine wood handle and played with gas heating, I bought a heavy duty 300w soldering iron, and made up a controller using a spare room light dimmer that I had kicking around. I noticed that on sites related to wood branding these were commonly mentioned. This rig works fine, I am a) always near power in the workshop, and b) not doing a mass production run, and c) only using a smallish brand on the bases of items.
The Iron I bought came with a large bent chisel type tip, the diameter of the tip where it goes into the iron is 14mm. A chunky piece of copper! I already had the brand, and had, without much thought, specified the thread in the back of the brand, as at that time I was only thinking of making a home made handle and the actual thread wasn't really critical.
Now I had the iron. I had to modify the bit and drill/tap a thread in it to take a stub thread to attach the brand. Took a while.
I then noticed you could buy a similar looking iron, similar power, (E*ay) with a load of screw in pyrography bits for the similar price as the Iron I was modifying. I should have bought one of those, measured the thread on the brands in the kit, and then specified the thread to the chap making my Brand. Curses!
So that is my learning :
I would go electric, with a high power iron and then use a controller especially if you have the spare components to make one cheap.
I would look at the pyrograpy kits which is essentially a big soldering iron with screw in brands with it.
Then I would order up the brand itself with a matching thread to the pyrography iron.
Have some scrap wood ready to practice on before doing the deed on a valuable piece. I have plenty of scrap bits of wood, seems to be my largest product actually.
This is probably all crashingly obvious to more experienced folk, but I just liked the idea of the brand and gave it a quick try without much reseach, perhaps this post will help others just giving it a go like me.
Good Luck,
gregmcateer
Established Member
Thanks for the rundown of your experiences, Eric.
Any chance of a few pictures of your setup?
TIA
Greg
Any chance of a few pictures of your setup?
TIA
Greg
ericdockum
Established Member
here is the kit.
I ended up modifying the iron into what I could have simply bought in a pyrograph kit I think. The only possible only bump in the road would be if the pyrograph kit didn't use the metric series threads that the brand maker uses. If that was the case I would just have to make a stud metric one end for the brand and whatever else the other for the iron.
I will probably get an additional smaller brand for small items.
Have yet to try running the brand around a curved shape, I might need to do that, never mind I have plenty of scrap wood to practice on....
Good Luck.
I ended up modifying the iron into what I could have simply bought in a pyrograph kit I think. The only possible only bump in the road would be if the pyrograph kit didn't use the metric series threads that the brand maker uses. If that was the case I would just have to make a stud metric one end for the brand and whatever else the other for the iron.
I will probably get an additional smaller brand for small items.
Have yet to try running the brand around a curved shape, I might need to do that, never mind I have plenty of scrap wood to practice on....
Good Luck.
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gregmcateer
Established Member
Thanks for that
Lexx":14v5immy said:
I've been looking for a brand iron for ages which is quite tiny. I think for the prices they are charging I could get a couple in different sizes. What's the quality like of the iron btw?
ericdockum
Established Member
The iron I got seems ok, solidly built, no problem at all, pleasantly surprised at the price in fact. It smoked a little on first use, but that was to be expected. It was from Holland, and came with a Shuko plug and uk adaptor, which was fine, I put a uk plug on it (from my old small soldering iron that that had just gone phut.) I have lived in Holland for a few years, and have a mix of uk and continental equipment, but as I am now permanently in the UK I have recently started re plugging stuff permanently to UK.
Anyone moving to Holland need a bag of plugs and extensions?
The brand itself is very crisp. I bought a thin one so unsurprisingly the threaded socket on the back is only a few turns deep, but it is fine. I got a 3x3cm one, which seems appropriate size for my work. I would counsel not to make the lines too thin, maybe mine are.
Note the design has to be sent in a range of formats. If you don't have the software to generate the design directly in one of the required formats, there are free online converters that will convert normal picture files such as generated by Paint or Powerpoint....
hope this helps.
Anyone moving to Holland need a bag of plugs and extensions?
The brand itself is very crisp. I bought a thin one so unsurprisingly the threaded socket on the back is only a few turns deep, but it is fine. I got a 3x3cm one, which seems appropriate size for my work. I would counsel not to make the lines too thin, maybe mine are.
Note the design has to be sent in a range of formats. If you don't have the software to generate the design directly in one of the required formats, there are free online converters that will convert normal picture files such as generated by Paint or Powerpoint....
hope this helps.
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