Wonky Axminster saw

[budgie98]

I believe most of these arbor flanges are dished (if that's the right word)
i.e only contact the blade on the outer perimeter, and only make full/or lots more
contact with the blade when tightened up.
Unsure if it's the case here, but definitely worth a mention.

Good luck
Tom

My cheap direct-drive saw has this problem; the inner flange is causing the blade run-out. I forget the actual measurement, but it isn't enough to spoil my level of work. Even if it did, I'm not sure that having the flange re-faced would work unless it is kept on the motor shaft and turned between centres.

 

[Ttrees]

My cheap direct-drive saw has this problem; the inner flange is causing the blade run-out. I forget the actual measurement, but it isn't enough to spoil my level of work. Even if it did, I'm not sure that having the flange re-faced would work unless it is kept on the motor shaft and turned between centres.

It appears like one solid lump on this machine?

I had a bit of detritus on mine, and it was enough to make the blade all wonky.
Some knowledgeable folk like Deema for instance, would make sure it's not a cheap blade
like one of those red ones...just incase that is at fault.
Should it happen that that error ceases when the blade is installed, doubt it myself....
that is, if that indicator test wasn't a misreading, due to the shape of the flange.

Might be worth getting a dot of marker to find the high spot, and retesting afterwards again, to be sure.
Can any burr or anything of the likes be felt with a finger nail.

Good luck
Tom

 

[BarbaraT]

Not a good day. I knew it wasn't right... There was a lot more play in the axle when I took the belt off.
Guess the belt does a good job and hiding the play.

I'm not sure how this happens... Bearings feel okay.. Not great.

 

[imageel]

Reading through this article may give you a clue as to root cause -
Bearing Lubrication
It looks to me as though the pitted shaft is item 7 in your parts diagram, but it is unclear to me what sits within that shoulder - an inner part of a bearing shell perhaps?
Or has a bearing seized in the past and created that groove?
To my eyes that pitting looks more likely caused by hardened metal being compressed against the softer shaft material, so possibly a prior bearing started breaking up and particles have made their way into that shoulder and become embedded or created pits.
I'd have thought that your only option is to replace the shaft and bearings, and ensure the replacements are fully sealed to ensure that wear is not repeated.

 

[BarbaraT]

Replacing the bearings is the easy bit.. They look to be sealed and have no wet lubrication system.
I'll order some SKF / NSK sealed bearings before rebuilding it.... even if the current bearings look and feel fine.

I suspect the front bearing failed and seized, the saw then wore away a chunk of the shaft with the shaft spinning inside the inner bearing race. The saw was then stripped and the bearings were replaced...

The person doing the repair possibly had the same problem with not being able to get hold of a replacement shaft so put it back together and sold it..

The big problem is the damage on the shaft... There is a video below and I'm not happy to use it like this or sell it..

Axminster came back to me with a price that's fine.. and confirmed the leadtime of 6 months, I have a kitchen i need to build and fit before Christmas..
The part is BURT007830 C-7 Gear house £67.22


If anyone knows any good machining companies I can put a drawing together..

Does anyone have a dead saw with a good shaft?

 

[no idea]

Try contacting Burt directly -

https://www.burt-group.com.cn/Services_Support/
They may not deal with end users directly but may be worth a shot.

 

[Ttrees]

Have you looked at the casting also?

 

[BarbaraT]

Try contacting Burt directly -

https://www.burt-group.com.cn/Services_Support/
They may not deal with end users directly but may be worth a shot.

I'll keep my fingers crossed, massive thanks for the tip, Just emailed them.
With a part number BURT007830 I can guess who makes the saw

Have you looked at the casting also?

There is some damage to the casting I think it's the pivot for the riving knife so not critical, The bearing support looks okay to me..
(PS needs cleaning before reassembly, oil-soaked saw dust makes it look worse than it is)

 

[Distinterior]

@Barbara T,......Have you enquired about "Flame Spray Repair"...?

It's a method of repairing a component typical of the damage your spindle has suffered from.

 

[BarbaraT]

Have you enquired about "Flame Spray Repair"...?

Yes, but it was on some injection moulding tooling and the repair was more than I paid for the saw.

I've managed to get hold of a replacement shaft on next-day delivery so happy, Also ordered a set of NTN bearings
gives me a fighting chance of getting this kitchen finished before Christmas.

 

[Distinterior]

Yes, but it was on some injection moulding tooling and the repair was more than I paid for the saw.

I've managed to get hold of a replacement shaft on next-day delivery so happy, Also ordered a set of NTN bearings
gives me a fighting chance of getting this kitchen finished before Christmas.

I'm glad you've managed to source a replacement....

 

[bp122]

Hi Barbara

Seems like you have things handled now.

But if you are cuttings sheet goods, why not rent /borrow a track saw? Far more accurate for one, and with the right jigs, extremely repeatable.

 

[BarbaraT]

Finally all working This is afterwards with new ntn bearings and a new blade spindle.. Not perfect but a lot lot better.. First cut with some scrap wood. (photos below)

Anyone recommend a blade for plywood, also something with big teeth for ripping through some oak sleepers..

Does anyone use the scribing blade?