WIP - Yet another workbench - warning a little large.

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TobyT

Established Member
Joined
22 Jul 2008
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Location
West of Bristol
I am a relative newcomer to the world of Woodworking, although I've been playing around with DIY for a while and a partial motorhome conversion. I am a proud possessor of a shed (renamed The Workshop when the better half is around) and while it's got a bench I though I ought to build a more impressive version that makes me look as though I know what I'm doing. At the same time I could use it as an apprentice piece to try out techniques. At somepoint I had acquired a Record 52 1/2 from the local recycling centre and it needed somewhere to go.

So I eagerly devoured the Landis book.

Somewhere I've got a design. I'm not going to post it though as it's a roughly drawn idea on a scrap of paper in biro with various dimension incomprehensibly marked on and crossed out. No wonder I seem to have lost some space. I should know better, I studied engineering at university, but the 'organic' approach always seems to be a better idea at the time. Particularly when I'm standing looking at a piece of wood and have a great idea; pity I never write any of them down.

The only critical dimensions were that it was going to be built in between two small brick pillars 142 cm apart.

The shed is 5m x 2m and is at the back of the yard built onto the garden wall behind. It's also the store for garden bits and pieces and the collection of power tools that I seem to have built up.
597881906_aDa4X-M.jpg

The right wall with original bench. One triton router which was in the Aldi table but now isn't because the smaller Black and Decker is in parts while I try and work out how to replace the bearing which gave out after not much use.
597882046_sCKRb-M.jpg

The left wall, with timber store, flaky paint on slightly damp walls and a frankly scary Clarke table saw which I got for free and has never really been used except as a junk table.


It's only 195cm high, which is alright for me as a shorty but doesn't leave much room for overhead storage or diagonal sheets of ply. Big stuff gets done out in the yard.

So out I went I bought some shed pine. Yes I know that workbenches should be in hardwood but I knew I was going to get it wrong. I made some decisions about thickness and size while contemplating the timber. I can't remember why I made these but ended up with some 5cmx10cm for the front section of the bench and 5cmx7.5cm for the back part. Legs from 5x7.5.

Initial planing of the timber was done in the yard using some highly technical support methods.
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I planed the 2.4m lengths and then cut them down. Despite making lots of shavings I still ended up with slightly twisted pieces, although less so than when I started.

Knowing I was going to put the legs together with mortice and tenon joints I got seduced by a morticer from Aldi. I know. Actually it's a pretty heavy piece of kit if rather rough around the edges. Unfortunately it needs a lot of fettling to get it to work properly - rather more than I put in. Some decent chisels would have helped. All in it would have been quicker to rout or drill and then hand finish (as I had to tidy up by hand anyway).

I thought I had more photos but all I seem to have is some of the rails.
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And an assembled leg frame.
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I've routed a 9mm deep by 10mm wide channel in the frame (after I'd glued it together - would have been easier before but I didn't think of that) and dropped in a sheet of 9mm ply. 5mm expansion gap all round and panel pinned into the bottom channel. The rails will hold it in when assembled.
597882606_Xbcet-M.jpg


Upside down and showing the knockdown joints I used. Not sure why I put them I think had some vague idea originally that I was going to take it with me if we moved. I decided quite early on that it probably wasn't worth it but seemed to have stuck with the joints.


Closeup on the joint. Essentially an M6 bolt through a MT joint and held in place with a normal washer. I probably should have put some form of lock nut or threadlock on and I do expect it to loosen with time; but call it an experiment in finding out info for future use...
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And a final two pictures of how it is now and in rough place. Bench is going to be held by 2 coach screws at the front (fitted) and 2 bolts in slots towards the back which will allow some movement (yet to be done).
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The vice sits on the ground. I need to re-assemble it after taking it apart to clean out the rust (job not complete).

I'm going to fit a timber along the wall and join it to the main bench with breadboard ends. A gap of about 5cm will sit between the main bench and the back, allowing for some expansion and to drop some clamps through if I need. The back wall is by no means straigt or vertical and the floor is also fairly rough so I can't bolt the whole thing straight to the wall.

Timber on the bench is a piece of ash for my next project which is a canoe paddle. I'll probably get something similar (excess hardwood timber floor board with machined joint that will need planing off) from the same source as the hardwood edging for front and sides. The vice is going to be set into the current bench and the front edging will act as the jaw cover for the back. The original idea was that I would work of the planed surface as is, but I've now decided to put a piece of hardboard on top to protect it. Dogholes need to be drilled.

Finally I want to fit some drawers into the space in the legs. I've got a topic open about this in the General forum as I'm trying to work out sizes and materials.
 
Excellent Toby. More inspiration for my own, oft postponed, workbench project :oops:

Boz
 
Hi Toby

Bet you cant Waite till you have it all finished to try it out , it will bring a nice smile on your face when you finished your first job on it , no more stools & kitchen chairs, sawing timber over your knee , etc nice effort well done .hc
 
TobyT. If you have not fixed it yet think about getting it level in both planes, it does make a difference when jointing with a plane. Looks a good sturdy job
 
Looks great Toby, very satisfying to make I should think.

If you end up doing much hand planing on it then you might find it worthwhile adding a back panel of ply, perhaps 1/2" or so thick, to help reduce racking and keep it rigid, and perhaps upgrade the M6 bolts to something meatier for similar reasons, but see how it goes, definately going to be much more fun than using the trestles !

Here's some ideas on how to go about fitting the vice

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/view ... light=vice

Cheers, Paul :D
 
@Boz
I would like to say I knocked it up in the weekend but it's in progress for quite a few (lots) months. Normally languishing in the corner while I get on with something else like fitting the floor in the utility room. Strangely, despite looking after a new baby, I've had more chance to work on it recently, probably becasue I'm spending more weekends at home.

@HC
I've had my grandads old (hence better) workmate to work on which has been a help, and a couple of plastic sawhorses for the big work; but hopefully planing and other work which requires a non moving surface will be much better. When I was planing the timber for the bench the sawhorses had to be weighed down with a couple of concrete slabs to try and keep them still. Just planing the top surface was a pleasurable experience in comparison.

@Newt.
I've planed the top in both directions and checked it with an aluminium metre rule (can't afford a reference steel yet) and it seems pretty flat. It could be improved but I'm going to surface with the hardboard so a little bit of local variation isn't going to bother me. Which is a lot more than can be said for the floor. A fair bit of fettling and chocking will be required to get a nice level surface.

@Paul
Planing the top told me I needed to stick in more rigidity. The tenons are a bit rubbish so upgrading the bolts probably won't do much. Hopefully I will gain some by fixing to the wall but I was going to stick on a diagonal brace on the back as well. Your idea of a piece of ply might be better.
Thanks for the link on vice fitting. I had read the stick trick, but making a template for the bolts is something I hadn't thought about.
 
Can't see anything wrong with that, Toby. You could taken your material costs, doubled them and still ended up with a 'bench that wasn't half as good as yours! :wink: One good thing about working with softwood (and, "organically") is that you can modify things as you go along without breaking the bank.

Lock nuts would be ideal but you could probably get away with adding a second nut; there appears to be plenty of length on the thread. I'd agree with Paul in that you may also want to consider upgrading from M6 at some point. Then again, it's the mortise and tenons that do most of the work. :)
 
I think Pete's (Newt) suggestion was more to do with levelling the bench in the horizontal planes so that, for example, if the shed floor slopes the bench top is still properly horizontal by packing under the legs as necessary.

This makes sawing and planing much more accurate and intuitive (apparently, I still can't saw straight :oops: :lol: ), as it is more instinctive rather than trying to compensate for an out of whack bench at a funny angle (even if only slight).

Not sure I've explained that very well !

Cheers, Paul
 
I agree with Pete's suggestion of leveling the bench in both planes, one of the most fundamental things to do but so often ignored. Anything you can do to prevent 'racking' when you plane stuff is also highly recommended - Rob
 

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