WIP Roubo: Finishing

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wcndave

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Truden, Italy
I've been blathering away in different threads about various related topics, so I thought it time to put it all together in one thread.

I recently got some 34mm and 60mm stock of waney edged European (Soft) Maple for two builds.

The 34mm is for kitchen drawers, and I have been having fun even thinking about them as they are cupped, not straight and twisted. Also been engaged in some discussion about snipe which I still need to resolve as it impacts my cutting strategy.

However they seem like pure joy compared to the 60mm boards I have been processing for my Roubo build.

I have Maguire's wagon vice and pinless leg vice on order, one a present from my father, and I am building a split top Roubo mostly based on the woodwhisperer guild project, modified to hardware and stock sizes I will be using.

I got the boards stacked and then marked out the top laminate pieces and the legs using a chalkline. (A most excellent tool for larger work). The rails will come from scrap wood from my house building project, so I'll be mixing Maple with Larch in the end.

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I started thinking that I would use a jig saw, however faced a few issues. Firstly due to cupping and bulges it wasn't long enough, Secondly it was hard work keeping straight (although I could have used a straightedge), and Finally it was too slow.

I then went to the track saw, which is a festool TS55 - too short to cut right through, so I tried cutting from both sides.

Where I have stopped cuts with a partial cross cut to preserve as much length as possible, this sometimes proved hard to match up. Also I had the boards in smiley faced mode, and when turned over, they tended to pinch the blade.

One piece just didn't part off, and when I gave up and cross cut, I found out why.

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I then tried to finish the track saw cut with the jigsaw, however doh! that can't possibly work! Found that out quickly.

After picking up the pieces of my jigsaw and putting them back together again, I realised that the cross cut i had done freehand had left only 4-5mm of stock and I'd just hand sawn it off.

So my final process is to use track saw for a series of passes which takes me to about 5cm.
Final pass free hand with track saw (It's actually really easy to keep it straight in the existing slot)
Hand saw the final 5mm - actually very fast.

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I worked fairly late into the night (about 11pm) using a halogen lamp.

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This morning there's some mess around

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But I have 5 of the top boards (from 11) and 2 out of 8 of the leg boards done.

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I reckon now I've got the process sorted, I should be a bit quicker with the rest.

Then on to the process of planing these monsters!
 
I've got to admire your determination and it makes me for grateful for the (straight) timber we can easily get over here!
 
Thanks. Got another two top pieces out of a board last night. Turns out some of them have wavy metal plates driven I the ends to prevent splitting I guess although I would have thought the stresses would still be there just waiting. So it's lucky I cut the laminate tops 30 cm oversize as I don't know how long these plates are.

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A few more boards done today, beginning to look like I have stock ready to start!

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Well I'm now cutting the boards for the kitchen so I'm not sure about that ;-)

Thankfully I have the use of this large barn to work in.

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Found some saw horse replacements for the beer crates, and my back has already sent me a thank you present and card.

I also found the track saw cutting out quite often due to overheating, so I went and lumped my extraction up to the barn which seems to help cool it.

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Which TS are you using? I've got a 55 that I managed to burn out ripping some 45mm mahogany with the standard blade, it was repaired free of charge but I certainly learnt it's capabilities and won't do that again. :oops: (hammer)
 
:idea: I've not seen your plans, but I've been watching a load of videos and one brilliant idea (I thought) was (if not having a well) to have a removable strip (it only looked to be about 40mm wide) down the centre, which was rebated to lay flush , but could be flipped to stand proud for use as a stop. It also gives access through the centre of the bench for cramps.
It probably makes the handling of the top easier as well, being in two parts - although of course they could be joined at the ends.
Just an idea.
 
Andy,I have the 55 and sometimes wished I'd gone for the grunt of the 75. I am also using the standard blade which is meant for sheet goods, really I should get the rip blade, but balk at 100 euros for a blade.

Phil,I will be doing just that, it's called the split top roubo, and the wood whisperer plans cover it in infinite detail. Also jord from Australia has good videos.

I will do in three parts to run through thicknesserr and planer however I may not be able to manage the weight!

Then I will join two of them.

On hold whilst I work on kitchen drawers although I could use a good bench for that!

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So when I have to switch off the planer at 11 pm (even though the neighbours say it doesn't disturb them), I get some time away from kitchen drawers and back on roubo.

I have been hand planing the edges of my laminate timbers to clean up the "track sawing from both sides" mess.

So I am looking at getting them ready for the planer / thicknesser and given their size and the fact my beds are 1.4m on top and 90 underneath I was wondering about best strategy to get them straight.

I have plenty of meat width ways, they are 15cm, however would like to keep as much of the 5cm thickness as possible.

Should I hand plane in a deliberate concave or convex edge? Ie is one shape going to result in tail chasing and the other give better results given the length?

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wcndave":2bm4tb5y said:
Andy,I have the 55 and sometimes wished I'd gone for the grunt of the 75. I am also using the standard blade which is meant for sheet goods, really I should get the rip blade, but balk at 100 euros for a blade.

Phil,I will be doing just that, it's called the split top roubo, and the wood whisperer plans cover it in infinite detail. Also jord from Australia has good videos.

I will do in three parts to run through thicknesserr and planer however I may not be able to manage the weight!

Then I will join two of them.

On hold whilst I work on kitchen drawers although I could use a good bench for that!

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I held off buying the rip blade for mt 55 until I needed to rip waney edge off a load of 50mm oak. The fine cut blade coold not do it, but the rip blade went though it quite easily. Much easier for you and the tool!
 
I'm done now! :D

Still probably good advice for others. I did it in multiple passes to try to avoid stressing the tool.
 
So I got four laminate strips planed. I had to use the skip planing method and although my shop is eight metres it was pretty tight.

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I managed to edge them, however one has a clear bow along the edge.

I maintained five cms thickness so four is enough for front slab.

I then used my domino to create alignment holes.

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Glue up was stressful as I ran out of glue! By using all of some old cheap stuff which was rather tacky but seemed ok, and all my titebond I just had enough.

Then I applied a couple of cramps.

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You can really tell difference between besseys and the cheap Dakota cramps.

I felt I was going to break them and they were going to deform. However I do seem to have got enough pressure overall.

I have no idea how I will get this through planer/thicknesser, and I still have the seven piece slab to come!

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So I laminated the seven boards after much lugging and planing / thicknessing.

I then had to go to my brother in laws construction company to pick up 80 osb sheets for my house build and I suggested we take my slabs.

Ten minutes after we arrived I have flat and parallel slabs! So so so much easier!

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hey
just a mention on the festal ts55! the rip blade is needed for solid timber when going along the grain the fine cut cut blade can be used for crosscuts.

warning if you put it into safety mode from over loading please un plunge it but hold the trigger until it cools down it ticks over and stops the motor from seizing up while cooling what could happen if you just turn it off and leave it cool. its all in the owners manual but who reads those :)

nice bench I buy all my timber in ireland from french milled waney edge timber. imported you get better board color consistence as you can see the boards as a tree trunk with stickers holding them apart. have had the difficulties you r facing chainsaw in my weapon of choice to get it into more manageable sizes.
 
I did feel that using the right blade would have better, however for the price...

I didn't know about holding the trigger whilst cooling. What's a man awl?

I still have non square front and back, but good enough for my needs!

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Ok looking at my blade I decided I need a rip one. And one for mitre saw.

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