WIP: Dovetailed Stationary Box (Completed)

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joiner_sim

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The following work-in-progress can be also followed on my website at http://www.JoinerSim.vze.com where it will be updated first and then on here shortly after.

Firstly, may I apoligise for the poor photo quality of some of the images that are going to appear. This is due to the camera phone being easier to "snap" the picture when needed. However, I will make an effort to take pictures with a decent digital camera when I have time to fetch it and when the item is finished, to show it in detail.

The first thing I had to do was find out what hardware I was going to use, as this would determine the design of the box and dimensions of the timber. I decided upon ordering pre-machined 120x17mm North American White Oak. This is a little bit of forward planning for the future, as the actual sides of this box I am making are only going to be 57mm high. But the 120mm width allows me to make a variety of boxes in the future, as there will be some timber spare. The picture below shows my plan that I've drew up. The overall dimension is to be 234x84mm.

boxdrawing1.jpg


The lid will not be glued in and cut out later. I will make the box without the lid and cut a piece of timber to suit the box and hinge. However, the base has caused me to have to think quite a bit! I have decided it will be rebated in and the dovetailed joint will stop just at the base and will be mitred so the rebates are hidden. To show what I mean and to also help myself understand what I will be trying to achieve I have drawn the detail in the next picture.

boxdrawing3.jpg


With the design process dealt with, now's the time to get down to business and start making it happen! So, today I have been down to my home workshop space and unpackaged the timber that arrived earlier in the week. Following advice from a video on Get Woodworking, I have tried to keep the box sides all together so that the grain will sort of match up. This is fine for one side and one back, also for one side and one front, however it will not match all the way around as the 120mm timber is going to be ripped down the middle and each piece will give me my 57mm high sides. In the next photo you will see how far I have got now, which is to the point of marking the length of the front, back, left & right sides, ready for cutting.

Image0174.jpg


And I'm sorry to say, but have to.... thats as far as I've got now. The reason being that I'll cut the timber at work this week on the table saw rather than do it by hand at home, also I need to rebate the pieces for that base and other than going out and buying a new router cutter for it, it will be much easier, cleaner and safer to do the rebates on the spindle moulder also at work. I will try and remember to photograph the ripping, crosscutting and rebating in progress if I have time, but will be limited as this will have to be done on my break times! Once the timber has been cut and rebated, I guess the dovetails will be next on the to-do list. So please keep watching and your comments/ advice are as always on a work-in-progress, very welcome.
 
Machining the sides

Today, I have ripped my timber sides to 57mm on the table saw and cleaned up the sawn edge simply with a bit of sandpaper. For those that are interested it is an Altendorf panel saw from the 1980's, with a custom made dust extracted crown guard. This is the machine that I find myself using for at least half of every working day, cutting ply, plastic, polystrene, formica and what ever else gets thrown at me!

Image0170.jpg


Once ripping the timber in half, I went over to the spindle moulder (sorry no pics, I forgot!) and rebated the sides to accomodate the 17mm base. The main reason the base is so thick is because to plane some of my timber down thru the thicknesser would possibly mean wasting more than I'd need to, to allow it to machine smoothly, so I decided to keep it all the same thickness. Then I cut the timber to length, leaving 2mm extra to clean up the joints properly once it has been assembled. You can see below how far I've got now with the timber and hopefully thats all the machining of the sides that will be required! (Unless, I mess up on the joints!- Really hope I don't though)

Image0177.jpg


It will probably be a while now til I can post anymore pictures as the dovetail cutting will have to happen on one of the weekends at home. But I will for sure post updates when I can :)

Thanks for reading so far.
 
I think I'm chipping in here far too late, but this (in my view anyway) isn't the way to go about a small box. If the sides are 57mm high you've got just enough space to get one complete dovetail in the box and one in the lid, which should be sawn off through an extra wide pin with a thin bladed handsaw or alternatively, a band saw. The base far too thick at 17mm...you could get away with some 4mm veneered ply or mdf easily and just rebate it in once the box has been made...use a bearing guided rebate cutter in a router. The top could be done in the same way and if you wanted to do a better job, make it as a thin panel. The small jewellery box I made shown in the pic below:

p1.jpg


shows some of the features that I mentioned. The mistake that a lot of folk make is in thinking that because it's just a 'small box' there's not much work in it when very often, the reverse is true. Making a piece like this is very much about really thinking your way through it before even laying hands on timber and I fear that you've made the same mistake. Sorry for the adverse critique, but personally I'd kick this one into touch and start again. I appreciate that your home 'shop may be limited, but this is a little job that's crying out for a sensitive hand tool approach where the big machines ought to just be used for stock preparation...it's then onto the bench for the good stuff :wink: - Rob
 
Thanks for your thoughts, although I am still going to continue with the direction I'm going in. The lid is going to be completely seperate from the box sides, so getting a dovetail in there isnt a worry. I can udnerstand you on the base being so thick, as I had thought about that also. However, the only sheet material I have available is cheap nasty structural plywood really. To thickness some of my oak down would create a lot of waste in my opinion, as my experience with thicknessers (industrial size anyway) you need your timber to be at least a minimum of 500mm long to get it to run smoothly thru.
 
Simon, why not thickness the base by hand? A little late now, I know, but sometimes we all miss the obvious solution.
Keep the pics coming.

Adam.
 
Adam, I considered ripping a bit of the timber down on the saw and finishing off either on the surfacer or as you've said with a a hand plane. No reason for deciding against it, just didnt... It only needs to hold a few pens and pencils, maybe a 15cm ruler, thats about it.... just a desk top box really thats going to be a nice memento of graduating from university.
 
Cutting the dovetails

It's been a lovely sunny day and so I decided to work outdoors, rather than inside a small corner of the shed/ garage! I've marked out the joints and clearly labelled the area to be cut out.... the only problem I had to begin with was I marked the same area to be cut out on both parts of the joints.... and so..... that lead to a waste of time! But eh.... never mind, thats only one for the offcuts bin! I will have to rip a little bit more timber down at work and spindle mould/ router the rebate out, whichevers quickest..! I finished off the front, back and one side joints though.

Here's my first photo of the joint after being cut with an irwin tennon saw and eclipse coping saw. As you can see the top and bottom part of the joint is mitred, and only the middle is dovetailed, which is what caused the initial confusion in me cutting out the wrong part! (Knew i should've done it in softwood first!)

Image0178.jpg


After cutting the other part of the joint and trimming the joint to fit, parring slowly away with a chisel against a piece of ply, to stop breakout... here's what I ended up with.

Image0179.jpg


All that's left to do with this joint is trim it flush with the sides once I get to the glue-up stage, which needs to be soon.... my deadline is now set for end of June!

I have completed three of the sides now, just got to wait til I go back to work Monday (we are on a week's holiday) so I can use the table saw to neatly cut my replacement piece. I did consider handsaw and rebate plane..... however I've opted for the easy way out! And yes, I have got a router at home, however they make too much mess, so I'd much rather make the mess at work than home.

As always guys, any comments or questions are always welcome. Thanks for reading so far.
 
Hi Rich,
Yep, I'm still on the slippery slope! I try and do some skilled bench work at home when I can.

The job.... well I'm not sure if you know but I lost my job within the furniture company (Nov 10) and they ended up in liquidation(dec 10). Found another job the same week and I'm still at it. I'm now working primarily as a woodworking machinist and have slipped into the company pretty well, sometimes they call upon my carpentry & joinery skills to do more skilled work.

It's been quite a learning curve since I left my first job in Feb 2010. I've learn't that at the end of the day a job is a job and it is there to provide a means of being able to live and pay for the luxuries in life. I'm not doing what I ever intended to do, I always wanted to continue working on the bench making high quality items. However, I am earning more money now than I ever have and I'm in a company where there will be plenty of opportunities for progression within their business (something those small furniture/joinery firms are unwilling to offer). And the company really do look after their staff, with bonuses, pay rises, all-expenses paid xmas parties, health and safety and much more!
 
Cutting Dovetails (Part 2)

Finally, I've managed to spare a bit of time and get back to this! The spindle moulder was setup for a big job, so ended up having to use a router and fence with a straight cutter to do the rebate. With that done, I marked out the joint again and cut it out correctly this time!! Then I spent a bit of time trimming the joints (parring away with the chisel) to get the mitres a bit better than they all were originally, they are now to an acceptable standard and my photo may not show it too well but under clamping pressure the joints pull up really well. I am really happy with the progress so far and I'm now ready to cut a base out and fit it. The next step will be to clean up inside edges and glue up!

Image0181.jpg


Photo showing the overall box and joints.....

Image0182.jpg


Photo showing the rebate for the base...

Image0183.jpg


Above photo shows the front view of the box.

More to follow soon......


I have a question now...... As you can see I have left the joints long.... How's best to get them flush after gluing up? Handsaw? Plane? Sandpaper? Or something else?
 
i tend to pare the extra wood off with a flat and very sharp chisel, just always keep the hands behind the blade very easy to forget.

looking good so far,

adidat
 
Thanks for the advice guys....

Rich, however, as you can tell from my "home" pictures I haven't got a workshop and certainly not a router table! :( I do have a router and a flush trimming cutter though.... lol! But don't think I'd like to try using it freehand in this application also, would have problems with nothing flat to work off, on the router table I'd be able to do a false bed out of ply so wouldn't have that problem.

Adidat, parring the wood off with a chisel? That doesn't sound like something I'd really want to do, I don't think I'd have the desired level of control...

Anymore ideas? I am thinking block plane to remove the bulk of overhang and sandpaper to finish off flush.
 
well if your chisel is flat enough its the perfect way to do it, as-long as your paring on the box side towards to the outcrop it helps if you have a large chisel (1 3/4" 2" etc). just be careful when you are getting near the edge to avoid breakout. its a slower way but gives good results you can use a low angle plane, but its vital is very sharp.

i did these dovetails with the above mentioned technique, any more questions ask away.

adidat

2010-01-15112247.jpg
 
Sorry for being stupid here, but whats the "outcrop"? Towards to outside? If so presumably using a board underneath to stop breakout... I have got decent chisels (hoping to be given a 1/4" & 1" as birthday presents next month to re-complete my set that had been stolen).... and can sharpen up if needs be pretty quickly using my diamond stone.
 
adidat":1r469hdh said:
well if your chisel is flat enough its the perfect way to do it, as-long as your paring on the box side towards to the outcrop it helps if you have a large chisel (1 3/4" 2" etc). just be careful when you are getting near the edge to avoid breakout. its a slower way but gives good results you can use a low angle plane, but its vital is very sharp.

i did these dovetails with the above mentioned technique, any more questions ask away.

adidat

2010-01-15112247.jpg

That is a lovely box.
 
kinda hard to explain, from the picture above imagine the hinges weren't there and i was trying to remove the cherry pins that where protruding (what i meant by outcrop) so i would slide my chisel on the maple surface using it as a reference guide and and just keep slicing away wiggle the chisel left and right. when your near the edge try and come round and cut the the edges going in. that should prevent breakout.

mattty: thank you very much i was quite please with the 86% i got for it.

adidat
 
The Glue-Up

Earlier on, I cut out the base on the table saw and fitted it dry into the rebates.

Before gluing up I double checked that I was happy with all the joints, dry clamping up first. Being happy with all the joints, I took the box apart and sanded up all the inside faces. Using only a sanding block and going with the grain I used 100 & 150 grits to achieve a nice smooth finish as it would be hard to do this once the box is glued up.

Using some evo-stick exterior glue (the reason for exterior glue is I think its stronger than interior) I glued up all the dovetails and squirted a bead of glue all the way around the rebate for the base also. You can see the box glued and clamped up for the night..... Just hope it all looks okay once its all cleaned up.... which will probably be on the weekend now.

Image0184.jpg


Thanks for reading up on my project so far! As always..... an comments and questions are always welcome!
 

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