Will the saw fit?

[garywayne]

Hi all.

As we are no longer moving, my wife has permitted me a plot of land for a work shop. The plot size is 10' x 26'. Would it be feasible to have a xcalibur 806 table saw in that work space?

 

[Anonymous]

Easily

but why the Xcaliber?

There are many cast iron saws availalbe for half the cost and i am sure they will be as good in use

 

[mambo]

maybe hes a :norm: dado fan tony :lol:

 

[Waka]

Gary

You'll have no p[roblem with the 806, I think it comes in at about 6' long with the original rails.

 

[PowerTool]

Should have plenty of space - we want photos of the workshop build,though :wink:

Andrew

 

[garywayne]

Hi guys. Thanks for your replies.

Tony:- I have come into a little cash and I would like something decent for once in my life. Also, there has been nothing but good comment on that saw.

Andrew:- When I start building the work shop there will be pictures. Very soon I will be asking for assistance on the Design forum, and believe me I need a lot of help due to my lack of self confidence. I shall be looking forward to your support and p*** taking. :wink: :lol:

 

[Alf]

...I would like something decent for once in my life.

So why are you buying a tablesaur...? #-o :wink:

 

[Steve Maskery]

Gary
My workshop is about 28' long and varies between just over 10' and 12' in width (the chimney breasts of the house are in the way). I find the limited width to be the biggest factor in limiting my working flexibility.

If your plot is only 10' wide, then by the time you have built the workshop you may have less than 8' internally. If you want to have the tablesaw as the centre of your workshop (physically and operationally) then do not underestimate how much space - not just footprint - you need in order to work comfortably. Remember, to rip a 2.4m board you need over 5m of clear working length.

I think I've said enough about the Xcalibur recently. But I would say that if you do go down the TS route, building a shorter rail system, to the original design, will give you a lot more flexibility. My new rails are 1.2m and still give me 500mm capacity to the fence, without going very far over the footprint of the machine. That's much more useful for the sort of work I do. And let's face it, with a workshop of those dimensions, you are not going to be mass-producing MDF carcases, are you?

Don't forget you will need a dedicated circuit for the Xcalibur, it's not 13A.

I'm sure that, if the popularity of the recent workshop build threads is anything to go by, your adventure will be welcomed here.

Very best wishes with it.

 

[garywayne]

Alf:- I value what you are saying, I am also an avid hand tooler, but don't forget I am on crutches and in some pain. Machines do come in handy for me. I have just ordered some planes, saw files, books and trying to decide which make of bevel edged chisels to buy. I am very tempted with the Blue spruce ones.

Steve:- Could you explain how I would go about building a shorter rail system.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Steve:- Could you explain how I would go about building a shorter rail system.

Gary
The rails on the Xcalibur are standard section steel, they are not bespoke aluminium extrusions like on the Jet and, I believe, the Scheppach. This makes the task of making a shorter system feasible for the average user.

On the front of the saw is a section of 50x50 angle, which in turn supports a 50x50 box section rail. The fence clamps to this rail with a three-point action, making it secure. It also means that it doesn't need to be secured on the back.

The far end of the fence rides on the top edge of another length of angle, 40x40mm, bolted to the back of the saw.

It's all cheap and easy to source, but you will have to transfer the holes accurately from the original rails to the new, as some of them are countersunk and need to line up pretty accurately.

You don't need to alter the fence itself, though you may wish to build a short auxilliary fence, see another thread.

You could also just cut down the originals, but that is burning one's bridges, somewhat.

 

[Alf]

Sorry, Gary, it's my standard tablesaur-lovin' teasing (see winking smilie for proof I was not serious). I suppose it'll make a very stable assembly table. :wink:

Cheers, Alf

 

[woodbloke]

Garywayne wrote:

support and p*** taking.

....plenty of that here :lol:

As an alternative to Steve's idea of needing loads of space to rip a large board, what I have done is shown in the pic below:

...the black thing in the door is lift-upable flap made from some pond liner and the bottom of the rectangular hole is dead level with the top of the saw......sooooo all you have to do with longer stuff is poke it out the door. I have to admit, not my idea, but pinched from the late Jim Kingshott - Rob

 

[garywayne]

Steve:- Thanks for the explanation. Sounds simple enough. Much appreciated.

Alf:- My apologies Alf, I can be a bit slow sometimes, well, most of the time actually.

I could also do with a good assembly table as well.

Rob:- Nice idea. I was thinking of making all work surfaces the same height, as well as the window openings.

 

[woodbloke]

Garywayne wrote:

a good assembly table as well.

Fwiw, the assembly table I use sits behind the saw and doubles as a 'take off' table as well, killing deux birds with one stone. Have a look in the 'User Gallery' for a pic to see what I'm going on about - Rob

 

[syntec4]

Garywayne wrote:

a good assembly table as well.

Fwiw, the assembly table I use sits behind the saw and doubles as a 'take off' table as well, killing deux birds with one stone. Have a look in the 'User Gallery' for a pic to see what I'm going on about - Rob

Yes - me too. Only problem I find is that I'll have something on the 'assembly' table, then find i have to use the saw to rip a length of something #-o Of course then I have to shift everything about to make space.

Lee.

 

[garywayne]

Rob, Lee.

Thanks for the input. Nice idea.

As my w/shop will be long and narrow, I'll have to be careful how things are situated. Otherwise I will have to trapes all the way round the shop.

 

[DomValente]

[/quote] Nice idea. I was thinking of making all work surfaces the same height, as well as the window openings.[/quote]

Not quite the same height.
Did that in my first workshop and often when cutting large boards their weight often caused them to flex a little and hit the top edge of the workbench ](*,)

 

[garywayne]

Dom. Thanks for the tip.