Power line adapters work fine, with one proviso. If the house has more than one ring main, or is wired with radial circuit’s rather than ring main (and there are now many advocating the radial system over the ring) then there will be a loss of transfer rate (bandwidth - aka frequently and incorrectly called speed) as the various circuits will communicate/link via the consumer unit, and that means an attenuation loss; but they will still work well.
Adapters on the same ring - or radial - cats. will perform at more or less to specification. The plug in wifi adapters will also show the same difference in performance as the ethernet ports.
My home has several ring mains and one radial cct. and the “loss/attenuation“ between adapters across the different rings and the radial as above is there, but no great problem; the performance, transfer rate/bandwidth/“speed” between devices on the same ring is max, and while between/across the various rings and the radial is obviously a little less it’s not an issue.
I have both types and find they work well for me, even though the loss, as above, is present, and most noticeable of course with the wifi; the ethernet being more than adequate. I have always used Devolo kit, they were one of the early brands on the scene, have been very reliable, excellent support should one need it.
For me Devolo is the top brand, though not available outside Europe and the UK. I’m still using their 500/550/600 Mbps series and no intention yet to upgrade to their, or any other, mesh systems. The series I have are still around on the big river site, and elsewhere, and the prices for a diminishing supply do vary but ok. The newer mesh adapters are not so cheap regardless of brand.
I prefer ethernet connections where possible; more stable, secure which is why I advocate power line adapters - if not able or willing to run cat 5 (or 6) to wherever. One can run cat 5 etc. externally (there is proper weather proof cable) from a central point - where the router would be situate; and one could feed those runs either from the main router (if it has enuff ports) or us a switch - that latter being my preference; and perhaps that switch being one which provides PoE (power over ethernet) option, as that function might be useful at some time or other.
Drilling small holes through external brick work ought not be an issues, and cables terminate at each destination in a wall outlet. Important to clip the cable securely on the external walls, and allow a wee spare loop where each cable exits/enters accordingly; and also to ensure where possible those exit/entry points are sealed externally - though with such small cable and thus hole in the wall(s) not really a serious issue.
Using a power line adapter would still allow to use a spare router as another wifi access point, and also provide more local ethernet ports at that location. Using ethernet to each, or some locations, will give the same performance as if in the same room and into the router, or on the same ring as the router. Using ethernet to other locations would also give a better end result if installing other routers there as wifi access points/extenders, or simply adding a local hub (these days more likely a switch) there.
If able to run cat-5/6 internally I’d certainly go that route, using external runs only where essential. I have two cat runs to a small rear bedroom/office as I want the option to put the primary router there rather than on the ground floor, should I wish; and may run another external cat to a point where I can provide ethernet (PoE too) rather than wifi for a camera monitoring the rear garden. The front of house has other acceptable options in that regard. If running external cable don’t use the cheapest; get properly spec’d and shielded (if possible) cable. Do not internal cable externally - unless running them through conduit. I use external grade cable internally and externally by choice.
Terminating cat-5/6 in wall boxes at both ends is relatively simple, use the correct tool. Cat-5/6 has a max run of 100metres before there is need to insert some form of boost; not likely an issue in most domestic situation. Internal runs best kept several feet away from main wiring where possible, and if the have cross main cable runs, do so at-ninety degrees. Obviously where they may terminate they will come close to mains wiring, but that won’t be an issue
Adapters on the same ring - or radial - cats. will perform at more or less to specification. The plug in wifi adapters will also show the same difference in performance as the ethernet ports.
My home has several ring mains and one radial cct. and the “loss/attenuation“ between adapters across the different rings and the radial as above is there, but no great problem; the performance, transfer rate/bandwidth/“speed” between devices on the same ring is max, and while between/across the various rings and the radial is obviously a little less it’s not an issue.
I have both types and find they work well for me, even though the loss, as above, is present, and most noticeable of course with the wifi; the ethernet being more than adequate. I have always used Devolo kit, they were one of the early brands on the scene, have been very reliable, excellent support should one need it.
For me Devolo is the top brand, though not available outside Europe and the UK. I’m still using their 500/550/600 Mbps series and no intention yet to upgrade to their, or any other, mesh systems. The series I have are still around on the big river site, and elsewhere, and the prices for a diminishing supply do vary but ok. The newer mesh adapters are not so cheap regardless of brand.
I prefer ethernet connections where possible; more stable, secure which is why I advocate power line adapters - if not able or willing to run cat 5 (or 6) to wherever. One can run cat 5 etc. externally (there is proper weather proof cable) from a central point - where the router would be situate; and one could feed those runs either from the main router (if it has enuff ports) or us a switch - that latter being my preference; and perhaps that switch being one which provides PoE (power over ethernet) option, as that function might be useful at some time or other.
Drilling small holes through external brick work ought not be an issues, and cables terminate at each destination in a wall outlet. Important to clip the cable securely on the external walls, and allow a wee spare loop where each cable exits/enters accordingly; and also to ensure where possible those exit/entry points are sealed externally - though with such small cable and thus hole in the wall(s) not really a serious issue.
Using a power line adapter would still allow to use a spare router as another wifi access point, and also provide more local ethernet ports at that location. Using ethernet to each, or some locations, will give the same performance as if in the same room and into the router, or on the same ring as the router. Using ethernet to other locations would also give a better end result if installing other routers there as wifi access points/extenders, or simply adding a local hub (these days more likely a switch) there.
If able to run cat-5/6 internally I’d certainly go that route, using external runs only where essential. I have two cat runs to a small rear bedroom/office as I want the option to put the primary router there rather than on the ground floor, should I wish; and may run another external cat to a point where I can provide ethernet (PoE too) rather than wifi for a camera monitoring the rear garden. The front of house has other acceptable options in that regard. If running external cable don’t use the cheapest; get properly spec’d and shielded (if possible) cable. Do not internal cable externally - unless running them through conduit. I use external grade cable internally and externally by choice.
Terminating cat-5/6 in wall boxes at both ends is relatively simple, use the correct tool. Cat-5/6 has a max run of 100metres before there is need to insert some form of boost; not likely an issue in most domestic situation. Internal runs best kept several feet away from main wiring where possible, and if the have cross main cable runs, do so at-ninety degrees. Obviously where they may terminate they will come close to mains wiring, but that won’t be an issue
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