which way would you?

[dicktimber]

Cut a 8 inch long 45 degree mitre on 4 pieces of timber 20mm thick, so that when four pieces were glued together they would,
1. make a perfect oblong shape
2. each oposite side was cut exactly the same width after the mitre is cut?

I have to say this always seems a big task to me!


Mikeee

 

[DaveL]

I need a picture of what you are trying to do. :-k

 

[9fingers]

Not quite sure what you are trying to make so agree with Dave.

but generally the table saw is good for angles and repeat cuts.

Set table saw blade over to 45 degrees. Run test cuts to confirm angle.

Set your fence to required width for one pair of opposing sides. Cut two pieces.

Set your fence to required width for the other pair of opposing sides. Cut final two pieces.

Simples!

HTH

Bob

 

[devonwoody]

If using a table saw, start with 4 pieces cut at 90%.
Then use a sled with stops set so that pieces are alway cut to the length required.

A chop/mitre saw for me usually does not do the job accurately enough. I think the blade flexes or or the saw is not stable enough.

 

[kayak23]

I made a cabinet once, 6 foot high, just under a foot square. It was mitred at each corner the whole length and later split to form doors.

I did the long mitres on the spindle moulder which is ideal. May be worth getting someone to do it for you for the sake of a few quid and a good job.

Table saw would in my opinion not give a good enough jointing face as it is likely to back-cut etc over a long length, plus you would generally run the timber with the mitre face up, meaning when you did the second one you would have a thin edge running on the fence which would try to get under the fence constantly. This could be gotten around by a temporary running board tacked to the material.

When setting up the mitre cut on the spindle, I made it leave a very small flat on the edge so that the support could be maintained on the fence when machining.

 

[dicktimber]

I have tried the table saw route in the past and find that the first angle cut, then positioned against the fence to cut the second angle, only has asharp edge to locate up against the fence.
Any slight movement when pushing past the blade,results in an out of square, or wavy edge that doesn't match when mated with the other parts.
I would appreciate comments on this method, or what I am doing wrong if it should be easy to do?

The sled method, is one I have never considered, and thinking about it could have a mechanical clamp to hold the stock in place while pushed up against a stop.
Maybe this method would give less movement when cutting the mitre, and be more accurate??
Mikee

 

[devonwoody]

dicktimber, the other day I used two screws into the waste portion of a mitre instead of hold down clamps on a sled. No movement whatsoever when joint went past the blade.

 

[9fingers]

Mikee,

To avoid the sharp edge of the cut mitre creeping under the fence when cutting the second one, re-position the TS fence to the other side of the blade so the blade tilts away from the fence.

Bob

 

[kayak23]

I have tried the table saw route in the past and find that the first angle cut, then positioned against the fence to cut the second angle, only has asharp edge to locate up against the fence. I would appreciate comments on this method, or what I am doing wrong if it should be easy to do?

A simple length of mdf/ply which is parallel can be temporarily tacked onto the workpiece and then that can be run against the fence...

 

[9fingers]

I have tried the table saw route in the past and find that the first angle cut, then positioned against the fence to cut the second angle, only has asharp edge to locate up against the fence. I would appreciate comments on this method, or what I am doing wrong if it should be easy to do?

A simple length of mdf/ply which is parallel can be temporarily tacked onto the workpiece and then that can be run against the fence...

This method loses all the inherent accuracy of repeat cuts against a fence.

All that is needed is to cut the mitre with the short face downwards.

Unless I'm being thick (always possible!) I can't really understand the problem that Dicktimber is having.

Bob

Bob

 

[dicktimber]

Bob,
You don't know half the problems I have!!!!!!??????? :lol: :lol: :lol:
Thank God today they are only wood problems and not women problems???
Ahhhhhhhh those were the days my friend......

Mikeeee

 

[Digit]

I use a sled mikee with stops, but as you say, the second cut can be a problem.
My solution is to cut the face of the stop back at an angle so that the previously cut mitre is not registering on the sharp corner.
In addition it is better to cut one mitre to the left of the blade and the opposite end mitre to the right of the blade.
If your 45 degree cut is not then spot on the corner will still be 90 degrees,

Roy.

 

[Chris Knight]

For accurate work, I always knife the lines and if need be, refine the initial saw cuts with a plane. In this case, I would use a 45° shooting board.

 

[crazylilting]

Is this a trick question?

Wouldn't that be a square?

Any how i'd use my compound sliding miter saw. I actually do what your saying when i want to check if it is still cutting accurately. I put the four pieces together and if they fit to make a square with no gaps i'm happy.

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Cut a 8 inch long 45 degree mitre on 4 pieces of timber 20mm thick, so that when four pieces were glued together they would,
1. make a perfect oblong shape
2. each oposite side was cut exactly the same width after the mitre is cut?

I have to say this always seems a big task to me!

Mikeee

A good method is to use a table saw and an adjustable cross cut fence. Angle the fence to the necessary 45º. Next take a piece of trued up scrap and cut a section off at 45º. Put this to one side.

Take all the parts you need to mitre at both ends and mitre just one end of each by laying the wide face down on the table.

Attach the mitred piece of scrap cut earlier and put to one side to the angled cross cut fence and clamp or screw it on securely so that the mitred end of the scrap forms a trap into which the existing mitred ends of your job parts jam into the 45º formed between the mitred scrap and the fence.

Mitre cut the remaining ends off the pieces you need. Obviously if two parts are long and two parts are shorter you need to move the clamped on stop after cutting two parts to the right length to cut the second pair of parts.

This basic, accurate, reliable (if done properly) and effective method is adaptable to other saws, eg, sliding mitre saw, chop saw, radial arm saw, etc. I think it is probably fairly obvious that a sharp dedicated cross cut pattern saw-blade is best for this kind of work. Slainte.

 

[kayak23]

I have tried the table saw route in the past and find that the first angle cut, then positioned against the fence to cut the second angle, only has asharp edge to locate up against the fence. I would appreciate comments on this method, or what I am doing wrong if it should be easy to do?

A simple length of mdf/ply which is parallel can be temporarily tacked onto the workpiece and then that can be run against the fence...

This method loses all the inherent accuracy of repeat cuts against a fence.

Not if you know how to use a ruler.... :wink: