Which tuffsaw bandsaw blades?

[Farmer Giles]

I bought a Startrite 351E about 16 years ago, and I have just about used up the free blades that came with it, I think it may be time to buy some new ones.

I'm a lazy so and so when it comes to changing blades for different uses, so looking at the tuffsaw site, I'm thinking of buying the 3/4 Varitooth blades as they cope with a wider range of different timber depth, and possibly two widths, a 5/8" or maybe 3/4" for resawing, and a 3/8" for light scrolling etc. That should keep blade changing to a minimum and I still have an unused 1/4" blade somewhere if I need tight curves, its a 6tpi skip.

A 3/4" blade is normally pushing the tension capability on the saw a bit, it is rated to 20mm but I find it struggles with the normal 3/4" but these tuffsaw premium blades are made from thinner steel and need less tension so I'm leaning towards 3/4"

Most of my cutting is either >12mm ply or resawing timber > 50mm.

What blades are the go to blades for you and has anybody tried the Varitooth blades?

Cheers
Andy

 

[ColeyS1]

If you pay a little extra for m42 blades, you'll find they seem to last forever. Generally I only replace an m42 blade when I've knackered it myself. This is usually by kinking and changing it (to do curvy work) or having small slithers wedge between it and the table insert. They just keep going and going.
Cheers
Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

 

[Alexam]

Try and have a chat with Ian John on the phone. He is very busy, but if you can catch him, he is very knowledgable and extreemly hepful. He may suggest you only need 2 or 3 in total but they will be right if you explain what you need them for. Best Sawblade maker around.
Malcolm

 

[MikeG.]

As ColeyS1 says, M42 blades last forever, with 2 downsides: they cost a little more, and they have a wider kerf. For jack-of-all-trades use I would have nothing else.

 

[Beau]

1/2" 3 tpi is incredibly versatile.

Cuts curves no problem but expect a bit of cleaning up of the edges but it rips incredibly well. I have tried bigger blades for ripping and not noticed much difference other than they are more forgiving on the set up. With a small blade for re-sawing just be extra careful the fence is perfectly aligned with the line the blade wants to take.

I will happily re-saw a 10" deep board with the sharp 1/2" blade. I do lots of ripping and don't even own a 3/4 blade.

 

[Farmer Giles]

Thanks guys

I've gone for two 1/2" blades. An M42 3TPI for ripping loads of oak I have, and for daily use an 1/2" 3/4 varitooth that can cut thinner stock and I have unused startrite 1/4" and 3/8" 6 TPI blades if I need to do thinner wiggly stuff.

I have also decided to buy some roller guides for the saw, just the top ones and not the cheaper Axminster ones. I hate the blocks with a vengeance, I get on better with them than I did but still hate them! Yandles sell them, the missus wants a small pruning knife from them, the rollers will just fall into the same basket :wink: Last purchase for a while me thinks!

Cheers
Andy

 

[MikeJhn]

Thought you may like to see this thread: new-bandsaw-guides-from-axminster-t104943.html

I did not like the Yandles guide as the rear thrust bearing is ninety degrees out of position, just the wrong way for a bearing to be used, it also reduce's the cutting depth on the Record Power RS350S, may not on yours, but it was a serious loss for me.

Mike

 

[Farmer Giles]

Thanks Mike, I hadn't click the buy button yet so will take a closer look

Cheers
Andy