which plane for a first buy?

[mpooley]

Hi all
I am a dedicated machine woodworker with most of the toys and a lovely big workshop.

But I am hankering to try some proper woodworking with some decent hand tools. I have a rubbish old stanley jack plane with a cracked base and an awful block plane which i hate so thats why i dont use it

I was thinking of a clifton 4 - 4 1/2 or 5 but am so ignorant that Im not sure of the difference

I was also thinking of possibly making a wooden block plane with some plans I found ontinternet? what do you think?

Mike

 

[Calpol]

I'd probably go for a low angle smoother, with straight sides so you can shoot as well...

 

[Digit]

I've not used a Clifton Mike nor have I used one one of Philly's, but if I were buying now I would buy from Phil, (no we are not related! :lol: )
The reason I say that is I find that, generally, wooden planes tend to be lighter and better balanced.
I do NOT go with the weight helps, scenario. I find that a properly set up plane, metal or wood, does not need weight to get the iron to bite. I make an exception when shooting as the added inertia of the heavier plane IS an advantage IMO, others may well disagree of course.

Roy.

 

[Anonymous]

Mike

I would say a Clifton (I prefer LN, but Clifton are superb) 4.5 rather than #4 as it has a little more weight and so is less likely to skip across the surface. I don't get on well with a #4, but my #4.5s I have 2) are amongst my favourite planes.
I find bevel up planes are over-rated when compared to BD, mainly due to their low weight, but they are still good planes (for the record, i have 1 LV and 1 LN bevel up plane and used to own a LN bevel up smoother but sold it as my bevel down #4.5 is so much better)

Really, I would recommend you get 2 planes, one for surface preparation and one for final finish/smoothing.

Depending on the job, I use a different set of planes but for general use a Jack (#5) set to a course cut of say 4-6 thou and a 4.5 set to around a thou or 2 would be an good set and cover most uses,




If you're interested, for large pieces, I use #5.5 or more often a #6 for rough working (8 thou or so cut with curved blade) followed by a #7 (Clifton) to get a good surface with 4 thou or so cut and then a #4.5. (See Chris Schwarz's DVD Course, Medium, Fine)

For smaller pieces, I use a #5.5 for rough work set at 4-6 thou and a #3 for final smoothing

I use the LV BU smoother on very difficult wood with a high angle on the blade

 

[wizer]

Go with a smoother for sure. My first was the LV LAS. It can be used as a shooter. I love this plane, the whispy shavings I got off it with no fettling was a revelation and the finish on the wood (which is the only important thing) was superb. Highly Recommended.

 

[Aled Dafis]

Let's face it, this will not be your only plane, you might think it now, but rest assured, it's only your first step on the slope.

If we assume for the time being that this will be your only plane, I'd suggest a 5 1/2 Clifton, this can be used as a Jack plane, but will also reliably true edges up to about three feet or so, and will work beautifully as a smoother. David Charlseworth uses a 5 1/2 as a "super smoother", and he knows a thing or two about planing.

In the (not too distant) future you could then add to your "collection" with a #4 1/2 as your dedicated smoother, a #7 as your dedicated jointer. You might also like to add a #3 as a small smoother for more delicate tasks.

I already have a Clifton #3 and a #5 1/2, and as I've mentioned around here many tims in the past, I find the Clifton irons far superior to the A2 irons supplied by LN and Veritas. I'm such a fan of Clifton planes that I'll be adding a #7 to my name this week hopefully. :lol:

 

[Karl]

My first buy recommendation - Clifton #7. Joint, shoot and smooth with it.

Cheers

Karl

 

[Night Train]

If it helps, my prefered plane is a 5 1/2. Small enough for general bench work and big enough to flatten a surface and with weight for shooting.

It is seconded by a block plane for finer work.

When I work away from my bench I generally only take these two with maybe a shoulder plane if I need it.

I agree that weight shouldn't need to be essential, I find that a little wax and a good action make even a small block plane work well on a large board.

 

[Paul Chapman]

My first buy recommendation - Clifton #7. Joint, shoot and smooth with it.

I agree. If I could have only one plane, it would be my Clifton #7.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Ironballs]

I got an old Record 5 1/2 off fleabay for not much that after a mild restoration has become a go to plane. Does lots of jobs very well. That said I do now have somewhere in the region of 15 planes and I'm beyond any kind of help :shock:

 

[woodbloke]

Loads of good ones out there...I'd go for the LV LA Jack which will do everything. Best advice though is to try before you buy - Rob

 

[matt]

I keep thinking about buying a good plane but find myself veering away from the idea until I've learnt how to use and maintain my existing planes. Blade sharpening is something I've yet to get to a level I'd be happy with before I'd let myself loose on anything more expensive - I'm getting there but happier to keep learning on something less precious for the time being.

Maybe food for thought given what you say about using machines and the state of your current planes. Why not start with a second hand Record or Stanley - something "old school".

 

[wizer]

Confused yet Mike?

 

[mpooley]

Confused yet Mike?

ER yes :shock: :shock: :shock:

 

[newt]

LV LA JACK

 

[Mikey R]

I was in a similar situation a short while ago. I started with a Stanley no 4, tho now I think a no 5 or 5 1/2 would have been a more versatile first choice.

It is however very handy for small projects, since getting a no 7 I appreciate how handy it is as a small plane. I dont really use it for smoothing though, as most if my stuff is curved I tend to use scrapers and wet n dry paper.

I took the advice of some very wise folk on here and upgraded the blade.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Mike,

If you attend the hand tool event at West Dean on 6/7 June, you will be able to see and try the top-end planes and quiz the experts on how to get the best out of them. Well worth it in my view.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[mpooley]

Mike,

If you attend the hand tool event at West Dean on 6/7 June, you will be able to see and try the top-end planes and quiz the experts on how to get the best out of them. Well worth it in my view.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

I would really love to but: i have a wedding (not mine) on the sixth and west dean is a heck of a long way from me

Im really leaning towards the 5 1/2 clifton at the moment it seems maybe the best general purpose plane for my first one.
Clifton because I like what i.ve read but mainly cos its British and I like to help our guys out where i can :?

Mike

 

[Vann]

I keep thinking about buying a good plane but find myself veering away from the idea until I've learnt how to use and maintain my existing planes. Blade sharpening is something I've yet to get to a level I'd be happy with before I'd let myself loose on anything more expensive - I'm getting there but happier to keep learning on something less precious for the time being.

Maybe food for thought given what you say about using machines and the state of your current planes. Why not start with a second hand Record or Stanley - something "old school".

I reckon, get yourself one decent plane, so you know what standard you're aiming for with old doer-upper planes.

Mikepooley, The LV LAJ is said to be one of the most versatile of the modern decent planes, but I know what you mean about buying a Clifton (my Clifton No.3 is in transit at present \/ ).

Cheers, Vann.

 

[TobyB]

My "first" good plane is a Clifton 5 1/2 (after reading lots of similar posts) and I'm delighted with it ...