Which first, Osmo worktop oil or siilicone?

[John Brown]

I have to make running repairs around a ceramic sink sitting in a wooden worktop. I am wondering whether I should strip off as much of the Osmo worktop oil as possible around the interface before re-applying the silicone fillet, and then re-oiling the top, or whether the silicone would adhere better to the Osmo than to the bare wood, so re-oiling then re-siliconeing. Any insight welcome.

 

[Zeddedhed]

Sand back the Osmo, repair the Silicone, then once the silicone is dry re-osmo-ify the thing.

The silicone will debond from the Osmo in a heartbeat.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Yes. Osmo can be buffed up, so there's wax on the surface.

 

[John Brown]

OK, thanks.

 

[Jbonevia]

In my kitchen i have solid oak worktops and a ceramic sink. I have tried several different approaches but what has worked for me is applying osmo wood protector and osmo polyx oil to the worktop including around the edge and sides of the cutout, then letting it thoroughly dry and installing the sink and sealing with white pu40 polyurethane sealant - about £4 from toolstation.

I felt this gave better protection as the osmo extends underneath the sink lip and the pu40 seems to seal it without peeling off. I did find siliicone based sealant didnt stick for very long but i also found that by sealing first and then oiling that water was getting in between the sealant and the oil and causing water marks.

I am quite particular about wiping up spilt liquids on the benchtops now but have resigned myself to a yearly sand and re-oil to remove any staining.

My next worktops - granite or corian!

 

[John Brown]

Just searched and found this thread, as I am replacing a length of worktop, and will have the same dilemma. I notice it was two to one in favour of silicone first. Although that's a fairly large ratio, it's a statistically insignificant sample size, so I wondered if anyone else wanted to weigh in...

 

[Beau]

If it were me would seal the worktop thoroughly first then silicone or maybe use a neoprene type seal as it then is much easier to remove the sink when major maintenance is required.. Reason being that yes the silicone my or may not perfectly bond to the oiled top but if water does ingress though between the silicone and the oiled surface the wood is still protected by the oil. I took this approach to our kitchen 7 years ago and it was perfect for 5 years. Admittedly there are now some marks tight up to the edge of the sink but think this is to be expected.

 

[Nelsun]

I made and fitted our kitchen sink unit well over a year ago. I oiled first (Osmo wood protector followed by 2 coats of poly-x) and then frightened the wallet for some Plumbers Gold to seal everything in with. I figured any problems with a sealant would be easier to deal with than water getting into the wood. 18ish months isn't a long time in the life of a kitchen sink mind you but it's still looking pretty much good as new.

 

[Racers]

Oil first to seal the wood then silicone, so if the silicone doesn't stick then the wood is still protected.

Its what I did the my sink and it has worked very well.

Pete

 

[John Brown]

Hmm. Now two to one in the other direction! Maybe I'll just mix them together...

 

[RogerBoyle]

Another oil then silicone vote here

 

[cornishjoinery]

I would take words of professionals rather than someone who fitted their own kitchen 8 years ago.

I do a number of bespoke kitchens, you never use silicone first as where ever you spread it the oil wont penetrate, you will end up with different coloured wood, one where the clear silicone has covered it and the other where the oil has been applied and soaked in. Plus if the silicone fails then water will start to penetrate the wood.

At least 4-6 coats of osmo, lightly or buffed between coats and then apply the sealant.