Which bandsaw to cut raised access floor tiles?

[littlehand]

Hi there,

I'm new to this forum but wonder if anyone on here has any advice on a bandsaw to purchase?

We currently use Mobile Applications MA615 bandsaws on site to cut raised access floor tiles. The tiles are basically 42mm thickness overall with a chipboard core and galvanized steel casing, PVC vinyl covering. The MA615 saws tend to "wander" and produce a dodgy cut, so we're looking for something new to try out.

The chosen weapon must be able to cut these tiles as a maximum, have enough power not to stick or stall, I could also do with asking if anyone knows how many TPI / type of blade would be ideal?

I've been looking at the Startrite 351 (not sure on the difference between this and a 351S?) and Elektra saws. whatever we choose, it must be easily transportable on a sack truck and lift-able with two people.

Finally, 110v would be preferable but we can run a converter if needs be.

Any advice would be gratefully received - I am looking for something with a very straight cut more like a large workshop bandsaw, but without the weight!

Thanks in advance and if anyone is selling anything in the Cheltenham - London M4 corridor, please PM!

regards
LH

 

[marcros]

do you only need to make straight cuts?

 

[Racers]

Well it could be that you need a different blade for your existing saw rather than a different saw, have a word with Tuff Saws they seem to get lots of recommendations by people on here.

http://www.tuffsaws.co.uk/


Pete

 

[Steve Maskery]

Good advice from Pete, as usual.
Don't change your saw, change your blade. Ian at Tuffsaws will give you excellent advice and only sell you what you really need. Those tiles are a formidable material. Ask about M42 blades.
S

 

[littlehand]

Yes, only straight cuts...

Regarding changing blades, we have tried but the guard mechanism on the MA is simply crap, so we're having issues.

I am set on an alternative saw now, only a question of which one we buy

 

[marcros]

would a track saw do these? (a question to the forum)

 

[RobinBHM]

The bandsaw you have seems like it has 4 wheels and quite a deep throat. Whilst these features mean a small footprint with a big capacity, the deep throat and multiple wheels will compromise the blade tension. I would definitely start by talking to Ian at tuffsaws and see if a straight cut is attainable. If not a 2 wheel machine will provide a lot more tension.

If the tiles are 600mm x 600mm it makes me wonder if a machine equivalent to a tile saw but with a metal cutting hss saw blade. The saws Im thinking of are those where the saw blade and motor slide on a carriage a bit like a cross cut saw but the rails are supported at both ends.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Just about any floor-standing, meaty BS would do the job, it's not a big ask, really. I have a Scheppach 5 and it would handle it no problem, with the right blade. We have an old Startrite in our Community Workshop, and if it had the more modern blade guide system, it, too, would do the job well.

As long as you stay away from entry-level machines you should be fine. Startrite, Hammer, Scheppach, even a big Record or Axminster would do the job.
S

 

[littlehand]

Steve, that what's I thought, one of the floor standing machines should piss through those tiles. I've cut wet, fresh oak with bandsaws in the past and no problem, the issue seems to be getting something portable and decent. Blade wise, I think I'll take the advice and equip the new machine with the correct blade...

 

[Steve Maskery]

The issue with smaller machines is that of tensioning the blade correctly. Just because the wheel is 1" wide, it doesn't mean that the machine can tension a 1" blade, even a thin-kerf one, let alone an M42. An, of course, portability is a matter of what transport you have available...
But really, any mid-sized, floor-standing machine could tackle that.
S

 

[WellsWood]

There is good advice here about bigger, floor standing machines, with fewer wheels being more capable of straight cuts. But given that you're working on site and cutting 600x600 panels I would have thought your primary needs are throat depth and mobility. Whilst the Basato 5 and similar machines are great in a workshop setting, but at 6' tall and up to (in the case of the Scheppach) 192Kg, I can't see it being practical to hump one about on site, sack truck or not. Definitely another vote here for contacting Tuffsaws for blade advice before shelling out on a new machine, Ian really knows his stuff and you'd be hard pressed to do business with a more amenable chap. Perhaps have a look at your blade guides as well, make sure they are properly adjusted and see if there is any way to upgrade them if you think they are substandard.

Don't forget also that most sites do not allow 240v tools to be used which will rule out most light trade machines.

edit: doh! you already said 110v as a preference - are converters allowed? I thought this practice was disallowed on most sites. If you're adamant about trying something like a Startrite 352 you could do worse than have a look at a company near Sidcup called Home And Workshop Macinery - they have a good selection of used stuff that you can see in the flesh to judge if they are practical.

 

[littlehand]

There is good advice here about bigger, floor standing machines, with fewer wheels being more capable of straight cuts. But given that you're working on site and cutting 600x600 panels I would have thought your primary needs are throat depth and mobility. Whilst the Basato 5 and similar machines are great in a workshop setting, but at 6' tall and up to (in the case of the Scheppach) 192Kg, I can't see it being practical to hump one about on site, sack truck or not. Definitely another vote here for contacting Tuffsaws for blade advice before shelling out on a new machine, Ian really knows his stuff and you'd be hard pressed to do business with a more amenable chap. Perhaps have a look at your blade guides as well, make sure they are properly adjusted and see if there is any way to upgrade them if you think they are substandard.

Don't forget also that most sites do not allow 240v tools to be used which will rule out most light trade machines.

edit: doh! you already said 110v as a preference - are converters allowed? I thought this practice was disallowed on most sites. If you're adamant about trying something like a Startrite 352 you could do worse than have a look at a company near Sidcup called Home And Workshop Macinery - they have a good selection of used stuff that you can see in the flesh to judge if they are practical.

I had a look this morning at a Kity bandsaw but to be honest it was 16 years old and had done a fair amount of work. The shop I went to (specialist saw shop in Tewkesbury) had lots of Record (Elektra) machines and all were fairly heavy / cumbersome.

Regarding blades, HSS with 20+ TPI will clog very quickly with the chipboard core, TCT around 14 TPI seems to be the best kind of blade, just need a machine to put it in!

The problem with our Mobile Applications kit is it's very flimsy and gets battered easily. Ours is really clapped out and needs lots doing to it, plus we need something in the workshop. We don't really move the machines around much, as they will be generally on a site for weeks or months, not days or hours. Throat size on these is massive, nearly 700mm - this doesn't usually matter as 300mm is half a tile so a 300mm throat would suffice. For awkward 90 / 45 cuts we'd be using a jigsaw in any case.

Regarding 230v / 110v on site, it's generally accepted that the device can be plumbed in to a proper RCD protected (SY braid or SWA cabled) circuit and made semi permanent for the duration of the contract, or used in our high top van if 110v is not possible. We have a couple of three phase, liquid cooled bandsaws for cutting steel girders and the like; Those simply cannot be 110v. I believe there was a case in the European courts not too long ago regarding foreign workers and it not being feasible to purchase new 110v tools to come and work in the UK, ruling was to allow 230v with the addition of a RCD, I think.

I've been looking at the Metabo BAS317 as a cheap, lightweight option - anyone know these?

LH