Which Band Saw

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Daven

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I am on a limited budget and have limited space but have narrowed my choice to the Jet JWBS-9 here or the SIP 01484 10" here

I guess there will always be a time when I wish I had got better and bigger, but for a DIY'er that mainly keeps to small projects and cutting hard wood for the lathe which one should I go for?

The SIP cuts deeper, but only 15mm wider but then the Jet is lighter which could be useful if I need to move it!

Any advice on choice or quality? :wink:

Thanks

Dave
 
What about this one:
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Axmi ... 462917.htm

It's got 2 speeds which is a bonus and I know a couple of people with this bandsaw that have been very pleased with it.
The blade that comes with it is rubbish though and with a decent blade on it it's not a bad little machine.
It's a little bit more expensive but comes with the stand.

Out of the 2 that you've picked then I would go for the SIP one, simply because it uses bigger blades so you will have a better choice of blades when you need them.

Ian
 
Thanks Ian - I did look at that one but I don't have the floor space and would prefer to be able to move it from workshop to garage if required.

The tip about the blade is interesting, I hadn't thought of that!

Thanks

Dave
 
I have the 12" version of the SIP saw (01486) and I cannot really fault it for the money, if that helps. Most important thing with any bandsaw though is to keep a good-quality, sharp blade in the machine. The ones that come supplied are barely worth keeping.
 
Thanks OPJ,

Is there a particular brand of blade that is worth getting?

Regards

Dave
 
Thanks guys - will have a look at the blades when I have reached a decision - looking like the SIP at the moment!

Regards

Dave
 
I have the 10" SIP bandsaw which i have had for almost 2 years. No complaints, except when it arrives take the blade off and bin it. As said replace with Dragon blades. I am now wanting to up grade to the Axminster AWESBS. I am looking for a better fence.
 
Shedhead, Axminster do sell a Small Rip Fence upgrade for bandsaws, which may be of interest to you. Not sure how it compares size-wise to your bandsaw's table though. :)
 
I have both the bandsaw fence from axminster, and a blade from dragon saws. The fence I bought was the 50quid one, but there is one on e-bay at the moment for less. Much less. It is a good fence, and lets me rip wider, as I have used it on an extension table.

Dragon saws are excellent, the difference in the cut was amazing. I mean, I had heard all the talk, but could it really make that much difference?
You bet it did! It was the difference between being able to do something, and not being able to do it, not just doing it better.

Hope this helps; the fence is expensive (but where else do you get one?) , but the BS blade was very well priced.

Neil
 
Thanks Guys - have gone for the SIP from Yandles. Hopefully it will be delivered this week!

What sort of price are the Dragon blades?

Regards

Dave
 
Well I finally got the SIP last night - unpacked it worked my way through the Anglo-Japanese manual pushed the go button and nothing!

Opened the top door and a bit of plastic fell out which was part of the contact switch :x I have glued it on to test and it worked fine and have emailed the supplier!

Also found the manual a bit vague on how to tension the blade - is there a guide on how tight it should be?

Regards

Dave
 
Is there not a tensioning scale on the back of your saw? It isn't critical, the minimum you need is enough to prevent the blade from slipping off the wheels... Most people pluck the blade and listen for a nice note - not a high note, if it sounds too high then you're also putting too much strain on your saw. An alternative method is to raise the guard up all the way and push the blade from side to side, looking for about 6mm deflection.

To be honest with you, on most saws, the guides for this are a waste of time. If you're manual specifies it will take a 5/8" wide blade, then the reality is that it will only be able to tension a 1/2" blade. You may find it helps to order your blades 5mm short of the specified length - this can make any given scale more accurate and also means you don't have to crank it up as far (less chance of stripping the thread, etc.)

Only set the tracking and rest of the guides once you've set your tension. It's also good practice to release the tension and relax strain on the saw's body when you're unlikely to be using the saw for several days.
 
Thanks OPJ,

I didn't get much time to have a play with the saw last night so not sure if there is a guide - the manual did not seem to mention one - just said the blade should be in the middle of the gap!

I did 'pluck' the blade - dunno why but it sounded right after a couple of turns and the test cut I made was fine - but your tips are most welcome, thanks.

Just hope I get the contact switch replaced!

Regards

Dave
 

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