What wood glue do you use? (merged)

[LFS19]

I was wondering what brand of wood glue people were using and would recommend?

Thanks allot

mode edit - duplicate posts now merged together

 

[JJ1]

Titebond I, Titebond II, Cascamite, D4, 502

 

[LFS19]

Titebond I, Titebond II, Cascamite, D4, 502

Thanks, will check them out

 

[Logger]

Titebond for me, different types, but generally titebond 3 which is waterproof is the one i get through most. It is also slightly slower drying than some which csn help for bigger glue ups.

Cheers

Nick

 

[LFS19]

Titebond for me, different types, but generally titebond 3 which is waterproof is the one i get through most. It is also slightly slower drying than some which csn help for bigger glue ups.

Cheers

Nick

Thanks for the heads up, I'll check it out

 

[LFS19]

Not sure why the the thread doubled, sorry

 

[DiscoStu]

I use titebond as well. Mainly 1 for indoor use. I also have 2 but never used 3, but I would if I was doing something for outside. I don't really know why I use it over any other brand, probably because Axminster sell it so I pick it up in there as and when I need it. It seems to work well so have never changed. Any other recommendations?


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[profchris]

For luthiery, hot hide, Titebond I and CA, depending on the application.

This seems to me a hard question to answer without knowing what you're glueing. If I made boats I'd use different glues.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

I've just bought 502 for less than £4 from B&M, and can pick up D4 (both per litre) for about £6.50 (which is totally waterproof). Both are good. I've never been inclined to pay the premium for Titebond.
O.P. - be aware of the difference between "water resistant" and "waterproof" when buying.

 

[woodpig]

Titebond (3) here as well, although I have bought some Cascamite to trial at some point.

 

[IHc1vtr+]

Gorilla glue, the white kind and also the brown stuff (cures using the moisture in the wood).

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GORILLA-GLUE- ... 3_53kmWJ9A

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/532ml-Gorilla ... SwX6VTxof7

 

[custard]

These are the glues I use regularly,

Titebond Original (for fast setting in a commercial environment when I need to crack on with a job)
Titebond Extend (for a tiny bit of extra open time and much better heat resistance, i.e. the veneer on a desk top that will sit beneath a hot lap top computer)
UF glue such as Cascamite or Bordens (for massively long open times for complex glue ups, moderate gap filling, lamination work, and veneering)
Epoxy (for larger gap filling, waterproof applications, and some specialised veneering that can't have any moisture added during the glue up)
Pu glue (for jig construction)
Hide glue (much stronger than people think and reversible)
Superglue (for **** ups!)

 

[Bremner]

I mainly use PVA 502, I buy it 5 litres at a time from tool station for about £13 and I've never had a problem. I used to use titebond and I did like it until read somewhere it was just normal PVA with a yellow dye in. I don't think that's strictly true there's probobly more to it than that but it stuck in my mind and I can't face buying it now.

 

[mr.alan.]

All depends on what wood you are gluing - Joints/Venner/ and conditions you are gluing up in and were is the piece going to be placed - indoor / out door. I like Hide glue for veneer - and PVA and Cascamite for joints-I have used Polyurethane glues too which I find are great for Joinery work exterior and dries really fast.

 

[LFS19]

Thanks for all the replies and links and so on - I didn't really realise the scope of the market for glue and for the various applications.

I'm mainly wanting to just glue joints really and to edge glue boards.

 

[RobinBHM]

I mainly use PVA 502, I buy it 5 litres at a time from tool station for about £13 and I've never had a problem. I used to use titebond and I did like it until read somewhere it was just normal PVA with a yellow dye in. I don't think that's strictly true there's probobly more to it than that but it stuck in my mind and I can't face buying it now.

Ive always thought titebond is an aliphatic glue not pva, but this thread in woodweb, seems to have carious opinions:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/C ... White.html

For tight fitting joints, standard pva is one of the strongest glues for internal work. I also understand that D4 pva is often used for joinery in large companies, here and in Europe.

Pva does have problems with cleaning up so may not be ideal for jobs that will be stained.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

One advantage/disadvantage of D4 is the grab time. It's quick - it depends what you're doing with it whether it's a plus or a minus.

 

[mr.alan.]

Thanks for all the replies and links and so on - I didn't really realise the scope of the market for glue and for the various applications.

I'm mainly wanting to just glue joints really and to edge glue boards.

Well Personally I would use PVA - good open time, Strong, dries clear, but best to make sure you remove any excess before it dries - oh and its and cheap! then again- Cascamite is a great option too..

 

[lurker]

Gorilla glue is nothing special.
Its twice as expensive because there is a massive advertising bill to pay.

 

[LFS19]

I mainly use PVA 502, I buy it 5 litres at a time from tool station for about £13 and I've never had a problem. I used to use titebond and I did like it until read somewhere it was just normal PVA with a yellow dye in. I don't think that's strictly true there's probobly more to it than that but it stuck in my mind and I can't face buying it now.

Ive always thought titebond is an aliphatic glue not pva, but this thread in woodweb, seems to have carious opinions:

http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/C ... White.html

For tight fitting joints, standard pva is one of the strongest glues for internal work. I also understand that D4 pva is often used for joinery in large companies, here and in Europe.

Pva does have problems with cleaning up so may not be ideal for jobs that will be stained.

I see, thanks for your response