What tool do I need?

[gus3049]

Mark out carefully
centre punch
pilot hole

Once you have done this the following holes will centre on the pilot hole

Enlarge hole with a drill to near the required size
ream out to the correct size

If you knew the exact size you could use a plain reamer but as you want to slowly enlarge and check as you go you might be better with a tapered reamer like I linked to earlier. I would buy 2 because as you get bigger the reamer may bottom out on the other side of the tube, you can chop the end of the reamer off with a grinder and carry on. I would advise using the reamer by hand but if you get inpatient you can put it in a drill.
The reason I suggest buying 2 is that if you cock it up you have one as a backup and they are useful to have around anyway.

The problem with a reamer is likely to be the depth so the tool bottoms out before the right size is reached. We are only talking about a whistle here which is why I suggested the countersink. I suppose he could be lucky and find a reamer that has the small end only fractionally smaller then the hole.

Hopefully, we will see the end result.

 

[DrPhill]

Mark out carefully
centre punch
pilot hole

Once you have done this the following holes will centre on the pilot hole

Enlarge hole with a drill to near the required size
ream out to the correct size

If you knew the exact size you could use a plain reamer but as you want to slowly enlarge and check as you go you might be better with a tapered reamer like I linked to earlier. I would buy 2 because as you get bigger the reamer may bottom out on the other side of the tube, you can chop the end of the reamer off with a grinder and carry on. I would advise using the reamer by hand but if you get inpatient you can put it in a drill.
The reason I suggest buying 2 is that if you cock it up you have one as a backup and they are useful to have around anyway.

The problem with a reamer is likely to be the depth so the tool bottoms out before the right size is reached. We are only talking about a whistle here which is why I suggested the countersink. I suppose he could be lucky and find a reamer that has the small end only fractionally smaller then the hole.

Hopefully, we will see the end result.

All good stuff. I have a multiple 'blade' countersink which might be useful, but I am not sure how to deal with the 45 degree hole edges (ideally they should be at right angles to the surface)..

'Only a whistle' is an understandable reaction here, but understates the importance of the item to me. :lol: The search for the perfect whistle could best be understood here by analogy to the search for the perfect plane......

And yes, if you folk really want, then I will post pictures of the end result (and music clips) but I will probably wait for my pillar drill. Also, if I decide this might be feasible I will first modify a cheaper plastic whistle to see if I like the extra hole.

You folk on this forum are all very helpful to and tolerant of a newbie. Thanks.

 

[Jacob]

.....Also, if I decide this might be feasible I will first modify a cheaper plastic whistle to see if I like the extra hole.

...

Won't you need an extra finger?

 

[gus3049]

'Only a whistle' is an understandable reaction here, but understates the importance of the item to me. :lol: The search for the perfect whistle could best be understood here by analogy to the search for the perfect plane......

And yes, if you folk really want, then I will post pictures of the end result (and music clips) but I will probably wait for my pillar drill. Also, if I decide this might be feasible I will first modify a cheaper plastic whistle to see if I like the extra hole.

You folk on this forum are all very helpful to and tolerant of a newbie. Thanks.

The 'only' comment was about the size, nothing to do with the value - monetary or personal - of the instrument. All my training is connected with the making and repair of musical instruments, string, brass and woodwind, so I understand the relative importance of stuff.

I did wonder about the 45 degree angle but it does depend on the wall thickness to a degree. It shouldn't hurt the function as the fingers should seal it OK but maybe the flare will improve the gas flow and you can modify all the rest too :lol:

I agree with the necessity of the pillar drill, its not worth the risk of trying something like this freehand.

 

[Oryxdesign]

The problem with a reamer is likely to be the depth so the tool bottoms out before the right size is reached.

No problem just chop the end off with a grinder

 

[DrPhill]

.....Also, if I decide this might be feasible I will first modify a cheaper plastic whistle to see if I like the extra hole.

...

Won't you need an extra finger?

I will use a thumb..... besides, a whistle normally has six finger holes, and my DIY has not cost a finger yet!

 

[DrPhill]

........................
The 'only' comment was about the size, nothing to do with the value - monetary or personal - of the instrument. All my training is connected with the making and repair of musical instruments, string, brass and woodwind, so I understand the relative importance of stuff.

I was trying to show light-heartedness - to a non-musician such obsessions must look a little dappy. Now I am not sure if you were taking my riposte lightly and returning in the same vein, or if you thought that I had taken umbrage. Never mind, we're good.

I did wonder about the 45 degree angle but it does depend on the wall thickness to a degree. It shouldn't hurt the function as the fingers should seal it OK but maybe the flare will improve the gas flow and you can modify all the rest too :lol:

I agree with the necessity of the pillar drill, its not worth the risk of trying something like this freehand.

I think that flare from the outside is considered counter-productive. I have never seen a whistle maker advertising such. Indeed many whistle makers emphasise their under-cut tone holes.

I am thinking now that the hole will be: punched, pilot drilled, drilled to minimum size, then countersunk to somewhat south of the desired note then carefully reamed (by hand). I will need to grind the reamer down to prevent it hitting the other side, but luckily, the friend who is giving me the pillar drill is giving me a bench grinder too.

 

[Oryxdesign]

The hand de burrer that blurk99 suggested will give you an undercut.

You might need an angle grinder with a cutting disc to trim the reamer

 

[DrPhill]

The hand de burrer that blurk99 suggested will give you an undercut.

Yes, some of those look very nice. Maybe over-spec for just the one job, but.........

You might need an angle grinder with a cutting disc to trim the reamer

I will put that on my get list.

 

[Jonzjob]

I think that if you tried to use a countersink the 45º angle of said reamer is going to cut the top part of the tube before it gets to the lower sides. You will finish up with an oval hole.

A Dremel with one of the very small stones or drum sanders in it would do the job. Or even with a dental burr, but you would have to be very carefull, slowly, slowly, catchie monkey?

 

[Oryxdesign]

I think that if you tried to use a countersink the 45º angle of said reamer is going to cut the top part of the tube before it gets to the lower sides. You will finish up with an oval hole.

A Dremel with one of the very small stones or drum sanders in it would do the job. Or even with a dental burr, but you would have to be very carefull, slowly, slowly, catchie monkey?

Good point

 

[bugbear]

This is called a "taper cutter", but we won't worry about reamer/cutter/drill distinctions here.

Draper 4mm - 24mm Taper Cutter

BugBear

 

[Jonzjob]

Won't that give a slightly less oval hole than a c/sink?

 

[DrPhill]

I think that if you tried to use a countersink the 45º angle of said reamer is going to cut the top part of the tube before it gets to the lower sides. You will finish up with an oval hole.

A Dremel with one of the very small stones or drum sanders in it would do the job. Or even with a dental burr, but you would have to be very carefull, slowly, slowly, catchie monkey?

Ah, yes, I remember - that happened when I made my own very large whistle out of 36mm plastic plumbing pipe. While not a disaster, it would look less than professional, would it not?

Drill: non-circular hole.
Countersink: non-circular hole.

So reamer it is. Tapered reamer cut to length with cutting disc in bench grinder.

 

[gus3049]

I was trying to show light-heartedness - to a non-musician such obsessions must look a little dappy. Now I am not sure if you were taking my riposte lightly and returning in the same vein, or if you thought that I had taken umbrage. Never mind, we're good.

Never took umbrage in me life guv - Mr Light-hearted me. We are indeed, good.

Drill: non-circular hole.
Countersink: non-circular hole.
So reamer it is. Tapered reamer cut to length with cutting disc in bench grinder.

Excellent - sorted then.

 

[Jacob]

Be interesting to hear the result.
There's probably a reason why a recorder has a thumb hole and a tin whistle does not. I guess it's to do with the bore and a 7th hole in a tin whistle won't be in tune across the range.

 

[DrPhill]

Be interesting to hear the result.

When/if I get the job done I will report back. Ideally all you will notice is that all C naturals in a tune sound as strongly as the rest of the notes. At present some C naturals are produced by an inferior method (forked fingering).

There's probably a reason why a recorder has a thumb hole and a tin whistle does not. I guess it's to do with the bore and a 7th hole in a tin whistle won't be in tune across the range.

The thumb hole on a recorder is closer to the mouth piece than any other tone hole. It is about the midpoint of the instrument and is used to force an octave change. The thumb hole on the whistle is approximately half way between the top two holes, and is used to provide provide an extra note (C natural when playing a D whistle).

The extra note allows a second major key (G on a D whistle). With these two major keys (and their associated minors) most of the folk repertoire is available. Without the thumb hole C natural is produced by half-holing (which I find difficult to do accurately) or by 'forked fingering' which is more accurate but which, on the whistle that I most like using, produces a weaker note with a different timbre.

An added advantage may be that the compromises that keep the second octave C# from being too sharp cause the first octave C# to be slightly flat. This means that harder breath pressure to sharpen the note resulting in a louder note. The open thumb hole will likely sharpen the first octave C# without the need for extra volume..

That is probably more than you wanted to know......

 

[Jacob]

.....
That is probably more than you wanted to know......

No not at all. Very interesting! I used to play whistle and recorder, currently having a bash on the banjo.

 

[bugbear]

@all: thanks, this is good stuff - it is making me think carefully about each stage in order to get the best chance of success.
(1) Marking out - masking tape and careful line drawing

You may (or may not) find this tip helpful; to draw a line along a cylinder, you can use a small piece of angle iron. This will sit and "self register" on the cylinder, making the marking task easy. "Back in the day" rather precise rules, looking just like angle iron, but rather better made, were available.

BugBear

 

[AndyT]

Yet another option which should work nicely on thin metal - a fine needle file - quite cheap and easy to buy:

The slight taper on a round one can make it work like a small reamer. If too long, you could snap the tip off to get the right diameter where you want it. Or you could use a small file in a larger hole to make an oval hole (would that help musically? I have no idea, but it could give a very minimal increase in the area.)

Also, a 'threesquare' (triangular) one will work like a slightly more aggressive reamer, with its three hard points scraping metal off as you twist it.

You will need to buy or make a handle to get a decent torque.