What species can i use??

[Will_Price]

Hello Everyone!
I need some advice on a project im taking on. Im copying a design for a new work bench from a really good book from the states, the design is 19th century french and requires quite alot of timber to build.
In the book the authour uses southern yellow pine which is apparantly one of the most common structural timbers in USA. In the book he advises buying 2" X 12" and ripping down the make a laminate block worktop and the same process for the legs. I need to find a timber AS CHEAP AS POSSIBLE. I would buy our structural timber common here but my boss seems to think it wont plane up nicely enough?...
Any advice?

 

[wizer]

Hi Will. I take it we are talking about Chris Shwarz book? Is it the Roubo? Ash is a good wood for workbenches. Beech is most common but seems like an unusual choice to me as it's prone to denting. If you are really looking to save money, then have you seen the Gluebo?

 

[L Harding]

Gluebo... ?

 

[wizer]

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/bl ... bench.aspx

Made from a form of plywood.

 

[ByronBlack]

Mine is made from Beech and is a tough work top- I haven't experienced denting as of yet.

Boz had a recent workbench build in the projects section worth looking at. He 'cheated' and laminated a solid beech kitchen worktop, it works out a cheapish way of doing it, and saves a lot of time.

Otherwise, you could go the route as favoured by many on here: multiple sheets of ply glued face to face, and capped with either tempered hardboard or MDF - which makes replacement easy.

 

[OPJ]

I don't see why you couldn't use European redwood (joinery-grade softwood - not to be confused with lightweight spruce/whitewood!!). It will dent easily and may have dead knots but, it is only a work bench. Southern yellow pine may costs around the double the price. It is a bit nicer to work but it will still dent.

Maple would be a very good choice, for durability and stability. Price isn't too bad compared to other hardwoods like oak but, I'd guess it's still high above your budget. As Tom says; although beech is a "traditional" choice, it is also a strange one - it's non-durable and it's not very stable, either. Ash isn't that durable either but it is strong and shouldn't split as badly or distort as beech can do.

 

[Chems]

Ash is actually stronger than beech by 20psi on the Janka scale so why aren't more made from ash?

 

[ondablade]

You guys are making me nervous about the beech i bought for my workbench, it's currently 'relaxing' in the workshop until i'm ready to start! Here's hoping that laminating the top boards on edge will tame it.

I'm not too sure what European redwood looks like, but i built a general purpose (not solely for woodworking) bench ten years ago from left over kiln dried top grade roofing timber - we call it 'white deal' over here, it's possibly what you call whitewood OPJ. It's 4 inches thick, and made up of about 3 planks 10in wide glued edge to edge.

I can confirm as you predict that despite having been kiln dried, planed flat, well varnished and bolted over steel cross pieces at about 3 ft centres that it warped quite enthusiastically....

 

[ByronBlack]

Ian, the beech will be fine. It's a common choice for workbenches - even for commercial outfits, it's a good wood. Yes, you have to dry it carefully, but once laminated it should be rock solid.

I've had my bench for about 3 years now, and I've yet to have to flatten it, it's very stable. Although, I wish I had made mine longer. If I make another, then I'll make it from beech.

Bare in mind that there is a different in characteristics between american and european beech - you can find more info via google.

 

[Chems]

I'll be building my bench from Beech, just to stick with the pack! Beech is a good bit heavier and you want heft so it doesn't move about when planing and stuff.

 

[Benchwayze]

You have a point Chems.

But rigidity also comes from the design of the 'undercarriage', as much as anything else; the stiffer the construction, the more rigid the bench.

My bench must be 50 years old and the undercarriage is Douglas fir. The legs are 4” x 4” and the end rails from 6” x 2". The top left corner bears against a buttress in my outer wall so no racking at all. The top is merely 4 laminated sheets of soft Luan, a total of 2" thick, badly dinted and needs renewing.

I am currently torn between Ash and a length of ready made Beech Kitchen worktop; I can cut and ‘fold’ this into 80mm thickness. As I shall probably just make a new top, price is less of a consideration and I have more options.

I see no problem using Southern Yellow Pine though, and a number of merchants in the UK stock it. If softwood tops are no problem, what about Parana Pine? Used in the 'Chris Schwartz' way, that would make a nice bench. A little harder and not too much dearer.

Regards

John

 

[OPJ]

You guys are making me nervous about the beech i bought for my workbench, it's currently 'relaxing' in the workshop until i'm ready to start! Here's hoping that laminating the top boards on edge will tame it.

That sounds like one of the best ways to build a bench top - buying a load of through-sawn stock, ripping it down and laminating the lengths face-to-face, so that you effectively get a "quarter-sawn" top! 8)

I would've done it this way but, when I built mine last summer, it was more economical to buy 9ft lengths of 3in wood than the 8ft of 2in they had, where my bench was to be 6ft long x 3ft high, if you see what I mean. I wouldn't recommend this though, as it can work out much more expensive, even for the sake of "only a couple of extra pounds per cubic foot"... :wink:

If you can find European steamed beech as well then, I think that would be an even better choice, as the steaming process apparently improves stability. Durability isn't much of an issue unless it's living outdoors (!) or if your workshop is prone to regular insect attacks!

 

[Sgian Dubh]

Ash is actually stronger than beech by 20psi on the Janka scale so why aren't more made from ash?

Probably because it's a coarse textured wood that attracts dirt into the porese and glue tends to get hung up in those open pores too.

Fine textured woods like beech and maple on the other hand tend to be easier to keep clean and provide a smoother surface.

These are relatively small things and I've seen workbenches made out of all sorts of woods, even various softwoods and exotics. In every case in my experience, as long as the support framework underneath is good and rigid, and the top either thick enough on its own or, if fairly thin, it's supported underneath in enough places that it doesn't flex and bounce in use the benches are perfectly adequate.

I think it's generally agreed that a light or pale coloured wood is preferable over something dark for the main work surface-- this just makes it generally easier to see what's on the bench, and helps keep the work area light rather than dark. Slainte.

 

[bugbear]

http://blog.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/Introducing+The+Gluebo+Workbench.aspx

Made from a form of plywood.

On a similar note, has anybody looked into sourcing glue-lam beams as a timber source for bench tops?

A typical workbench top is around 6 feet long x 2 feet wide
by 4" thick, and made from a hardwood; beech is common in the
UK, maple more prevalent for the USA.

It occurs to me that a suitably dimensioned
beech glulam beam could be simply sliced into 6 foot
length, and "secondarily" glued to quickly make
such a bench top

For example, a 24 foot x 6" deep by 4" thick
beam could be sliced into 4 6 foot lengths.

3 glue lines later, ya' got a (rather excellent) bench top.

BugBear

 

[joesoap]

Hi Will
For the top . Two lengths of standard stair stringer 10 3/4 x 1 3/8 s , dowelled , biscuted , doms , is a cheapo version . With alternate grain up grain down glued and cramped . Overlaid with whatever of your choice to bring it up to thickness . No machinery required .

Hope it helps .
Cheers !

 

[John. B]

I built mine over 20 years ago from spruce, made the side vice and faced the front with beech,
It has holes, dents and dirt but still very functional. 8)



John. B

 

[Tim Nott]

Just to get my two cent's worth in (these are Euro cents, so slightly more valuable than the US version) I bought both the Taunton books, having been using two 25mm planks of chestnut on trestles.
Top - maple sawn into strips and double biscuit jointed. Centre well removable chestnut, which is handy for fitting router table. Legs and rails - bfo ash. Took bloody ages to make. Loads of dog holes and a Veritas twin screw vise on on end and a Axi patternmakers vise on the side.

Got a few knocks and sawcuts now (carelessness) but still well pleased.

 

[Will_Price]

Thanks Everyone,
Im pretty much decided to go for a construction grade timber. I got my boss to call up for me so i get a better price so im looking at a grand total of about £140 which at the end of the day is cheaper than buying a ready made one and will be a fun project so once ive begged my heavily girlfrined for the cash im buying the wood and going for it!
Ill post a pic when im done!
Thanks again everyone.

 

[ByronBlack]

Thanks Everyone,
Im pretty much decided to go for a construction grade timber. I got my boss to call up for me so i get a better price so im looking at a grand total of about £140 which at the end of the day is cheaper than buying a ready made one and will be a fun project so once ive begged my heavily girlfrined for the cash im buying the wood and going for it!
Ill post a pic when im done!
Thanks again everyone.

I bet she speaks well of you too!!

 

[big soft moose]

so once ive begged my heavily girlfrined for the cash .

I'm sure it will be worth the weight :lol: