I'm going to make another infill plane. I fancy the older norris and spiers patterns, but don't want to make a dead copy at this point.
Last week, I received a norris 15 1/2 inch No 13 panel plane in the mail. It's a brute - an extremely thick lower part of the casting (perhaps approaching 3/8ths of an inch, and 8 1/2 pounds, but a little nose heavy.
I also want to make another wedge plane (you can make lever caps by hand (I don't have "machine tools"), and I will, but I like that the cross strap on a wedged plane looks a little different and in this case will invite the ability to file something interesting (like a cupid's bow or something else) (the lever cap does, too, if you go to the trouble of doing neat filework at the top and up the neck). And the wedge can be made into something interesting, also (scroll, etc, or scroll with a shoulder).
Seeing the distribution of the Norris 13 weight-wise makes me think that the same thing might do well with an extra inch on the rear so that the plane doesn't drag your hand down.
And lastly, I see the potential to make the sides into an elephant profile as my friend George has done on another plane, except in reverse (his elephant faced forward).
http://www.norrisplanes.com/norris-numb ... nel-plane/
I will be dovetailing it, of course, but unless it's brass-sided, it won't matter looks-wise, as we don't want to see the dovetails on the finished plane.
So, 16 1/2 inch plane, sort of like the no 13 with a bit more tail and the back profile of an elephant facing rearward. I'll try to do the woodwork a little more crisp than the average norris, too (which even in the older planes can be a bit funny sometimes). Any smart ideas?
A 2 1/2 inch double iron is de rigueur here, so not going to waver from that.
Last week, I received a norris 15 1/2 inch No 13 panel plane in the mail. It's a brute - an extremely thick lower part of the casting (perhaps approaching 3/8ths of an inch, and 8 1/2 pounds, but a little nose heavy.
I also want to make another wedge plane (you can make lever caps by hand (I don't have "machine tools"), and I will, but I like that the cross strap on a wedged plane looks a little different and in this case will invite the ability to file something interesting (like a cupid's bow or something else) (the lever cap does, too, if you go to the trouble of doing neat filework at the top and up the neck). And the wedge can be made into something interesting, also (scroll, etc, or scroll with a shoulder).
Seeing the distribution of the Norris 13 weight-wise makes me think that the same thing might do well with an extra inch on the rear so that the plane doesn't drag your hand down.
And lastly, I see the potential to make the sides into an elephant profile as my friend George has done on another plane, except in reverse (his elephant faced forward).
http://www.norrisplanes.com/norris-numb ... nel-plane/
I will be dovetailing it, of course, but unless it's brass-sided, it won't matter looks-wise, as we don't want to see the dovetails on the finished plane.
So, 16 1/2 inch plane, sort of like the no 13 with a bit more tail and the back profile of an elephant facing rearward. I'll try to do the woodwork a little more crisp than the average norris, too (which even in the older planes can be a bit funny sometimes). Any smart ideas?
A 2 1/2 inch double iron is de rigueur here, so not going to waver from that.