What hinge?

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HawkEye

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I have an MDF cabinet which I have made. Its all 18mm thick timber.

The problem I'm having is that I have a rebate which is 18x6 running along the sides of the carcass for the doors to fit in. I have tried placing some 18mm timber up against where the door is going to be but there is no clearance for the door to open. The door will open if it pivots on the corner of the shoulder line. What hinge will allow the door to open in this fashion? I can draw a picture if it helps.
 
An duel or overlap consealed hinge will allow for a 9mm rebate, if you then mount this on a +3mm mounting plate that will mean the door will overhang the edge by 6mm

Or a butt hinge but screwing into the side of MDF is not ideal

Jason
 
I don't want to rebate out anymore.



Here is a picture. Nothing I see seems to allow for this very simple function.
 
Half overlay hinge on a 3mm plate depending on the offset of the hole in the door which I'm expecting to be 4 or 5mm.
Simon
 
If you look at the centre diagram, the hinge has a 9.5mm overlap with a standard plate mounted on the inside of teh carcase, if you use a +3mm spaced plate and adjust the edge distance slightly you will get 5-6mm which will work with your rebate as me and simon have said

Jason
 
I would appreciate it if somone could draw over that picture to better illustrate the hinge because I can't figure out how it would function in the rebate
 
Just a bit of advice, that I know you're going to dislike me for, but It's something I learn't in the early stages of this trade. And it's whatever you're design is, always sort out the ironmongry aspects first, hinges, handles....etc.... Even test the ironmongery on scrap first, before doing the project.

Even the so called designer in the place I work don't follow this basic rule. Just the other day a multi-point locking system door had to be altered so much that it never matched the cutting list at all, that was just to make it work. They should have looked at the ironmongery first and then designed the door and framing!
 
I'm not sure I fully understand the problem. Your description sounds as though the door sits in the rebate whereas the picture suggests that it sits outside of the rebate.

In the case of the latter I would go for butt hinges (but as already mentioned screwing in to the side of MDF needs to be done carefully).

In the case of the former... I would still use butt hinges and chamfer the inside leading edge of the door to give enough clearance to open.
 
I would consider lipping the sides of the MDF with some softwood if you are screwing into the side. Take 10mm off all the sides and put a 10mm timber lipping on.
 
joiner_sim":4dkrrrgo said:
Just a bit of advice, that I know you're going to dislike me for, but It's something I learn't in the early stages of this trade. And it's whatever you're design is, always sort out the ironmongry aspects first, hinges, handles....etc.... Even test the ironmongery on scrap first, before doing the project.

Even the so called designer in the place I work don't follow this basic rule. Just the other day a multi-point locking system door had to be altered so much that it never matched the cutting list at all, that was just to make it work. They should have looked at the ironmongery first and then designed the door and framing!

Good advice that Simon
 
As I've said fropm the start 3mm plate & duel hinge if the door fits in the rebate, you may need to ease the back corner of the door slightly so it does not bind.

PICT0336.jpg

Jason
 
jasonB":3s7tkk8l said:
As I've said fropm the start 3mm plate & duel hinge if the door fits in the rebate, you may need to ease the back corner of the door slightly so it does not bind.

PICT0336.jpg

Jason

But that is not how the door sits in the rebate is it. You have the door right out on the front in that picture..
 

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