What accuracy from an EB HC260 planer/thicknesser.

[galleywood]

What have other users of this machine, and similar ones, achieved - particularly in thicknessing mode.

I have started to set mine up, having had it for several months whilst I cleared space to be able to operate it.

I have read other 'setup' posts and decided to check what I could achieve in thicknessing mode first before progressing to set up the tables.
My first trials with timberyard bought PAR pine is a 0.4mm run across the width of a 120mm board.

The thicknessing bed does not seem to be adjustable, so assuming that I could set the blades to compensate for this it would also mean shimming to correctly align the infeed and outfeed beds.

Do other members have experience of this that they can share please?

I have not used a planer thicknesser before - what types and sizes of timber should I practice on?

Regards

 

[Bodgers]

viewtopic.php?t=8424

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[SurreyHills]

Assuming you have the blades set correctly then you should be able to get slightly better than 0.4mm, maybe down to .2mm, but not much more. A quick way to check the blades are set correctly (At the same height) is the board should go through the thicknesser in a straight line, i.e not pulled to one side. On the thicknesser bed there is no adjustment other than the method I described in a previous post to get it level. The bed is a single piece of aluminium so you need to adjust the height one or more of the 4 columns to get it level. A much simpler alternative approach is to create a false bed out of MDF with blocks at each end to stop it getting pulled through as you thickness a piece of wood. Insert this on top of the metal bed adjust the thickness across the MDF board compensate for the 0.4mm difference you are currently seeing.


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[Togalosh]

I have recently bought a used machine & got great advice from Hemsby:

eb-hc260m-planer-thicknesser-set-up-manual-request-t93557.html

Once I got the dial indicator & holding tool (expensive but very well made) I found I had a greater difference than you have so I shimmed the drive side of the Rotor/Block (?) upwards by 1mm. I thought at 1st that this had done the trick nicely... but now that I am using it much more recently I find the machine vibrates more & throws the drive belt off every so often on start up. Ho hum.

I have been meaning to update that thread with my fettling but it seems there is more to do.. check the 2 pulley's alignment 1st I assume.

HTH
Togs

 

[galleywood]

Update

I have reduced the 'run' to 0,2mm by resetting the thicnessing bed in the way SurreyHills described - see link in Bodger's post.

I still have the option of using an MDF false bed if the situation changes.

Thanks to ll that sent posts.