Well played that man
- Thread starter Adam Pinson
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Yorkieguy
Established Member
Impressive!
Not wishing in any way to detract from that, I've turned a few examples of a 'Cube in a cube in a cube'. It only calls for two small platforms which fit into the toolpost of the lathe - one to accurately sand the cube to 2.25" and perfectly 90 degrees on all side. The second much narrower table on which to firmly rest the hollowing tools when hollowing, to avoid a catch. On each side, the first stage is to use the undercutting 'hook' tool to undercut the cube to form the larger internal cube. Next stage is to use the straight hollowing tool to create the surface of the small cube and to undercut the larger internal cube with the hook tool to form the face of the smallest cube. Next step to drill a 9mm hole into what will be the small cube. In any of this isn't done with precision, the holes in the two inner cubes will be off-centre.
The two hollowing tools are made by grinding old chisels to the required profile.
Five 'sacrificial' stepped wooden plugs are turned, and having done the hollowing on one side, a stepped 'plug' his inserted to support the two inner cubes to prevent them from breaking loose before all six sides have been hollowed out. The first two sides to be hollowed out are the end grain ones. When five sides have been hollowed out, the final side doesn't need a plug. When all six sides have been hollowed out, the five plugs can be removed and if the cubes have been accurately turned, all eight corners of each of the internal corners should break free with gentle finger pressure. Each of the eight internal corners will have a triangular 'web' - an area of waste which needs to be ground away through the large hole using a Dremel and burrs. The smaller cube should also break free.
I claim no credit for the design or process - the credit for that goes to Dave Springett. It was published in Woodturning magazine many years ago (Issue 127). A few pics attached. Someone at the top of their game would probably make one in 2 - 3 hours - it takes me all day. As with many things in life, the only time I think of doing it twice, is just before I've done it once!
The last two pics are of cubes in London Plane and Iroko.
They make an interesting 'conversation piece' and best of all, don't cost anything as offcuts of timber are used and a couple of old chisels. The most common response they evoke is 'I couldn't do that - I wouldn't have the patience' to which my tongue in cheek response is 'You don't think skill comes into it then'?
Hope that's of interest.
Not wishing in any way to detract from that, I've turned a few examples of a 'Cube in a cube in a cube'. It only calls for two small platforms which fit into the toolpost of the lathe - one to accurately sand the cube to 2.25" and perfectly 90 degrees on all side. The second much narrower table on which to firmly rest the hollowing tools when hollowing, to avoid a catch. On each side, the first stage is to use the undercutting 'hook' tool to undercut the cube to form the larger internal cube. Next stage is to use the straight hollowing tool to create the surface of the small cube and to undercut the larger internal cube with the hook tool to form the face of the smallest cube. Next step to drill a 9mm hole into what will be the small cube. In any of this isn't done with precision, the holes in the two inner cubes will be off-centre.
The two hollowing tools are made by grinding old chisels to the required profile.
Five 'sacrificial' stepped wooden plugs are turned, and having done the hollowing on one side, a stepped 'plug' his inserted to support the two inner cubes to prevent them from breaking loose before all six sides have been hollowed out. The first two sides to be hollowed out are the end grain ones. When five sides have been hollowed out, the final side doesn't need a plug. When all six sides have been hollowed out, the five plugs can be removed and if the cubes have been accurately turned, all eight corners of each of the internal corners should break free with gentle finger pressure. Each of the eight internal corners will have a triangular 'web' - an area of waste which needs to be ground away through the large hole using a Dremel and burrs. The smaller cube should also break free.
I claim no credit for the design or process - the credit for that goes to Dave Springett. It was published in Woodturning magazine many years ago (Issue 127). A few pics attached. Someone at the top of their game would probably make one in 2 - 3 hours - it takes me all day. As with many things in life, the only time I think of doing it twice, is just before I've done it once!
The last two pics are of cubes in London Plane and Iroko.
They make an interesting 'conversation piece' and best of all, don't cost anything as offcuts of timber are used and a couple of old chisels. The most common response they evoke is 'I couldn't do that - I wouldn't have the patience' to which my tongue in cheek response is 'You don't think skill comes into it then'?
Hope that's of interest.
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Adam Pinson
Established Member
Also very impressive, that takes some serious patience, maybe one day I'll attempt thatImpressive!
Not wishing in any way to detract from that, I've turned a few examples of a 'Cube in a cube in a cube'. It only calls for two small platforms which fit into the toolpost of the lathe - one to accurately sand the cube to 2.25" and perfectly 90 degrees on all side. The second much narrower table on which to firmly rest the hollowing tools when hollowing, to avoid a catch. On each side, the first stage is to use the undercutting 'hook' tool to undercut the cube to form the larger internal cube. Next stage is to use the straight hollowing tool to create the surface of the small cube and to undercut the larger internal cube with the hook tool to form the face of the smallest cube. Next step to drill a 9mm hole into what will be the small cube. In any of this isn't done with precision, the holes in the two inner cubes will be off-centre.
The two hollowing tools are made by grinding old chisels to the required profile.
Five 'sacrificial' stepped wooden plugs are turned, and having done the hollowing on one side, a stepped 'plug' his inserted to support the two inner cubes to prevent them from breaking loose before all six sides have been hollowed out. The first two sides to be hollowed out are the end grain ones. When five sides have been hollowed out, the final side doesn't need a plug. When all six sides have been hollowed out, the five plugs can be removed and if the cubes have been accurately turned, all eight corners of each of the internal corners should break free with gentle finger pressure. Each of the eight internal corners will have a triangular 'web' - an area of waste which needs to be ground away through the large hole using a Dremel and burrs. The smaller cube should also break free.
I claim no credit for the design or process - the credit for that goes to Dave Springett. It was published in Woodturning magazine many years ago (Issue 127). A few pics attached. Someone at the top of their game would probably make one in 2 - 3 hours - it takes me all day. As with many things in life, the only time I think of doing it twice, is just before I've done it once!
The last two pics are of cubes in London Plane and Iroko.
They make an interesting 'conversation piece' and best of all, don't cost anything as offcuts of timber are used and a couple of old chisels. The most common response they evoke is 'I couldn't do that - I wouldn't have the patience' to which my tongue in cheek response is 'You don't think skill comes into it then'?
Hope that's of interest.
