Weatherproofing a Shed

[BearTricks]

The weather is supposed to be nice this weekend so I was thinking of varnishing my shed before I put it together.

The shed is ex display (so worked out cheaper than building a new one) and varnished with what I think is Ronseal 10 Year Antique Pine.

I’d like the shed to be bomb proof. I saw Sika Wood Preserver for £30 at Screwfix which should cover the area but I’m a bit confused as to whether it can be applied over a previously varnished surface and/or whether I’d need to paint or varnish over the top of it, or if it’s okay on it’s own.

As with everything I’m interested in cost effectiveness but more than anything I want it to last.

What’s the best way to weatherproof? The base is up on pressure treated barers, on a concrete base but I’d also be interested in ideas to make that last as long as possible (someone suggested yacht varnish).

Thanks.

 

[Jones]

Preservative treatments soak into the timber and prevent fungal decay and insect attack, they need to be applied to bare timber and as they don't penetrate all the way through need to be reapplied to cut surfaces. Paint,stains and varnishes sit on the surface and don't penetrate far, they protect by preventing water absorption and providing UV protection. So preservative over stain won't work. Make sure ground contact bearers are class 4 treated or use recycled plastic ones.

 

[thetyreman]

you could look into shou sugi ban, as an alternative to preserver.

 

[Jameshow]

I'd use something like sadolin classic over lightly sanded ronseal.

That's what I'm puttng on a lodge this weekend!

As to the base I'd make sure they don't get damp. Put them on engineering bricks or dpc.

Make sure they are well underneath the cladding if not coat them with wood stain too..

Finally put guttering on it. Keep the roof water off the walls.

 

[Bingy man]

I recently made a base for my greenhouse using reclaimed fence post approx 140 x 90 mm . I used ever build clear wood preserver that can be over painted after 24 hours with paint , varnish etc . The base of the timber in contact with the concrete base was the given 2 coats of black bitumen ( 24 hrs apart ) for added protection I also screwed 10 mm plastic spacers on top of the bitumen to provide an air gap . The other 3 sides of the timber were given 3 coats of yatch varnish 24 hrs apart . Sounds a bit o t t but I want it to last as long as possible

 

[HOJ]

The shed is ex display

and varnished with what I think is Ronseal 10 Year Antique Pine

you could look into shou sugi ban, as an alternative to preserver.

Not sure about how you'd do that.

 

[Dave Moore]

The weather is supposed to be nice this weekend so I was thinking of varnishing my shed before I put it together.

The shed is ex display (so worked out cheaper than building a new one) and varnished with what I think is Ronseal 10 Year Antique Pine.

I’d like the shed to be bomb proof. I saw Sika Wood Preserver for £30 at Screwfix which should cover the area but I’m a bit confused as to whether it can be applied over a previously varnished surface and/or whether I’d need to paint or varnish over the top of it, or if it’s okay on it’s own.

As with everything I’m interested in cost effectiveness but more than anything I want it to last.

What’s the best way to weatherproof? The base is up on pressure treated barers, on a concrete base but I’d also be interested in ideas to make that last as long as possible (someone suggested yacht varnish).

Thanks.

Hi,
For bare oak sleepers I have used Roxil. It’s like a milky solution , goes on easy and meant to last 10 yrs. doesn’t appear to change the colour of the wood and water seems to just dry off and the surface seems unaffected.