Wax?

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Hallelujahal

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Lincolnshire
Hi folks a mate gave me some logs yesterday from a newly taken down Ash tree. I spent most of yesterday chopping them up into sizeable pieces for my lathe. However, I’m wanting to seal the ends with some kind of wax. Any recommendations and more importantly where to get it from here in 🇬🇧?
Thanks, Al
 
I just collect old candles.....free everywhere.....most are glad to give em away.....
I just leave em in the sun for an hour.....36-38*deg in the shade yesterday.....

paint even when stored in a cool garage goes all gooey......have tried a splash of thinners on top and turned the can over....still no good....
only buy enough to do the job now unless say new 750ml cans are left unopened....
got 2 cans from Lidil, light grey, primer /undercoat/semigloss all in one....had a scruffy gate for a try...
knocked off the scaby bits and a quick sand down......
did what it said on the tin...looks real good covers well and flows.......750ml +€7,50....paint shop a bit more than double.....
I will def buy more......
Hammerite is now useless........ast time I needed something like that I bought Screwfix's own brand....no idea now, long time ago....
also thier decking stain/finish is excellent.....(col, light teak) €12 for 2litre.....Sikkens is almost €50....
as good as Sikkens I doubt it but plenty good enough for here.....
just sayin.....
 
I use IKEA candles, they sell bundles for only a few pounds. Rub one over the end grain covering as much as you can then use a heat gun to melt it so it flows into the grain. If you’re done a good job then the wax will go clear. You can also rub the candle again once the wood is hot to get a thicker finish.
 
I seem to recall someone using an old slow cooker which was kept purposely for melting wax into which they dipped the ends of their logs. Much quicker & easier if you have quite a few to do. Larger ones had to have the melted wax poured or brushed on.
 
Make sure it doesn't end up going mouldy, so you'll need to ensure that there is a really good flow of air around the log.

I bought some boxwood off that 'Bloke', you know the one. He'd dipped everything in wax and the stuff was going blue/green as it had a really high moisture content. As I'd spent £500 on mouldy wood, it went straight back at his expense.

Apparently I didn't know anything about wood and that it was a grain feature.

Jeez, what a berk!
 
I used candle wax pearls bought from fleabay cheaply heated in a roasting tin (caution) on a single ring electric heater but I can vouch for the Chestnut end seal. It's much easier but pricey.
 
+1 for PVA I've been using it to seal good sized ash spindle and bowl blanks which are drying very quickly in the current weather. Not one split so far and moisture reduced from 26% to 15%
As I use PVA anyway in the day to day it's not am extra product and bought in bulk
 
I have used pva when it had reached its use by date. Any old paint I had around at the time and am now most of the way through a 4ltr can of end grain sealer. I cant say the sealer does a better job than paint or pva. It stays sticky and never hardens which is kind of messy so when its all done Ill be going back to old paint and pva.
Regards
John
 
wrt to PVA here do you have to use a waterproof one or just the cheapest? I also have some old Titebonds that could be used up but only Titebond 11 is PVA, can I assume 1 and 111 are fine also as are 'similar'.
 
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Small camping gas stove and an old Turkey roasting pan for melting old candles( ask the Vicar at your local church,they use a fair few and our Vicar was only to happy to save the used bits in a tub,works a treat no mess no fuss (y)
 
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